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Well, I finally managed to get this sucker out. I did it with the control cables and heater hoses intact.

I discovered something interesting: the bottom bolts attached to the kickpanel area hold a bracket on the engine side. This bracket has a U shape on its outer edge holding the heater. It appears that you do NOT have to remove these bolts, which are a pain to get at with AC. You simply pivot the heater from the top, forward away from the bulkhead. Once the adhesive foam is detached you should then be able to lift the unit from the bottom bracket. This would have saved me at lest an hour of frustrating work.

In my case water had collected in the motor and pooled in its external frame. This is a very common problem if one doesn't routinely clean out the trap. I was unaware that I had to and after only three months of ownership it manifested.

I decided to drill three 1/4" holes in this area, as close to the seam as possible. This is the seam where the motor meets the housing, the lowest point of the assembly. Any water collecting here has a chance to drain down. I also am removing the rubber trap and leaving it as is or fitting a rubber hose. This hose will be long enough to be able to blow out any debris with your mouth!

I am also considering removing the plastic air dam altogether. I would prefer clamping a hose to the intake and running it forward, close to the grill if possible. If not, then I'll cut the hose to a few inches and clamp it to the area where the dam was. Of course, I'd fit a blanking plate as in RHD versions or run a snorkel out this way. I would think the path through this side is more straight than the typical setup out the driver's side.

Now to the question. The motor was seized so I sprayed some WD40 into a small hole near the rear, apparently there for this purpose. Now it runs just fine. Is there a special lubricant that I can use for this? I fear that once the WD40 evaporates the problem may return so I'm all for doing it right. I do not want to go through this again!
 

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I would use wurth HS2000 or some other coagulating type lubricant (starts out thin like WD 40 then congeals into an almost grease like adhesive lubricant)

Ron
 
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