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My 1999 Defender TD5 90 was beginning to look a little tired, it's been my runabout for over 5 years and after a lot of hard winters up north - it's definitely suffered. :oops:

With the Defender production coming to a halt soon, I've decided to create my own tribute to the Land Rover itself. To take the most iconic elements from previous Land Rover vehicles and combine them with the Defender to produce my own ideal Land Rover. I was a little underwhelmed by the Land Rover heritage special edition, so in effect, this is my interpretation of that concept. Any work carried out, the goal is to make it better than factory wherever possible.

I've been busy filming videos on the build too, you can watch how things have progressed so far:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLhy-5DHZzPfkCpshOSByd7vQhEXkyfN6y

So, I found a small lock-up in early 2014, it had everything I needed (room for 2 Landy's, plus space for tools and body panels e.t.c).



I started stripping down the Defender in January of that year. Then, my parents had their car stolen from their drive, so the Land Rover was hastily rebuilt and loaned to them for several months.

After getting it back in one piece, I began removing panels (again) and assessing the general condition:



After painting the vehicle with Plastidip to use as a wedding car, I had to remove the film first.



Then began removing panels, when removing panels, you slowly reveal hidden corrosion and rust :S



In the meantime, I bought the wife let me purchase this 110 Puma, which has been a fantastic Land Rover!



Removing panels like the roof and wings is very quick and good for morale - progress is rapid at this stage. Most of the panels are in good condition, the roof will be replaced with a soft top so I'll lose my webasto sun roof :( But gain a canvas top. :thumbsup:



The sunroof was fitted at Land Rover Special vehicles - the 90 was originally owned by the National Grid who would drive up and down power grids with a hefty thermal imaging camera poking our the roof.

It was also used as a driver training vehicle, shown here at 2 Dales 4x4 training centre in Derbyshire. Apparently, as it had road tyres fitted, the instructors preferred this Land Rover over others available, it helped install off-road driving techniques.



The windscreen surround and hard top sides are gone! The whole lot will be stripped back so I can paint them later.I also spent time carefully drilling out rivets so I can get the capping galved. Upon refitting, I'm going to take measures prevent galvanic reactions from taking place ever again!



Then, the gearbox and engine needed to come out. The TD5 unit we have is low mileage and a really sound power plant. I love them! My plan is give this a good clean, perhaps a tasteful tune by Alive Tuning but that is all by way of modifications.





Then, the tub was removed, along with the bulkhead. The chassis was shifted to the side of the workshop to give me a little space.

I then began experimenting with electrolysis to remove rust. My experiment was working well, until the power supply exploded! Will come back to that at some point:

normal_Screen Shot 2015-09-23 at 10.20.39.jpg

Underbody components were as expected for a 16 year old Landy - these are all at the shot blasters along with the bullhead as we speak.



Then, it's time to start rebuilding! A shiny new galv chassis came by way of Richards Chassis at Doncaster. I've been very impressed with the build quality and finish this chassis! Top notch product, should mean this Land Rover lasts a long time.



This was promptly sprayed black using a T-Wash solution, followed by etch primer and then an acrylic based top coat from Frost Autos! Looks very good now! I'm aiming for a factory finish so this extra work was worth the effort



And that brings you all up to press, with the chassis painted - I'm hoping to get the whole lot built by January 2016. I'm carrying out any work I can in the shop, including a paint job, so stay tuned!

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here's what I got up to on wednesday:



Using a twisted wire cup, started removing the worse of the rust. Really impressed with the cups, they work pretty quickly! A friend removed the superpro bushes using threaded bar - as they are a one piece construction, you'd need an 8" vice and suitable drifts e.t.c.

Today, I'm hoping to go collect my bulkhead and axles: here's a sample from the video I shot whilst I was there on Monday



It's brought it up lovely! Much less welding needed than I thought, then off to galvanisers :shock:
 

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More progress made, a little gutted that my axles and bullhead won't be finished till next week - could slow me down a bit. I had help off my mate last night, but we didn't have tonnes to do.



The gearbox crossmember is in. These require a slight spreading of the chassis. I do not like farm jacks but it's all that was to hand, so packing it out with wood to protect the chassis and one man operating the jack whilst another hammers the gearbox in. The ends we're coated with grease to make the job a bit easier. Glad to be able to put the farm jack away again, no incidents :thumbsup:



I took delivery of this fantastic bit of kit from SIP Industrial products. It cut right through the CV shaft grease and means they are ready for rebuilding.



I've filled it with paraffin for now, am waiting on some proper parts washer fluid for items I want to paint afterwards.

The rear upper link arms still had metaplastic bushes fitted. These were totally shot, they were burned out:



Then it's a case of cleaning off all the cast parts, going from this:



Using a twisted wire cup



Was a late night for me. Here's how they looked afterwards. I'l treat them to some anti-rust agent then etch prime and paint them satin black to match. There'll be no blingy bits underneath.



Also, couldn't wait to start fitting new bits and bobs, so....



I'm going with a standard suspension set-up.
 

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Episode 05 is out here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTuVt1WY3E4

So, since the last update, the following has happened.

After giving the parts a thorough clean, using a combination of wire brushing, degreasing and the parts washer:

Screen-Shot-2015-09-30-at-08.24.33.jpg

Screen-Shot-2015-09-30-at-08.35.38.jpg

The items were then masked up:

Screen-Shot-2015-09-30-at-08.40.45.jpg

Hung up for painting on an industrial clothing rail:

Screen-Shot-2015-09-30-at-08.43.01.jpg

Or slotted into some holes we drilled in a palette for things like the arms:

Screen-Shot-2015-09-30-at-08.44.57.jpg

And hit with some etch primer:

Screen-Shot-2015-09-30-at-08.46.33.jpg

Then, all the fixings on the chassis added so far were treated with M1 Corrosion protector (like ACF50, but cheaper)

Screen-Shot-2015-09-30-at-08.50.08.jpg

Fitted the bump stops:

Screen-Shot-2015-09-30-at-08.48.04.jpg

And today I can go collect the bulkhead and axles!
 

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Righto, things happened yesterday :thumbsup:

Screen Shot 2015-10-01 at 08.45.17.jpg

Collected the bulkhead and axles form the shot blasters. The bulkhead has come up very nice! Not as much welding needed as I thought so well worth having it blasted.

Screen Shot 2015-10-01 at 08.48.31.jpg

That's not to say I got off welding completely, both pillars will need to be replaced. Then once it's cleaned up, a jig will be welded up and sent to the galvanisers.

Screen Shot 2015-10-01 at 08.52.38.jpg

Here, all the underbody parts that prepped are getting a top coat of satin black like the chassis. These have cured to a pleasing finish. The masking trick worked perfectly :D

Screen Shot 2015-10-01 at 08.55.52.jpg

Screen Shot 2015-10-01 at 08.59.00.jpg

Then once fully cured, the parts are packed up safely until I need them - I'm trying to prevent accidental damage

Screen Shot 2015-10-01 at 09.00.09.jpg

Finally, the axles had some final prep for painting - I'll hit those with etch primer e.t.c as before. I'll then clean the internals throughly and the final drive case - bolt the lot back together and paint it!

Screen Shot 2015-10-01 at 09.21.26.jpg

This is how the everything looks so far, great finish from the blasters - who've recommended that I hit everything with 60 - 80 grit paper. I'll see if it seems necessary.
 

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Wow! Really great rebuild. Shame to see the Rover Chrome on the chassis covered with black paint but it looks like it came out great.

I really wish I had the level of patience to put freshly painted parts into boxes but I am a spaz in the garage so things get tossed all over and subsequently get a nick here and there.

Keep the updates coming!
 

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Wow! Really great rebuild. Shame to see the Rover Chrome on the chassis covered with black paint but it looks like it came out great.

I really wish I had the level of patience to put freshly painted parts into boxes but I am a spaz in the garage so things get tossed all over and subsequently get a nick here and there.

Keep the updates coming!
Thanks Don,

I made a video showing the galv painting process and discussing why I did so:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFyhIsRzvUY
 

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Thanks Don, I made a video showing the galv painting process and discussing why I did so: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFyhIsRzvUY
Great watch winton - thanks for sharing the video.

I certainly agree with the reasons for why to paint over a galvanized chassis and parts and the end product looks very good. I just don't have the patience and to be honest wanted to bolt things to my frame right away, haha.
 

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Any one know what the North American equivalent of Modrant T Wash is? That product is made in the UK, pretty sure it's not available over here. Is it just any Phosphoric Etch and Prep liquid?
 

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Any one know what the North American equivalent of Modrant T Wash is? That product is made in the UK, pretty sure it's not available over here. Is it just any Phosphoric Etch and Prep liquid?
This article is by the American Galvanisers Association and uses US terminology:

http://www.galvanizeit.org/images/uploads/articles/paintsteel.pdf

I've heard a few people having problems finding the right solution. This site simply states to use a mild alkaline solution:

Preparing HDG for Paint | American Galvanizers Association

I suppose a diluted alkaline floor cleaner would work, provided it has no additives.

Other options are to have it shot blasted (profiled), leave it outside for 6 months to weather (the galv will accept paint more readily) or have it powder coated - which will give a very neat finish.
 

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Great question on painting galvanized metal. Timely. Thanks for the links. I'd only found this: http://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/ask-sherwin-williams/problem-solver/peeling-cracking/peeling-from-galvanized-metal/ Also read that white vinegar can be used. Regardless of substance seems to be rubber glove time! Chemical make up if mordant solution revealed in their msds sheet http://www.coo-var.co.uk/downloads/spec-sheets/04410847.pdf
Plus this. http://www.house-painting-advice.com/etching-metal.html
 

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Any one know what the North American equivalent of Modrant T Wash is? That product is made in the UK, pretty sure it's not available over here. Is it just any Phosphoric Etch and Prep liquid?
PPG DX Metal Treatments, DX579 followed by DX520. For both, scuff with scotchbrite 7447 or similar. It will turn your nice shiny galvanizing into something that looks like it was on a bonfire.

http://us.ppgrefinish.com/getmedia/9A45C2E8-C637-4FB4-8C84-3B734437599B/02/p-226_dx_metal_treatment_2-13.pdf

Cheers
Jason
 

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Any one know what the North American equivalent of Modrant T Wash is? That product is made in the UK, pretty sure it's not available over here. Is it just any Phosphoric Etch and Prep liquid?
It is not just prep and etch. Prep and etch is 33% phosphoric acid only. Mordant t wash has some kind of metal added to form a different metal oxide on the surface. Not sure what that other metal is.

------ Follow up post added October 2nd, 2015 09:28 AM ------

No. The purpose of the phosphoric acid is not to remove the zinc oxide layer. In fact, the solubility of zinc oxide in phosphoric acid very low.

The purpose of the phosphoric acid is to create a zinc phosphate layer on unreacted zinc. This is why you have to abrade the surface of weathered zinc first.
 

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Ok, so Episode 06 is out now:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AAGJPHGHvE

Here's what I've been up to over the last week. I sold my 110 for a start, which is partly why I've had no time to be posting :thumbsup:

Screen-Shot-2015-10-08-at-07.37.51.jpg

Took the opportunity of perhaps the last bit of good weather to fit a weather sealing strip, should stop the dust blowing under the door in the hard winters we get. :mrgreen:

I then prepped the axles for painting, removing the shot blasting material from the inside of the axles - this would likely make an aggressive grinding paste if there were any left inside.

Screen-Shot-2015-10-08-at-10.40.13.jpg

The shot used was an iron oxide of some sort, but was coated on in the intervals of the axle. To remove, I gave the whole lot a through wash with chassis detergent and a sponge.

Screen-Shot-2015-10-08-at-10.44.55.jpg

Placing a scaffold pole through the axle tubes or even bolting some old stub axles on lets you easily rotate the axle on the stands.

Screen-Shot-2015-10-08-at-10.47.10.jpg

The axles then needed drying completely, before using a solvent soaked rag to clean the internals and outside. The axles were then spotlessly clean, took an hour per axle though :(

Screen-Shot-2015-10-08-at-10.50.08.jpg

There will be no contamination of the diff oil now!

Screen-Shot-2015-10-08-at-10.51.35.jpg

The diff studs were refitted, ready for the final drive casing.

Screen-Shot-2015-10-08-at-10.53.02.jpg

The final drive casing mating surface after clean up to take RTV sealant.

Screen-Shot-2015-10-08-at-10.54.01.jpg

RTV, adding the bits before cinching those down and torqueing up.

After everything is securely sealed up, I can clean the diff casing - preventing the crud falling into the axle or onto the diff.

Then, those were solvent cleaned, etch primed, left to cure and finally painted in satin black

Screen-Shot-2015-10-08-at-11.18.35.jpg
 

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Whilst they dried, I began popping bushes back in. You can fiddle around popping them in with a vice or similar. I found it easier to secure the arm in the vice, then use a large M12 bolt with some thick washers on to pull it through.

Screen-Shot-2015-10-08-at-11.20.49.jpg

This would work really well if you had to do this at the roadside, a handy homemade 'tool'.

Screen-Shot-2015-10-08-at-11.22.00.jpg

It can also be used to pull the inner race through :thumbsup:
 

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXJ2gZGAUoI

The axles are painted! And looking superb! Love the Frost Chassis paint :thumbsup:



Also, purchased a printed TD5 Defender manual with the 300TDi and Electrical supplements, pricey but worth it for a job like this.



Picked up a new A frame Fulcrum bracket with the ball joint pressed in, saves me the hassle as I don't have a press and these aren't too pricey to buy pre-done.



That was all bolted together, using genuine bolts just to be safe.



I applied copper slip liberally - I don't want any trouble if I ever need to disassemble these parts.



I then bolted the brackets into place, the manual says to not torque everything down till it's in place



The A Frame was then lifted into place and nipped up, but not fully, I'll do that when the axle is in place.



Also bolted on the damper brackets, these ones are not handed, but the manual appears to show them as though they are.



I took the chance this week to set-up the shot blasting cabinet. This one came from Frost, they are a good company to work with and have a lot of stuff that's of interest to vehicle restorers. I'm running the cabinet with recycled (crushed) glass - it's cheap at around £5 per 25kg.



The cabinet has been completely indispensable. Rather than having to replace all those little brackets that quickly add-up the costs - I've been ablate last them, restoring them to as new condition. It's brilliant. I'm going to refurb the callipers using this cabinet :thumbsup:

Here's a before and after (needs a little more blasting, but this was about 1 minutes work)

 
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