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Discussion Starter #141
Yes.

Just installed the Trans-Dapt 2025 Carburetor Adapter with the HOLLEY SNIPER EFI 2GC SMALL BORE and it worked fine when bolted to the stock manifold.

It was much simpler, but wasn't available last year when I went with the HOLLEY SNIPER EFI 2300 on the 292.
Do you have an adapter to go from the Offenhauser to the 2300?
 

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Yes.

Just installed the Trans-Dapt 2025 Carburetor Adapter with the HOLLEY SNIPER EFI 2GC SMALL BORE and it worked fine when bolted to the stock manifold.

It was much simpler, but wasn't available last year when I went with the HOLLEY SNIPER EFI 2300 on the 292.
Do you have an adapter to go from the Offenhauser to the 2300?

I had a 1933 4brl to 2brl adapter that I'm throwing on the Offenhauser manifold. The manifold has the 4 ports so probably not the most desirable if it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #144
Score of the year.
Drove up to Colonial Heights, VA today and picked up a Chevy 250 with the AC brackets and compressor, power steering brackets and pump, and the alternator and brackets. It also had the extra pulleys to fit all 3. The engine was removed from a low mileage pickup without issues to install a V8. We paid $50 for it. The interesting thing was I drove our 110 with the $125 Chevy 250 that I bought last spring with just over 46,000 miles that was located not 5 miles from the seller of this $50 engine.
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. IMG_20200321_185949809.jpg
 

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Finally stuck the motor in this morning. It went absolutely smooth as I could have wished for. I cut off some 4x 6” 3/8 threaded rod and used them as guides for the trans. Had it lifted in and the trans and mounts bolted up in about 45 minutes. The dust shield bolts lined up perfectly just has to die grind the two outer lips so they wouldn’t pinch in between the adapter and motor.









This week I’m going to build the PS lines, coolant lines, wiring, and start on the fuel injection.

Robert, any tips or advice on installing the Sniper pump and return lines? Where did you mount your pump etc.

Thanks again, awesome kit and zero firmament issues. The mounts and brackets are spot on with adjustment in all directions. The trans adapter fit like a glove and didn’t even have to turn the crank to line up the splines.

I’m taking my lazy time doing this but I absolutely agree that it is possible to complete in a weekend by someone with basic mechanical skills.


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Discussion Starter #146
Finally stuck the motor in this morning. It went absolutely smooth as I could have wished for. I cut off some 4x 6” 3/8 threaded rod and used them as guides for the trans. Had it lifted in and the trans and mounts bolted up in about 45 minutes. The dust shield bolts lined up perfectly just has to die grind the two outer lips so they wouldn’t pinch in between the adapter and motor.

~Install is looking really good Shannon.
How far away from the bulkhead was the rear cast iron header?
The engine sits straight and clears the steering box with room to spare.~

This week I’m going to build the PS lines, coolant lines, wiring, and start on the fuel injection.
Robert, any tips or advice on installing the Sniper pump and return lines? Where did you mount your pump etc.
~We installed the fuel pump on the outside of the frame rail.~

Thanks again, awesome kit and zero firmament issues. The mounts and brackets are spot on with adjustment in all directions. The trans adapter fit like a glove and didn’t even have to turn the crank to line up the splines.

I’m taking my lazy time doing this but I absolutely agree that it is possible to complete in a weekend by someone with basic mechanical skills.
~We've done our best to achieve a bolt in kit at a reasonable price that is easy for a DIY owner with limited mechanical skills or a shop with skilled mechanics to easily complete in a few days or less.
Hopefully you'll be driving before the pandemic ends.
Thanks for all the pictures.~
 

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Robert, On the sniper setup I had the 2.5 petrol so I have the electric in tank pump and have a return line with the tank mounted in the seat base. On the sniper setup I was thinking of mounting the pump low as possible and hopefully resting the existing return line, should I leave the in tank pump as it is and feed the new pump with it? Should I disconnect the pump and hope it siphons the fuel to the new pump? I've been trapped at home so I think I am questioning everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #154
Background:
I am no 90 expert, but will try and help you with general instructions, so take this with a grain of salt.
If you have the time, the best thing to do is remove the 12V pump, but don't do it until you have a blank-off plate to seal off the 12V pump opening unless the 12V pump is integrated with the sending unit.
In that case where the pump and sending unit are integrated, it is possible to remove the submersible pump from the sending unit with a few caveats.
The first caveat is you have options.
The second caveat (2) is that you can always remove the 12V pump and unplug or disconnect the 12V (+) power source, but you have to be careful not to disturb the float level sensing wires.
Then furthering 2, you need to extend the fuel pickup line down to siphon fuel from the bottom of the tank.
If you extend the pickup line, you might run out of fuel prematurely.
The third caveat (3) is that if you have the the sending unit integrated with the submersible pump, then you can replace this with a new sending unit that does not have the integrated pump and sort the wiring to only read the fuel levels in the wiring.
The third caveat (3), is the sending unit and the 12V submersible pump are not integrated. In case 3 it would be possible to remove the pump only and isolate the power source where it cannot short and plug off the tank opening.
having read all 2 scenarios:
I do not think it is a good idea to leave the current pump or fuel lines in place with the Holley Sniper.
The factory 12V pump is designed to push 3 to 5 PSI to a Weber 32/34 2 barrel.
The Holley sniper is designed to push 45 to 58.5 PSI which could cause the pull rate to increase by (using the highest pull rate of 5) by 1,170%.
Also the fuel line diameter varies for the 17H from 8mm to 6mm depending on the vehicle, while Holley demands 3/8 (10mm) fuel line.

For the reasons above, I recommend that you replace the existing fuel line with the 3/8" high pressure line supplied or recommended by Holley for the sniper EFI.
Hope this helps.
Stay safe and healthy, Shannon.
 

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Discussion Starter #155
It is so nice to work with professionals.
Since quarantine ended today, wanted to get in the shop to finish a 250 install in a LHD 90.
The only parts we needed to finish prepping the engine were the 2 groove aluminum crank pulley and the power steering pump spacers.

Our elderly machinist, who had stopped work due to COVID-19, went to his shop and made the parts for us on Friday so I would be able to finish this install.
The quality of his work is awesome.

Some pictures of the finished parts and the material that was used to make them.

IMG_20200404_105853172_HDR.jpg IMG_20200404_105903500_HDR.jpg IMG_20200404_104815306.jpg IMG_20200404_104827923.jpg
 
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