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1988 90 2.5L Petrol Converted to Chevy 250 4.1L w/ A/C
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It just dawned on me that I'm not using the stock land rover temp sender; I'm using an AC Delco sender made specifically for the chevy 250. Should I be using the stock land rover temp sender since I'm using the stock temp gauge in my dashboard?
 

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Discussion Starter · #602 ·
Yes.
Unless the one you have is providing the same input current as the original Land Rover sender.
 
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Hey Rob, I saw this and thought I'd ask if you ever ever ventured in this area. This was a 2.25 with a Haltech engine management system. Have you ever tried something like this? any thoughts how it may compare to a Sniper?

 

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Discussion Starter · #604 · (Edited)
First off, I don't run any 2.25 engines or series any longer (this could change, but right now, don't).
What you are showing in the picture is not Chevy 250 related and looks like the multi-port injection that Sarek installed on a 2.25 at their shop in Richmond, VA.
I only know that they first tried the Sniper BBD on the 2.25 before switching to multi-port.
The 2.25 was possibly short cycling the injectors to maintain satisfactory AFR, but you can verify directly with Ralf for the correct answer because am going by what I think happened and could be entirely wrong.
Also used the BBD and the small 2GC on the Chevy 250 (4.1L) which was a better fit because it's almost twice the swept volume of the Rover 2.25.
Both the BBD and the 2GC are 2 barrel Sniper TBI that look like a single barrel because they have one air inlet opening and will feed fueling needs for up to 350HP with Two 100lb/hr Injectors.
All this took place before the Sniper single barrel 1100 became available which should be a better match for the smaller displacement Rover 2.25.
The Sniper single barrel 1100 supports up to 175 HP with one 100lb/hr Injector, so is a better match for both the Rover 2.25 and the stock Chevy 250 that puts out about 160 HP.

Unlike the bolt on Sniper TBI which makes no changes, multi port injection for a factory carbureted engine requires modifications to the intake manifold that really can't be reversed.
This violates my principal that I only offer things that bolt in and can be unbolted if needed.
The Chevy 250 bolts into a Defender without making any changes what so ever to the host vehicle.
It's more of a bolt in engine install than a conversion.

You asked if I have ever ventured into multi-port EFI and the answer is no.

Thoughts on how the multi port injection will work in comparison to a sniper:
Multi-port injection is more precise.
The Sniper is more simplified.
Think of the Sniper as an electric carburetor with an ECU that constantly regulates the fueling and is self tuning.
The Sniper is a great choice for someone who doesn't want to deal with a less reliable manual carburetor, especially if they only drive their Land Rover occasionally and have to deal with the alcohol in todays fuel gumming things up.
The real question is that when you are dealing with engines under 200 HP like the Chevy 250 and under 100 HP like the 2.25, do you need multi-port injection?
For me that answer is no.
For a well known performance shop that works with electronically controlled engines and wants to have a fun project to display their savvy expertise, sure the answer is yes.
When it comes to multi-port injection, Sarek in Richmond know what they are doing.
Certainly more than I do.
 

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The FI doesn't work as advertised, it has many issues. I would advise anyone looking into it to join the holley sniper FB group. The system does not self learn, Has bugs, Cannot regulate fuel pressure, and worst of all if something is 1 1000 off on the head, exhaust anything for that matter it wont run. RFI is always blamed.

Its funny that the system will run flawlessly one day, I will park then it goes crazy. The next day it wont start and floods the engine.

I have replaced more than 6 internal fuel pressure regulators. 3 02 sensors, installed an external pressure regulator, shielded the wires and it still acts up. I only trust it around town.

Read the group posts and you will understand. Apparently the terminator is the way to go, the sniper is the entry level weekend cruiser toy that barely works.
Hey Hanzo, curious if your PCV valve was a fixed orifice one or not? I just finished my 250 install (still needs an exhaust) with a Sniper kit but before doing so, I found threads devoted to the havoc a variable PCV valve does to the Sniper EFI. Wondering if you've looked into the PCV valve as you didnt memtion it with all the items you've swapped. Have you gone back to carburetor or still dialing-in your EFI. Thanks
 

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Sarek's attempt at SFI on a standard-issue 2.25 is like throwing a set of gold plated DCOE's on there. Very nice, well executed, but the 2.25 remains a 2.25. It's a low compression, low RPM stump puller. It will be exquisitely fueled, but still won't climb a hill in 4th.
 
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1986 Land Rover 90 (currently..) 19j / lt77
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It just dawned on me that I'm not using the stock land rover temp sender; I'm using an AC Delco sender made specifically for the chevy 250. Should I be using the stock land rover temp sender since I'm using the stock temp gauge in my dashboard?

Hello.. I had your same problem .. ended up having to use my old landrover sender.. cheaper than swapping out the gauge.
 

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Thanks. I guess I am stuck with a 300 TDi swap!🙂
You should really consider the Cummins 2.8 before you go down that road. Doug Crowther (Uncle Douglas here) can give you an idea of the costs and benefits. If the truck is really worth doing, like rust free and in good condition, then it might be worth it if you plan to keep it a long time.
 
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You should really consider the Cummins 2.8 before you go down that road. Doug Crowther (Uncle Douglas here) can give you an idea of the costs and benefits. If the truck is really worth doing, like rust free and in good condition, then it might be worth it if you plan to keep it a long time.
Would be curious to hear that. The TDI swap seems really pricey for what you get. Mine is a 2 door in good condition so might be worth it. What is the cost for a conversion like this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #615 ·
You'll need to ask someone that does the Cummins and can provide an accurate estimate.
I wouldn't expect them to start throwing around conversion numbers for a Chevy 250, so am not about to provide an estimate for a conversion that I don't provide and am not an expert with.
 

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Yup, fixed orifice PCV was used. I believe most of my issues arise from the fact that my motor is not "new" I'm sure I have some blow by and my zinc motor oil probably wrecked havoc on my 02 sensor. But the whole tune itself thing is absolute crap, it must be tuned.
 

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Would be curious to hear that. The TDI swap seems really pricey for what you get. Mine is a 2 door in good condition so might be worth it. What is the cost for a conversion like this?
Call him. I have no idea how much it costs in time and money. It changes all the time with the way the world economy is going these days.
I will say that a 300 in a monstrous tank of a vehicle like a Range Rover is going to be slow. Jeff Bang did a conversion on his Classic and I believe he wasn't super happy about the performance on road. Pretty sure he sold it.
 

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1988 90 2.5L Petrol Converted to Chevy 250 4.1L w/ A/C
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Has anyone figured out a good stock option for a lower radiator hose (or hoses) to fit between the griffin radiator and the 250 motor water pump?
 

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Discussion Starter · #619 ·
Is yours RHD?
 

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I will say that a 300 in a monstrous tank of a vehicle like a Range Rover is going to be slow. Jeff Bang did a conversion on his Classic and I believe he wasn't super happy about the performance on road. Pretty sure he sold it.
I did sell it it.
If I did it again I would do a manual trans. That was part of the issue.
Or I would move to a flat state like Florida and the auto trans/300 would be happy. :)

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