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Discussion Starter #1
I'm wanting to start my interior roll cage this week and I've been looking for ideas. I ran into a bit of a problem where my front seats are too wide to run down to the second row floor like I had planned so I either have to run a 60-65" span to the front loop from the cargo area or somehow tie into the B-pillar. Looking for ideas and pictures if you have any. I'm using 2"x0.120 DOM steel tube, I have about 70' of it.


I have a picture of how I want the rear two loops and how I'll run it down the front but the center is my main problem. It's more for added safety than it is for extreme offroading.


Thanks,
Sean
 

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I'm wanting to start my interior roll cage this week and I've been looking for ideas. I ran into a bit of a problem where my front seats are too wide to run down to the second row floor like I had planned so I either have to run a 60-65" span to the front loop from the cargo area or somehow tie into the B-pillar. Looking for ideas and pictures if you have any. I'm using 2"x0.120 DOM steel tube, I have about 70' of it.


I have a picture of how I want the rear two loops and how I'll run it down the front but the center is my main problem. It's more for added safety than it is for extreme offroading.


Thanks,
Sean
Hey Sean, looking to do the same on my 109, and have started the search. I'll post up what I find, when I find, as I go along. Previous owner of my 109 installed Disco I seats, with electric motors and heat, so I'm probably dealing with the same width issues as you are.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Can anyone tell me what thickness steel is normally used on the mount plates. I have 1/4" that seems like overkill so I was going to go buy some 3/32". 1/8" would be easier to work with but seems a bit light.


Anyway......I did find this:


"3. Each mounting plate shall be at least 0.080†(2.03 mm) thick if welded

and ³/� � †(0.1875â€, 4.75 mm) thick if bolted. A minimum of three (3)

bolts per plate is required for bolted mounting plates."



Thanks in advance,
Sean
 

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I have aftermarket seats in my truck that interfered with the Safety Devices B hoop. Since my seats were on custom rails to begin with, I just offset both seats towards center on new mounts. I still had enough room for a center cubby.

Don’t forget to run some roll bar pads.

I’ll look for some pictures.
 

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If you don't fully triangulate the hoops, you might as well not even bother with a cage.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you don't fully triangulate the hoops, you might as well not even bother with a cage.



Could you give me a little more on this? Are you talking about an X-brace in the hoop?


I look at the exterior cages and they don't really have much in the way of cross bracing and actually look like they are tied into the sheet metal, doesn't look like much really. I will be using bolt plates to go through the sheet metal and then welding plates to the frame directly.


Like I said, I know it's not ideal, but it's better than nothing. Reminds me of rock climbing, if you put gear in a crappy crack it "might" hold. If you don't put it in, it definitely won't lol.


Thanks in advance again,
Sean
 

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Sean,

I have been thinking about roll cages as well. I have looked at the safety devices L011. I think that basically covers the 2nd row, but doesn't do anything for up to the windscreen? Is it your second row seats that are the issue? Looking at the Safety devices site I am trying to picture it. I was thinking that design with something custom up front with an X brace might work?
 

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Performance and protection are great. I just received my custom 110 cage from them and the thing is fucking awesome.

You have to email them directly. Ask for Kim
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I got started yesterday, probably took longer to get measurements and angles than it did to build. I'm using 2"x.120 wall DOM tubing and 1/4" plate for mounts. I had a bit of a problem with bending the hoops. If I have my bender one way the tube would hit the wall and the other way it hits my lift so I had to do them in three pieces. I know it should be all one piece but I ended up putting 1.75x.120 wall DOM tube in each joint along with 8, 1/2" rosette welds as well as the seam weld so I'm not at all worried about that being a point of failure.


I sandwiched two 1/4" plates held together with 4, 1/2" grade 8 bolts/plate which will be tied into the frame on the rears and the front wings on the front. It's pretty hard to see in the pictures but it doesn't block my field of vision like I thought.


I'll be running from behind the second row to the front with 2 bars/side like a truss so that should be quite strong so I don't have to run down the B pillar. I'll add cross braces to the C pillar as suggested, as well I'm trying to figure out a knee bar for the front. More to come but I got my son coming for the weekend.


Sean
 

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Hi, if you can find my original posts from the stub below, there are a bunch of photos of the inside roll cage I had fabricated. Of all the work that a shop called "Just4Fun" in Lindon, Utah did on my 110 SW, the inside roll cage is by far the most satisfying.

Hi, I have a favorite shop that has been working on my Landrover 110 Station Wagon. They mostly do Jeeps for offroad, but they have done an excellent job for me. The roll cage pictured was recently completed. They tied it to the frame in 6 places, and they powdercoated the entire thing before final install. Note the removable front bar over the dashboard to facilitate working in that area. Notice the grip bars to facilitate getting in and out, and also how it was built into the dashbord. It also has ideal clearance for my feet on the driver's side pedals, so there is no intereference, even though its a tight space down there. I really like it! Pics will be coming when site admin allows them. Stay tuned!
 

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As you see in Brad's cage, the main hoops are triangulated. Without this the hoops tend to fold up, reducing the effectiveness. Same with the longitudinals. As you see in Brad's cage there are cross braces in the roof area which holds the entire thing rigid.
It's a challenge to make an effective cage without removing at minimum the coachroof and sides as the entire rear structure should be one weldment, not something pieced together so it fits thru the back door. This is the "core" and the front hoop at the windshield ties into it.
Don't compare the NAS 110 exo cage to a true roll cage. We've seen rolled NAS trucks and the cage is not really what you hope it would be.

------ Follow up post added October 11th, 2019 07:49 AM ------

As you see in Brad's cage, the main hoops are triangulated. Without this the hoops tend to fold up, reducing the effectiveness. Same with the longitudinals. As you see in Brad's cage there are cross braces in the roof area which holds the entire thing rigid.
It's a challenge to make an effective cage without removing at minimum the coachroof and sides as the entire rear structure should be one weldment, not something pieced together so it fits thru the back door. This is the "core" and the front hoop at the windshield ties into it.
Don't compare the NAS 110 exo cage to a true roll cage. We've seen rolled NAS trucks and the cage is not really what you hope it would be.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Thanks Bill, I kinda figured that's what you were talking about. I had a couple hours yesterday to get some more done. I still have to add the cross brace on the middle hoop and I'll have a couple more tubes going down from that hoop forward just behind the second row seats giving me a mount point for the seat latch.


I'm trying to avoid having any tubes near anyones head. I was going to put a second tube from the front hoop to the second hoop but it gets kinda close to where mine and the front passengers head will be, so now I'm thinking I should just leave that as it is.....still thinking. I was also thinking of running one down the center but that will just lead to other problems such as rear view mirror, roof liner attachments, interior lights etc....suggestions???? I'm already wondering about sun visors now....oops.


2"x0.120 wall DOM tubing


Thanks,
Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Figured out how to do a cross brace in the second hoop. It's two layers of 1/8" steel welded together just about an inch thick. It runs where the headrests are so it doesn't block too much view out the rear and I cut it so I can see out my rear side windows and small rear windows well enough to no be a hazard. I cut it close to size but it's gonna be a bitch to get it fit inside the hoop nicely, kinda heavy to be taking it in and out. Also added side down tubes on each side of the second row seats just a couple inches rear of the seating area. Just a bunch of welds to go after that.


Sean
 

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