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The FI doesn't work as advertised, it has many issues. I would advise anyone looking into it to join the holley sniper FB group. The system does not self learn, Has bugs, Cannot regulate fuel pressure, and worst of all if something is 1 1000 off on the head, exhaust anything for that matter it wont run. RFI is always blamed.

Its funny that the system will run flawlessly one day, I will park then it goes crazy. The next day it wont start and floods the engine.

I have replaced more than 6 internal fuel pressure regulators. 3 02 sensors, installed an external pressure regulator, shielded the wires and it still acts up. I only trust it around town.

Read the group posts and you will understand. Apparently the terminator is the way to go, the sniper is the entry level weekend cruiser toy that barely works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #565 ·
Have found if the engine is worn and burning oil, or the engine is passing anti-freeze, or has an exhaust leak, it will make the sniper issues much worse.
We have successfully installed the Autolite 1100 replacement Holley Sniper single barrel and it works great provided you use the external pressure regulator.
 

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1985 Ninety
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292 Posts
I had one of Holley's pro-jection many years ago and many people had issues with it, most of the problems with those units were people not grounding them well and not using the right size feed and return lines to the tank, mine worked just fine. I guess I will see if it works or not, but none the less I am all in and changing over to a carb is not that big of a deal if necessary.
 

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Sorry for the very basic, but ignorant question -- can someone tell me the order and how I put the labeled parts onto this 250" Engine I have on a stand?
I don't know what part A and part B are. I don't know the order in which they get attached to the engine. Does anyone have any advice? I'm not following the word document very well.

Also pictured is the little plastic piece and clutch slave @hanzo111 had suggested.

 

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Part A appears to have been the thrust bearing. The little plastic clip I had to buy appears to hold that into place comically (not at all?). New clutch cylinder is in. Going to attempt to put the clutch, bell housing, etc on the engine now. Looks like Part B will go into the Chevy engine. Working on that now. Friend who is helping me put this in has moved the time to tomorrow.

Have scraped out the bell housing, greased the new bearing, installed plastic clip that doesn't seem to matter. Still need to bleed that clutch slave (when friend arrives tomorrow) and hit it with compressed air probably. Air might push dirt into the grease also. Might need to redo all that or just ignore it.

 

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Partially stuck getting the starter in. Did have to grind off a little piece on the block to get it close. I’m toying with BF mallet or shaving metal. Any thoughts?

This isn’t required to solve while it’s out but it will be nicer.



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Discussion Starter · #571 ·
Did you get a copy of the installation guide?
It provides starter numbers for the smaller GM starter.
The much larger starter you have will not fit unless you do a lot of grinding and enlarge the hole in the dust shield which is not shown in the picture in post 568.
 
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Did you get a copy of the installation guide?
It provides starter numbers for the smaller GM starter.
The much larger starter you have will not fit unless you do a lot of grinding and enlarge the hole in the dust shield which is not shown in the picture in post 568.
Thank you. I have the dust shield. I will get the smaller starter. I see it in the instructions now.


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Sorry for the very basic, but ignorant question -- can someone tell me the order and how I put the labeled parts onto this 250" Engine I have on a stand?
I don't know what part A and part B are. I don't know the order in which they get attached to the engine. Does anyone have any advice? I'm not following the word document very well.

Also pictured is the little plastic piece and clutch slave @hanzo111 had suggested.

View attachment 475795
Please search for Chevrolet service manual. The flywheel must be torqued correctly. |Actually everything must be torqued correctly.
Part B must be installed into the end of the crank, If there is a bushing already there it has to be removed.
Part A will be dealt with and explained in the LR manual
Are those grade 8 bolts? If not go find some grade 8 bolts
Do you have the clutch alignment tool, looks like a splined dowel, if not, get one.
 

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Coworker walked me through the next steps. Used grade 8 bolts with locking washers as the manual suggested. Used engine builder flywheel bolts and torqued appropriately. Placed the bushing in with small film of grease. Aligned the clutch flywheel with a socket extension. Gently worked it in place using 2 5” guide bolts as advised. Those were places in the most pain in the ass places by mistake.

Coworker talked about gently seating the engine. Mentioned you can put the truck in gear and nudge it if you need to set or test the spindle seat. That all worked easy. It’s all bolted in.

Had to drill a few holes in the mounts but I’m not sure it’s needed. I haven’t seated it in the motor mounts fully yet. It’s still supported by the chain as a backup. There’s a chance those motor mount holes are completely perfect when I can start influencing it with the 4’ pry bar. I’ll pick it up tomorrow.

So far Robert’s stuff is as promised. Any sloppiness or mistakes that have happened are mine. I’m happy with the kit.


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Discussion Starter · #575 · (Edited)
The RHD setups are a little easier, especially if you have the factory mounts for the ancillaries like alternator, power steering, and AC compressor.
There was a member in the DC area that was selling his AC kit for a 200TDI who may have the compressor mount and extra pulleys.
All you would need is the custom lines made up for the under dash unit like I did with mine.
The rest will bolt in.

I have found that the Griffin radiator and matching electric fans fit perfectly as long as you make 4 mounting blocks out of aluminum and modify the upper radiator mounts to fit.
The Griffin radiator is 3 times thicker and has a much more efficient cooling capacity.
 

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The RHD setups are a little easier, especially if you have the factory mounts for the ancillaries like alternator, power steering, and AC compressor.
There was a member in the DC area that was selling his AC kit for a 200TDI who may have the compressor mount and extra pulleys.
All you would need is the custom lines made up for the under dash unit like I did with mine.
The rest will bolt in.

I have found that the Griffin radiator and matching electric fans fit perfectly as long as you make 4 mounting blocks out of aluminum and modify the upper radiator mounts to fit.
The Griffin radiator is 3 times thicker and has a much more efficient cooling capacity.
Awesome advise Robert.
I used a defender radiator (I believe from UKAR) for a v8 defender. I also used a duel fan SPAL electric fan. I fabricated aluminum mounts using angle aluminum from home depot and riveted it all together. works like a charm. My truck runs at a constant 190 degrees while moving during DC summers, fan kicks on when in traffic only. In winter I have to switch thermostats as the truck will not come up past 160 no matter what.
 

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1988 90 2.5L Petrol
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I have been running the stock 2.5L Petrol muffler setup with my Chevy 250 conversion, and while it does run super smooth and quiet, I'm sure that stock setup is restricting some power. I'd also like a little more growl/rumble to complement the new motor. Nothing too crazy, but right now it runs so smooth and quiet that it sounds like a Honda Accord :) I'm curious if anyone else has added a muffler setup that they like and that has a nice rumble to it?
 

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I’m running a borla 400477 proxs muffler. Sounds great

i’m also running mostly stock exhaust I just took out The extra resonator in the back. Burbles and gurgles but it’s not well at all inside
 
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