Defender Source Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
379 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Bit frustrated with this one, hoping someone has solved something similar. '85 90 2.5na, stock

Over the past few weeks, my LH low beam started to occasionally take a second to light, just like an HID :). Made a note to dig into it at some point. Well, it quit over the weekend.

Main beam is fine, so my ground is good (that was an earlier problem, all major grounding points are clean and tight). I am getting 12+v at both sides of the low beam fuse, but about 10v at the low beam socket. I replaced the socket (which was functional, but needed to be replaced), and am now getting 10.3 or so and not enough current to light the bulb.

The connection behind the headlight seems fine, so my question is what, if anything is between the fuse panel and the connector behind the light that could cause the issue?


thanks.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
409 Posts
take the path of least resistance first. Swap headlights using the right side. If the low beam works then you know the light was bad. If it dosnt then you can start elec troubleshooting.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,394 Posts
Wayne,
Instead of spending a bunch of time chasing down a problem in a problematic design you should consider a powered harness with relays. It will solve a bunch of future problems before they happen AND your lights will be MUCH brighter.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,278 Posts
Extremely common problem.
You need to replace the fuse "box" clusters.
I buy a more compact version with the push type fuse that takes a female spade from the back.
It will solve this one and countless future issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
275 Posts
If it does end up being the switch (doubtful), I have a new one. Bought it a couple months ago from Rovers North, didn't need it, forgot to return it. I also have a harness with relay. Turns out I didn't need that either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
379 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks all. I had read about the fusebox problems, but was hoping it was not that. I am getting full voltage at the front of the fusebox, but there could be, well, probably is an issue with the connections on the back. I will pull the fusebox support to get a look behind it.

I thought of doing relay harnesses, I figured I'd wait until something like this gave me the motivation.

w
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,766 Posts
The switch is actually the most common fault. The switch goes bad from running full power through it. Swapping to a relay harness will save the switch, and most headlight issues go away. -Jeff
Which is exactly what happened to me. I blame the mega wattage hella bulbs for overheating the switch within hours of usage. A relay solved that problem permanently.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
379 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
One more thing to check, but there were several different methods the factory used for their "dip-dim" UK goofyness over the years. Sometimes using extra relay modules or resistors.

-Jeff
yes, this is one of my concerns. My truck is French spec so it should be simple, but the home market dim/dip or whatever they call that addendum to the wiring diagram is intimidating
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
379 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
bad fuses!?!

...so the fuse had developed very high resistance. Visually, the fuse was fine and showed voltage passing through on the Fluke.

I had swapped the fuse w/ an identical one (British type fuse from the same baggie, from the same popular vendor) and still had no lights. Going through my work again, I swapped fuses with an old one from another slot and got lights.

Now it gets weird...2 of the 5 remaining new fuses in the bag had high resistance....how do you f**k up making a fuse? I am guessing that this fuse was defective from day one, and got worse over time. They all went in the bin.

Thanks all again for the responses.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top