How to remove distributor to prime oil pump

660 Views 15 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Santiago Montenegr, 2 mo ago

ruscarus

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago

4

3.9 motor in LR 90, trying to prime the oil pump and couldn’t find clear step by step instructions for a novice. I think Im trying to take off the distributor and then I can reach into the engine with a socket + extension to spin the oil pump at high speed. I marked everything as I took it off to reposition correctly I think.

Here is some pictures of the cap if anything looks bad there please let me know. Does that crack in the plastic cap matter?

Anyway, I got to here and im not sure what im taking off next. Am I removing the whole housing or the circlip and center part only?

If there is a thread where this is all laid out I apologize.

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Pbfender15

· #2 · 2 mo ago

I'm not experienced in this but have to do it myself so have done some research...

You need to remove the distributor, but you don't need to remove the rotor. There is a nut on a bracket below the distributor...

See this video of changing a Rover V8 distributor. The nut you want is at 10:06 in this video. The video is pretty helpful generally. He points out the parts that spin the oil pump.

Here is a shot from the workshop manual also. See the nut labeled 6, 8. The position looks terrible but it is easy to turn.

This thread also very helpful:

www.defendersource.com

Another Oil Pressure Prime issue 95 NAS with a 3.9

All. It has been a bit since I have jumped on here but I may need some help with the oil prime after pulling my pan and filter. More on that in a sec. Anyway I have read some where the only way to prime it is with a hand drill and remove the dist. cap. I really do not want to do that. I...

www.defendersource.com

www.defendersource.com

Let us know how it goes -- I have to prime my oil pump as well so will be interested in what your experience is.

good luck -

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Angus

· #3 · 2 mo ago

I primed my oil pump before I installed the distro in my new motor, but for a new mechanic the process should go like this:

Remove the cap and crank the engine. Note which direction the rotor turns (CW or CCW, I don't remember which). This is the direction you will turn it to prime.

Turn the engine to TDC on the crank.

Mark the position of the rotor on the distro body (a Sharpie works great). Also mark the position of the housing on the block. This will get you close on the timing, but you will still need a light to set the timing when reassembled.

Remove the distro hold down nut and fork, remove the distro. Note: the rotor will rotate as it is removed. This is important when reinstalling.

I used a long straight blade screw driver on a drill to prime, note direction of rotor rotation from before. Once oil is flowing to rockers, you should be good.

To reinsert the distro, ensure you are still on TDC. Line up the distro body and block lines you made earlier. You will have to lead the rotor position as you drop it back in. Once it it should line up with the marks you made earlier. Ensure the distro drops all the way back in.

Replace the hold down fork and nut, but leave loose enough to rotate distro. Replace cap.

Set timing with a light and tighten hold down nut.

I am sure others will chime in if I missed anything.

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ruscarus

Discussion Starter · #4 · 2 mo ago

Angus said:
I primed my oil pump before I installed the distro in my new motor, but for a new mechanic the process should go like this:

Remove the cap and crank the engine. Note which direction the rotor turns (CW or CCW, I don't remember which). This is the direction you will turn it to prime.

Turn the engine to TDC on the crank.

Mark the position of the rotor on the distro body (a Sharpie works great). Also mark the position of the housing on the block. This will get you close on the timing, but you will still need a light to set the timing when reassembled.

Remove the distro hold down nut and fork, remove the distro. Note: the rotor will rotate as it is removed. This is important when reinstalling.

I used a long straight blade screw driver on a drill to prime, note direction of rotor rotation from before. Once oil is flowing to rockers, you should be good.

To reinsert the distro, ensure you are still on TDC. Line up the distro body and block lines you made earlier. You will have to lead the rotor position as you drop it back in. Once it it should line up with the marks you made earlier. Ensure the distro drops all the way back in.

Replace the hold down fork and nut, but leave loose enough to rotate distro. Replace cap.

Set timing with a light and tighten hold down nut.

I am sure others will chime in if I missed anything.

The tool I made keeps slipping off so I can’t crank the oil pump for more than a few seconds and not at a fast speed. I made this from a socket extension. What did you use?

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Pbfender15

· #5 · 2 mo ago

Again, I haven't done it yet but I bought one of these at $30 for when I do. I called the people and confirmed it works for a 3.9.

thewedgeshopstore.com

Rover V8 Oil Priming Tool

Custom Rover V8 Priming Tool!

thewedgeshopstore.com

Angus

· #6 · 2 mo ago

I slotted a piece of thick wall tubing, much like the tool you made. You don't have to spin it very fast to pump oil. You just want it to move the oil, not necessarily to build pressure. Ensure the bottom of your tool matches the distro bottom.

DPdotCOM

· #7 · 2 mo ago

I took a piece of copper pipe, i forget the diameter but it JUST barely fits in the chuck of my drill at its widest setting, and then i used a vice to crimp the end of the pipe so it pretty much slots right into the male pump end (i believe there are some years/variants where the pump gear has a female end). But bc it's a crimped pipe, it fits all around the pump rod and doesn;t slip off.

THAT SAID: I believe you can always just take the pump cover off, pack it full of vaseline, and then let the pump prime itself. IF you're worried about running the engine without pressure, you can remove the primary ignition coil to the distributor and then just crank the engine until you see oil pressure.

P.S. with these stupid V8s, just get an oil pressure gauge, this **** will happen every once in awhile and just knowing you've got pressure is so much easier. It's not even about constant monitoring, it's about having good data in these moments when you're trying to re-prime.

ruscarus

Discussion Starter · #8 · 2 mo ago

DPdotCOM said:
I took a piece of copper pipe, i forget the diameter but it JUST barely fits in the chuck of my drill at its widest setting, and then i used a vice to crimp the end of the pipe so it pretty much slots right into the male pump end (i believe there are some years/variants where the pump gear has a female end). But bc it's a crimped pipe, it fits all around the pump rod and doesn;t slip off.

THAT SAID: I believe you can always just take the pump cover off, pack it full of vaseline, and then let the pump prime itself. IF you're worried about running the engine without pressure, you can remove the primary ignition coil to the distributor and then just crank the engine until you see oil pressure.

P.S. with these stupid V8s, just get an oil pressure gauge, this **** will happen every once in awhile and just knowing you've got pressure is so much easier. It's not even about constant monitoring, it's about having good data in these moments when you're trying to re-prime.

Yes! I want a real oil pressure gauge, can you send a link to the one you have? Fitting screwed right in?

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DPdotCOM

· #9 · 2 mo ago

ruscarus said:
Yes! I want a real oil pressure gauge, can you send a link to the one you have? Fitting screwed right in?

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any 52MM/2-1/16" oil pressure gauge will work, just need to make sure the sender is the right size (if i recall mine maybe came with multiple size fittings?

But technically these are the two parts i have:

Loading…

www.summitracing.com

Loading…

www.summitracing.com

I mounted it really janky under the dash for awhile, but i'm moving it up into the center dash shelf area along with outlets and such.

I always thought the Madman electronic gauges were such overkill, but over time as i've added a tach, oil pressure, wishing i had oil temp, etc. I now see the value of having 4-5 gauges' worth of data but right there in one binnacle-mounted spot.

Santiago Montenegr

· #10 · 2 mo ago

DPdotCOM said:
THAT SAID: I believe you can always just take the pump cover off, pack it full of vaseline, and then let the pump prime itself. IF you're worried about running the engine without pressure, you can remove the primary ignition coil to the distributor and then just crank the engine until you see oil pressure.

THIS! No need to do all that distributor thing.

DPdotCOM

· #11 · 2 mo ago

Santiago Montenegr said:
THIS! No need to do all that distributor thing.

To be fair, this process absolutely sucks too, haha. Goopy, dirty, and eventually you're gonna get that gear falling out and tagging you in the face/throat.

ruscarus

Discussion Starter · #12 · 2 mo ago

DPdotCOM said:
any 52MM/2-1/16" oil pressure gauge will work, just need to make sure the sender is the right size (if i recall mine maybe came with multiple size fittings?

But technically these are the two parts i have:

Loading…

www.summitracing.com

Loading…

www.summitracing.com

I mounted it really janky under the dash for awhile, but i'm moving it up into the center dash shelf area along with outlets and such.

I always thought the Madman electronic gauges were such overkill, but over time as i've added a tach, oil pressure, wishing i had oil temp, etc. I now see the value of having 4-5 gauges' worth of data but right there in one binnacle-mounted spot.

Why did you choose an electrical signal rather than mechanical? Just curious

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DPdotCOM

· #13 · 2 mo ago

ruscarus said:
Why did you choose an electrical signal rather than mechanical? Just curious

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All things being equal, I’d rather pump electrons to behind my dash than a tube full of hot motor oil.

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ruscarus

Discussion Starter · #14 · 2 mo ago

ruscarus said:
Why did you choose an electrical signal rather than mechanical? Just curious

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Just ordered that one…thanks

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rlynch356

· #15 · 2 mo ago

IMHO.. Priming the system..
13mm 6 point socket (try a 12 first) on a 12" 3/8 extension with a 3 or 6" extension after that (the 12" will just clear the hole but the extra room is better)
Check that the socket fits securely on the tab then remove and TAPE IT TO THE 12" EXTENSION - its not the end of the world dropping it in the front cover, but takes a while to fish it out with a magnet.... tape avoids that..

Use a plug in drill - battery ones don't seem to have the power... and an adapter to go from 3/8 extension to your drill..

The Tab needs to go clockwise - pretty fast.. basically until the light on the dash goes out.

I use a cheap video borescope to see the light on the dash from the front of the truck...

After the 2nd or 3rd time you do this - its a 5 minute process..
the official way is to pull the oil pump apart and pack with vasoline.. which pretty much sucks but does work, or sometimes dosent and you get to do it all over again.

Reactions: 1

Santiago Montenegr

· #16 · 2 mo ago

DPdotCOM said:
To be fair, this process absolutely sucks too, haha. Goopy, dirty, and eventually you're gonna get that gear falling out and tagging you in the face/throat.

I LOLed!

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