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Discussion Starter #124
PS bracket is looking good.
Those cast iron dual headers don't clear the bulkhead.
The engine doesn't need them anyway.
More than enough power with a single pipe.
 

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Headers are clearing mine fine and should have plenty of clearance for the slave. I’m just needing to get a bit snakey with the down pipe.
It’s not noticeable in the pic but there are four bends in the long section already.

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I may be over thinking or I am just confused. I have the Lt77 that was mounted to the 17h. I asked you earlier about using the diesel clutch and you mentioned to use the 130 disk, pressure plate, and the release bearing for the short bell housing. I thought to use a HD disk and pressure plate but I'm also finding that the stumpy bearings say they can't be used on the 2.5 na or 2.5 petrol? Are all the stumpy lt77 bearings and arms the same and the only difference would be if it is an r380 regardless of diesel or petrol?
 

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Here are some photos of Robert’s bellhousing adapter installed in my Chevy 250 conversion if anyone is interested. I did the conversion last year and love it, but was using an old Scotty’s bellhousing Adapter without a proper dust shield and wanted to switch it with Robert’s version that has holes to mount a proper dust shield. Everything fit perfectly and I really like the ability to bolt on the dust shield, however I did have some interference with the flanged head of the smaller starter bolt hitting on the head of the top dust shield bolt, which preventing it from tightening down...no big deal though, grinding the flange head of the bolt and/or picking a different style bolt easily solves the problem...I actually just left the top dust shield bolt out for now, as it still has 6 others and isn’t going anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #128
Shannon:
Great news that the headers clear the firewall with a 250 with the 4 cylinder frame mounts.
On the 292 with V8 frame mounts, the rear header was right on the bulkhead.
I have a set of the same cast iron headers here that I can save for our Dormobile project thanks to you.

The R380 Stumpy has a unique release bearing that cannot be substituted for a long belhousing R380 release bearing. I have never tried to substitute a short belhousing LT77 release bearing.

The old clutch pressure and driven plates from your 17H will work, but for someone buying a new clutch I always recommend the heavy duty 130 clutch pressure and driven plates to better deal with the additional performance of the Chevy inline 6.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Brian:
Interesting story regarding that top bolt.
It was never meant to be part of the adapter dust shield mounting points, but the pattern maker decided to add it.
Then when I asked the machinist to machine it off the adapter when he wrote the program about 20 years ago, he forgot.
Then when I had the adapter dust shields made, they forgot to leave the bump-out for that bolt off the dust shield.
So I guess that useless feature of that top dust shield bolt by the starter was destined to be there even though you can't use it!
 

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Great thanks, I got an m8 version. Sorry, one more question. I noticed in another post you had a metal tab extending over the pilot bushing from the crank bolts, is that necessary? I finished up some painting so I’m just about to plop it in.



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Discussion Starter #135
Here are some photos of Robert’s bellhousing adapter installed in my Chevy 250 conversion if anyone is interested. I did the conversion last year and love it, but was using an old Scotty’s bellhousing Adapter without a proper dust shield and wanted to switch it with Robert’s version that has holes to mount a proper dust shield. Everything fit perfectly and I really like the ability to bolt on the dust shield, however I did have some interference with the flanged head of the smaller starter bolt hitting on the head of the top dust shield bolt, which preventing it from tightening down...no big deal though, grinding the flange head of the bolt and/or picking a different style bolt easily solves the problem...I actually just left the top dust shield bolt out for now, as it still has 6 others and isn’t going anywhere.
Installed a GM 4 cylinder engine into a Santana 109 this weekend and was remarkably able to install all the dust shield bolts.

The order was:
1.) Drill out the dust shield holes to 3/8".

2.) Install the starter through the dust shield and bolt it in place (this is needed to center the dust shield as its tight around the starter to prevent road debris from entering - be sure and not pinch the dust shield between the adapter and the engine.

3.) Install the top dust shield bolt nearest the starter - this requires an opened end wrench. Do not fully tighten.

4.) Install all the other dust shield bolts. I used the typical 1/4 - 20 Hex Head bolts with lock washers with the exception of the bolt directly below the starter which I used a 1/4 - 20 socket head (sometimes called allen-head).

5.) Again, verify the adapter is not pinched between the adapter and the engine as you tighten all the dust shield bolts.
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IMG_20200229_174649946.jpg IMG_20200301_104303999_HDR.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #137
The Chevy 230/250 and GM 3.0 Liter 4 cylinder engines we use for Land Rover engine conversions have either a pressed on crank pulley or a pressed on harmonic balancer.
The 292 has a smaller 7/16" crank pulley bolt.

Since we want the option to add additional pulleys for AC, and a higher output alternator, we built a drilling and tapping jig for a pilot hole, a larger hole suited for a 5/8 tap, and the 5/8 X 18 SAE tap.
The 3 hardened guides can rotate in the jig, so when oiled can spin with the drill or tap which will all but eliminate wear so the guides can be used in the jig many times before new guides are needed.
I was careful drilling the holes slowly and to the correct depth.
This eliminated wear on the sides of the jig and ensured the hole and tapped threads were on center.
The jig works like a champ.
Then the crank pulley bolt can be inserted to ensure the pulley will not loosen even when a 3 or 4 groove pulley is added.
I didn't see any point in taking pictures of drilling of the pilot hole or the larger hole for the tap, but did take a few pictures of the hole being tapped and the final view before inserting and tightening the new crank bolt and washer.
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IMG_20200304_155014010.jpg IMG_20200304_154549619_BURST000_COVER.jpg IMG_20200304_154554408.jpg IMG_20200304_154759902.jpg .
 

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Discussion Starter #139
Installing a Chevy 250 4.1 liter inline 6 in a Tithonus 110.
The owner bought a good used low mileage engine with the integrated manifolds for a few hundred dollars.
It's getting an R380 stumpy with the upgraded heavy duty bearing modification and a 1.22 transfer-case as well as HEI with EFI.
The 250 does not need the higher 5th gear, so this stumpy has the standard 5th gear.
It's also getting a new fuel tank, new starter, new alternator, dual electric cooling fans, Saignaw power steering pump (with reduced pressure kit), and a new Adwest power steering box.
Out with the old 12J and LT77 and in with the new.
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. IMG_20200309_171323373_HDR.jpg IMG_20200309_171311066.jpg IMG_20200311_162532870.jpg IMG_20200311_162515805.jpg IMG_20200311_171952762.jpg IMG_20200311_175528616.jpg
 

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Well I have plenty of free time now .... just received the sniper. Did you mount your pump externally?



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