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Discussion Starter #1
I’m in the process of installing Sniper EFI on my LHD 110. Edelbrock intake manifold. Original water temp sensor fits with no issues. There’s another bung on top of manifold, but Holley water temp sensor doesn’t fit. Is there another location I can install the Holley water temp sensor? Locations on the block?

Thanks.
 

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Paging Dr Lynch, Dr Lynch, will Dr Rob Lynch please pickup.
Your expert advice is needed!
 

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I answered this on the other thread but the one on the top is an air passage, plug it with a 3/8 plug.

The sensor goes beside the water neck it’s 3/8ntp as well.

Your dash gauge sensor will have to move or you can do a T and locate both there. Or tap the triangle on the manifold for the dash sensor (5/8 unf for stock or 3/8ntp for vdo or your choice of vdo sensors )
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Rob! I’m not sure why, but the Holley sensor doesn’t seem to fit either of those bungs. Did you order the Holley kit, or order a sensor separately?
 

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Normal holly sensor fits here





This one is the one you plug .. it’s intake and not coolant


You may need to chase the threads on the coolant sensor on the edlebrock manifold
 

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Hard to say... the gearbox is from a 300tdi defender and not suited to the gas motor, that is being sorted now.

I does run good though. And better than the old spitronics setup
 

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Please if you retap it, first remove it from the engine and clean out any metal shavings!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok. Ended up having to retap the threads. No issues (other than lost time). Separate question: the original carb manifold setup had a metal pipe running under the manifold from the water pump to the heater. The new manifold doesn’t allow that. Any reason I can’t just run rubber hose on the outside of the manifold to achieve the same thing? May not be pretty...
 

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No problems, you can run it under the manifold as well.

The wedge shop makes and outlet for the rear as well, if you want to use that as an outlet instead of the one on the water neck or use both as I did and route to the heater then return to the water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Awesome. Managed to get that worked out. Went to cycle everything on, and it looks like I’m not tied into the correct power source. I connected into a white wire on the loom in the engine compartment. I thought the white provided constant power, but the monitor turns off when I go to crank the engine. Where did you end up connecting to power?
 

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holly has a pink wire that needs to be on switched +; it carries no load, its just a signal +, i attached it to the ignition switch, just make sure it is constant throughout the cranking cycle. Look at page 17 of the Holly Instructions..
 

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Awesome. Managed to get that worked out. Went to cycle everything on, and it looks like I’m not tied into the correct power source. I connected into a white wire on the loom in the engine compartment. I thought the white provided constant power, but the monitor turns off when I go to crank the engine. Where did you end up connecting to power?
White/Black is "meant" to be the colour code for the switched power that stays on while cranking. Normally you would simply tap into the power to the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Back to working on the truck post holidays. Everything put together and it’s running. But...it’s never that simple is it? Running hot now. Doesn‘t jump quickly, but just steady climb that never stops. I cut the engine around 180-190 to not overheat (since the original temp gauge shows hot in that range). Electric fans set to go on at 140. Idle rpm set to 900. I’ve read that setting the idle too low can cause overheating, but not sure on this. Any thoughts? Hope everyone’s had a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year’s.
 

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The thermostat is probably 190 so there is no way to keep it below that.
 

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190 is fine - i would swap to a VDO gauge so you can tell what temp you are actually running. my truck runs at 192-194 when driving on the highway which is well within the temp specs for the engine. I am using a normal fan on the v-belt setup with an extra fan in the front pushing - i turn it on at 198..
My idle is 750 - it will idle all day long at 190-193
 

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Discussion Starter #18
190 is fine - i would swap to a VDO gauge so you can tell what temp you are actually running. my truck runs at 192-194 when driving on the highway which is well within the temp specs for the engine. I am using a normal fan on the v-belt setup with an extra fan in the front pushing - i turn it on at 198..
My idle is 750 - it will idle all day long at 190-193
Thanks. Makes perfect sense. I’m pulling with two revotec fans, hooked into the EFI for turning on. Not sure they’re going to be as good as the old viscous fan, but mine was shot.

I know there’s all kind of posts on the topic, but what VDO gauges are you running?
 

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Here you go..
Vision Black 250°F Water Temperature Gauge, Use with VDO Sender, 12V | Water Temperature | Vision Black | By Series | Instruments, Displays and Clusters | VDO Instruments and Accessories

sender - normally 3/8th for the edlebrock manifold depending on where you put it and how you ground it - the rover one is 5/8 unf -
here is the 3/8th one - 250°F/120°C 3/8-18NPTF 801/1/38 | Temperature Sensor Only | Temperature Sensors & Switch | Senders and Sensors | VDO Instruments and Accessories
there are a bunch of options for vdo senders.

just pop in the part number into google for other purchase options -
 
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