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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My recently rebuilt 90 has a K&N air filter because the original filter would not fit easily with MoD AC fitted.
The connection from my snorkel hose to the K&N filter has no 'clips' or 'lips' that help the two disconnected parts shown in the photo below hold together. The connection comes apart on occasion (not infrequently) when driving and I can easily hear the difference. I do actually take this offroad and would hate to actually have water ingress issues because I did not get this sorted beforehand. Any thoughts/suggestions on how I might join these two in a way that holds them together but is not so rigid/hard that it causes problems? Silicone may not be strong enough to hold and gorilla glue may be too stiff/hard. Perhaps I'm overthinking this.

463301
 

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That k&n Apollo is probably a knockoff and the legit one isn't rated high enough cfm for a turbo TDI.

Most peeps have this issue with it and just gorilla glue it back together

For these reasons I went with the spectre 4in inlet aluminum inline filter
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That k&n Apollo is probably a knockoff and the legit one isn't rated high enough cfm for a turbo TDI.

For these reasons I went with the spectre 4in inlet aluminum inline filter
Interesting. OK. Sounds like whether a knockoff or not, you are saying the Apollo does not pass enough cfm for a 300tdi? I have 2 questions then:
  1. What cfm am I looking for for my engine? I'll also note that when I look at sites to order either of these (Apollo or Spectre) I don't see any specs on their cfm. Where do you find all of this info? I feel like I'm reasonably adept at Googlin' but the fact that some of this info is so difficult to find baffles me. This calculator suggests I need ~400-550 cfm (@RPM 3-4k). If this is correct, I'd still like to confirm the specs of the Spectre are in line with this.
  2. On the Spectre, any reason to favor the 865-9831 vs the 865-9832?
 

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The 4in inlet specte is well over what we need the 3in is just too small . I did the math awhile ago but don't have numbers.

The part numbers you list one is for the 4-in and one is just for an air filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't think so...
See links below. The rear end (outlet) seems to differ among these two 4" housings. They have different dimensions as well, though the in/out are both 4".
865-9831
865-9832
 

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I must have fat fingered the numbers. The larger one has a larger center diameter and filter and a higher rating.

The bullet shaped one was plenty if I recall around 600cfm , even for my 2.8l. I mounted it with a quick fist
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bullet ordered @Naplm00. Thanks again for the assist.
Though I'll be trying to figure out what fitting with a quick fist means until I get it in there. Was it his fat fingers or a mechanical reference I'm not aware of. Hah!
 

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A quick fist is an adjustable rubber clamp that you can bolt to something. Quick fist is the brand name
 

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Nope will work just fine. That being said the stock airbox will offer better filtration and be much quieter.

I used this due to fitment/packaging problems
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@Naplm00 I got mine in today. Do you mind sharing how you fit to the 4" openings on this? Not sure if you are running a snorkel, but my snorkel out -> filter housing is all what I'm guessing is 3".
On the back side of the filter, my Allisport hose looks to also be 3". Is there a 3"-4" adapter you used that 'sticks' in place?
 

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My turbo is 2in inlet. I did a 2-in to 3in silicone adapter then a piece of 3in pipe (exhaust or intercooler will work) then a 3in to 4in silicone adapter. I used pegasus racing flexible wire reinforced hose for connections.

Do not run your engine with the snorkel hooked up all the time. It seriously degrades performance due to the extremely long intake path. Only hook up your snorkel when it is dusty or fording

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Dang it is clean under there @Naplm00. I've got less than 10k miles on my nut & bolt rebuild and not even close to that clean. Admittedly, 6k of those are miles to Mexico and back. Phew, but I'm realizing it being clean will greatly aid in identifying issues...just not sure how to keep it looking like that.
 

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Down here Naplm00, the guys that ran the flexible wire hose on their 4bd1t's found the Donaldson airfilter indicator would set off all the time, didn't happen when going to silicon bends and pipe however. Have you done any tests on this?

Sent from my SM-A526B using Tapatalk
 

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Down here Naplm00, the guys that ran the flexible wire hose on their 4bd1t's found the Donaldson airfilter indicator would set off all the time, didn't happen when going to silicon bends and pipe however. Have you done any tests on this?

Sent from my SM-A526B using Tapatalk
No no test besides just hooking it up. I talked to Pegasus and they said that it's just fine to use this for the intake side

The reality is though the only reason I put this on the truck is because originally I just had a gigantic cone filter on the end of the turbo. It was so ear piercingly loud that I had to put an intake system on it. It's still loud but at least manageable now..

I may in the future move to hard pipe for the entire intake path to quiet it down even further.

The turbo is a 2256 sized Audi compressor housing with a Mercedes VKLR ceramic bearing liquid-cooled/oil lubricated center and a BMW turbine housing. I have no idea why but it's the loudest turbo I've ever used. It's insanely efficient and jumps from 10 to 35 PSI in a heartbeat it's just super super loud.
 

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Dang it is clean under there @Naplm00. I've got less than 10k miles on my nut & bolt rebuild and not even close to that clean. Admittedly, 6k of those are miles to Mexico and back. Phew, but I'm realizing it being clean will greatly aid in identifying issues...just not sure how to keep it looking like that.
There's only about 2,000 mi on this motor. Last motor had about 600k and looked absolutely nothing like this lol

This is the first motor that I decided to paint the aluminum as well.. keeps a cleaner much longer
 
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