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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I've reviewed the Defender Water Ingress 'manual' and need to fill the gap above the windscreen with 'sealant' (preferably black). This is a new build, with a new seal, but I still get a great deal of water coming in all across the windshield during heavy rain (and in the corners when I move the vehicle after being parked in a heavy rain).

The manual above references "Leak Check" by Kent as the preferred sealant. I have found this (spray form) online (though it is clear). Before I order I figured I'd reach out to see if anyone had experience or recommendations to share on curing this. I'd like to know this is sealed off before I install my $$$ headliner so I don't end up with water stains.

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If not too late to remove roof:
Fitted to later models
ENX500171 Pad, Foam
LR028970 Pad, butyl Rubber out A post
Then do what Napalm suggests.
Also ensure your windscreen brackets have good gaskets. JimC sold me on the YRM
 

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Do you have a sunroof? I ask because under the headliner there are internal gutters and a leak from the sunroof would leak at the windscreen in the corners.
If no sunroof, you might want to consider removing the roof. Skip the foam and go with good flexible silicone caulk. It'll fill all the gaps and give you a tight seal. I just did this under my screen rail while fitting a soft top, it has worked flawlessly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks all.
I do have a sunroof, newly fitted, but I have the headliner out and can see this is not the source of my water. As I drive it actually comes in right behind sun visors and drips all over my dash.
I have ordered both parts @KGH listed from Bearmach. Will likely pull the roof. Gotta see what kind of seal situation I have under there from the build, but these two smaller pieces will be handy to have if I feel they would be a good supplement to the existing seal, possible added Frost King, and silicone caulk.
Not super excited about lifting the roof, but not the end of the world and worth knowing I'm sealed up as tight as possible.

As an aside, I had been contemplating pulling the roof anyhow because some of my original bits were not available (or couldnt find them) during my rebuild, and the L brackets that connect tub to frame at the location indicated in the photo did not make it back in as new pieces. Tub & frame are instead connected with a large bolt further back (also shown below).
This worth going after parts and replacing that L Bracket? I got new Britpart L pieces, but they are a bit too wide for my vertical channel on the top. I can grind em down to fit...but if the consensus is that the bolt I have fitted is sufficient, I may save myself the time and focus on the seal. (and yes, you may notice some water in the photo. My new Masai slider channels do fill up a bit on an incline and drip in)

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You know even after the foam strip that the joint is supposed to be caulked with 3M 4200 or similar right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You know even after the foam strip that the joint is supposed to be caulked with 3M 4200 or similar right?
I did not. I did not do the install but this makes me feel better about my plans to run a bead up there. Thanks @JimC
 

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4200 comes in black and white, if your roof is white it blends right in. If you’re neat about it, you can run black in there and have it look good. I think it’s paintable though, so you could even run a touch-up spray over the area if you wanted maximum craftsmanship!
 

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I only use Dum Dum or 3M( 08580) strip caulk, both coming in white or black. The 1/4" x 8' strips are plyable, flexible and waterproof . Best thing ever to caulk around window glass gaskets where the water is more or less directed in behind door cards and causes most of all rust at door bottoms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I only use Dum Dum or 3M( 08580) strip caulk, both coming in white or black. The 1/4" x 8' strips are plyable, flexible and waterproof . Best thing ever to caulk around window glass gaskets where the water is more or less directed in behind door cards and causes most of all rust at door bottoms.
Thanks @Candyo this stuff looks super useful, but I can't seem to find either product...though there are many would-be equivalents. Dum Dum is old/no longer in production and the 3M product I can find is 08578. This different product # would certainly work, but does not come in an 8' strip. Do you know if 08580 remains available? For obvious reasons, using a single strip across the top of the windshield would be preferable to stringing together multiple 1' pieces.
 

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Here is the Dum Dum info readily available stateside from the supplier:

463356


463357


You will not use up the caulk provided one box in your lifetime !
 

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Thanks @Candyo this stuff looks super useful, but I can't seem to find either product...though there are many would-be equivalents. Dum Dum is old/no longer in production and the 3M product I can find is 08578. This different product # would certainly work, but does not come in an 8' strip. Do you know if 08580 remains available? For obvious reasons, using a single strip across the top of the windshield would be preferable to stringing together multiple 1' pieces.
See pic of Dum Dum box below - very much alive and from Ohio.
 

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Actually, in the fore and aft corners where the door top seals end and the door frame begins. As the door top seals age they become brittle and shrink leaving the gaps at the ends.

Alternatively install new door top seals.
 
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