Give us a heads-up when you open a new thread to pursue this. We're all interested in these swaps.Good day Mr. Davis, I have and old NADA with one of your early conversions I believe. It suffered from a very shoddy radiator and throttle linkage installation which I'm in the process of correcting. Can you tell me which radiator and hoses to order and what you did for the throttle linkage? All the cross flow radiators I've found are too wide and there is no telling what this radiator is from.
Did you by chance see the fuel regulator and gauge showing 2lbs of fuel pressure?You need to install a fuel shutoff needle and seat valve with a viton tipped needle, otherwise the fuel will overflow in the DGV Weber carb.
K. I have concluded this is never ending. I’m done tinkering and trying. Scrapping the build.Yes sir.
No idea why, but the brass needles work halfway.
I have been through hours upon hours of using everything except a viton tipped needle and wasted time with everything else.
Robert, here are forums discussing the 250 with the same Weber carb: Anybody running a 32/36 Weber on a 250? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board NetworkMatt, the content of post 769 is based on my experience with running the weber 2 barrel on GM 4 cylinder engines.
Here is a 3.0 GM 4 cylinder with a Weber 38 with the viton tipped needle in the fuel shutoff valve fed by the stock fuel pump.
The engine shown has no exhaust and was being run for the first time in a Series III Santana 109.
Well jeez, she's worked out pretty well so far....Throwing money at a motor and not knowing how to use the tools at hand is like throwing money at a stripper thinking you are courting a wife.
I will give it a try and help you out if you are interested, I am not a mechanic or technician but I have spent more than my fair share of hours and dollars building vehicles.Curious if anyone hears anything specific in this engine when it's near idle. It seems to gasp and then catch up. I'm not sure what's up. (Timing good -- ranging from 15 advanced to 0, most vaccum plugged, still playing with mixture screw)
After trying the original Rochester, a Holley 4bbl, a new Rochester, I quit listening to people and ordered a Weber 32/36 carb and adapter. It's starting to run now. Still not sure if it's a good engine or not. Will need to play with different mixtures and advances but it's getting close. If anyone can listen to that and has any ideas, let me know.
(Know that I've tried timing any where from 15 degrees advanced to perfectly 0 degrees. ~10 degrees advanced seems to be best so far. It starts to almost backfire at zero degrees.)
Hey I was just reading through your troubles and the advice above is perfect to get you diagnosed. Also looking at your pic it may just be a shadow or casting mark but it looks like your intake has a crack in it. You may also want to smoke test your intake to see if you are sealed up. it would account for your symptoms. Realistically you can pretty much get it running on any carb if everything else is good.K. I have concluded this is never ending. I’m done tinkering and trying. Scrapping the build.
I’m thousands ($4000?) into this conversion that was supposed to be simple. I’m on the fourth carb. I had a running Escalade ready to go.
No one can just name a part or two that works. There is always some other thing to buy to make it work. It never ends and never runs. I have to stop some time. I do not believe that valve will make a difference.