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4 are for the rear seal, 2 are for the front seal (timing cover). Since your search didn't specify one or the other, the RockAuto search results displayed both crankshaft seals, front and rear.

As mentioned earlier, the 4 options for the rear are interchangeable, you can just pick the one you like best. Same goes for the 2 front seal options.

 

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View attachment 473353
there does seem to be differences that’s why I was questioning which one
They are the same. there is only 1 design for the rear seal.
Buy the blue felpro and be done.

The rear main seal is an easy swap.
Remove the rear main cap

push the upper half of the seal out use a small flat tool and press on the exposed end of the seal. It will slide out of its seating in a circular motion. Use needle nose pliers to pull it out as it protrudes from the other side.

lube new seal, slide it into the grove of the old seal you just removed

Put a dab of RTV on the seal ends and torque the main bolts. Check values for your engine....

Watch from 0:35 seconds to 2:00 minutes...... very easy

Caveat emptor
 

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Discussion Starter · #543 · (Edited)
Assuming that all the pictures are of the exact part is not always a good idea, especially when both front and rear seals are shown.
If there was a reference to the manufactures part number, there would not be any confusion.
In our imperfect world, they are ALL functionally equivalent (that is all the front ones are the same & all the rear ones the same), obviously the front and the rear are different.
 
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Welcome to American manufacturing. It's all the same seal. Since that seal was used in about 5 billion different engines it comes as different kit from each manufacturer. Some will come outside seals some will come and install tools some will come with nothing some will be a different material.

It's all the same seal application with tiny variations in what's included or what it is designed to solve. For example the offset lip seal is designed to be used on a crank that has been worn and you don't want to replace the crank or machine it. You only get these options on engines That they built for 5 million different applications.
 

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Discussion Starter · #550 ·
Kenny:
We have a few left.
PM coming your way.
 
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1985 Ex MOD 110 (200tdi)
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Inspired by Robert’s Chevy/GM inline 6-292 conversion thread, I recently took on and just completed an engine conversion in my 1992 RHD Exmod Defender 90. All I can say is that the conversion is AWESOME! My 90 is now enjoyable to drive, can pull into traffic without fear of getting rear ended and doesn’t have the smell and knock of a diesel, which for me, was wicked desirable (I know diehards like the diesels). It is actually quite fast now and pulls great in all gears (hills I use to have to drop down to 2/3 gear are nothing in 4th). I still have some local reliability runs to make before I take any long trips, but I’m feeling optimistic.

I replaced my pitiful 12J (2.5NA) with a Chevy inline 6 (250/4.1L) from a 1968 Chevy Camaro. Although there are cheaper options, I chose to rebuild the engine locally, which did cost a bit more than some online options, but I wanted that local connection and ability to talk to the rebuilder face to face. This option did take a long time and did screw up my summer deadline, but it eventually came together and I’m hoping to enjoy at least 2 months of New England weather before putting her away for the winter.

Some details...

-I ended up getting a Scotty’s Adapter from Robert because his bell housing adapters weren’t ready yet and I was trying to get it on the road before summer, however I do plan to swap it out once his become available because I like his design better. They are the same depth, so it is an easy swap. Engine and transmission fit bell housing adapter with ease.

-I ended up having the motor mounts fabricated locally by a local hot rod shop, as I again was hoping to get it in the road for the summer and Robert’s RHD 250 mounts weren’t ready yet. Because of this I paid much more than I suspect his will cost, but it was the decision I made to try to get on the road faster. The mounts use the original chassis mount locations and original rubber pucks, so no changes needed and they just bolt in. The engine aligns with the mounts like it was meant to be there.

-My stock bonnet clears the top engine bits no problem.

-My engine had a 1 barrel Rochester Monojet carburetor, so I just rebuilt that and plan to use that for now. I would like to get the Holly Sniper EFI eventually, but need to figure out a new intake manifold too, so I’m going to wait. The 1brrl Monojet seems to work fine so far.

-Although I didn’t have to, I ended up switching my LT77 with a R380 stumpy from Ashcroft, but I still have the 1.4 LT230 and it seems fine even though it isn’t the 1.22.

-I decided to buy a new fuel tank and run a new fuel line rather than cleaning out and reusing the 27 year old tank. It was cheap enough, so I figured it was a good choice.

-I decided to buy and use the Revotec V8 electric fan kit and install it on my 2.5NA radiator, which was only a year old. The electric fans work great and eliminate the manual fan, which was around 3.5” away from radiator (with a 2” extension). The fans keep the engine running at 180 degrees no problem. the top radiator hose is from a BMW 318i. The fans weren’t designed for this radiator, but fit great and use the stock mounting pins and lower brackets.

- I have no crowding in any areas the engine at all, so the alternator and starter both have plenty of room. I currently have manual steering, which I don’t mind at all, so I don’t have a need for a power steering pump bracket. That said I will likely get a bracket from Robert in case I ever add it back (had PAS on it originally, but it never worked, so got a manual box to simplify).

-I purchased an inexpensive starter and alternator from DB Electrical for under $120 for both.

-I added an Electrical VDO oil pressure gauge and sender along with an Electrical VDO water temp gauge with sender. Both seem to work great...runs at or below 180. I did have to get a small 1/8” npt extension (1.5” from Lowe’s) to extend the oil pressure sender due to the thickness of the side covers and the block shape.

-I purchased nice cast valve and side covers from 12Bolt.com. These are thick, but very nice. The fins on the side cover had to be dremeled a bit for the distributor cap to fit.

-I am currently using my original exhaust with a hodgepodge downpipe, but plan to either get a new downpipe made this week or an entirely new exhaust at a local muffler shop. Current exhaust is fine if I get a new downpipe, but I would like to add a little rumble to it.

-The install can definitely be done in a weekend with a kit. Mine took longer since I pieced it together myself, but the install and removal is easy and with a kit would take out the guess work. I didn’t have any experience taking an engine out before this year and now I can remove and replace it within 1 day no problem.

-I used a throttle cable from a LHD 300tdi, which is pretty cheap and made my own bracket that mounts off the exhaust manifold.

Here are some pics...









Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Great looking engine!
 

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I did the same conversion. GM 250 replacing the 2.5NAS. I used the Holley Sniper and Hyperspark ignition. Would not go back to carb. Used the Holley 2300 so I could use the Clifford intake and the 12bolt dual exhaust. I kept the later style integrated head and had great success in tuning and performance, but I also added a 1 inch spacer that converted the 2GV to Holley 2300 and opened up the intake plenum. I can do 75 all day long. Remember that the Cubic flow is much less that a 300+ cubes V8. Not going to move more than 350 - 400 CFM unless you charge in air.
I am running a very similar set up.... 2300 12bolt manifolds, clifford, and MSD. I would love to see your tunes
 

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Discussion Starter · #554 ·
I'm interested in doing a swap into my S3 109, which I think you recommend the 4cyl for. Do you have any of those kits available? Sorry, couldn't find and thread about your series swaps.
Depending on the engine you use, but yes we have a few kits available.
 
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Felpro rear main seals were the ticket. I have a question I have the Saginaw pwr steering pump on my 250 conversion is squealing and it feels kinda of choppy/jerky, the pump is new(I’m not sure if it’s a rebuild), The belt is tight, the fluid is normal. It’s annoying as …hell. When the conversion was done per Roberts instructions there was supposed to be a Saginaw pressure reducing kit. I’m not sure if it was done it was with the conversion ….would not having that pressure reducing kit installed cause these problem with the pwr steering?..?
 

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Discussion Starter · #559 ·
With a 110 along the frame rail.
On a 90 you need to loop back far enough for the pre-filter, pump, and the primary filter.
 
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1988 90 2.5L Petrol
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Rebuilt and installed a chevy 250 bored .060 over, slightly more aggressive cam, and installed it with Robert's adapter kit, new R380 transmission and LT230 with 1.2 gear ratio. New motor runs like a champ, and the adapter worked like a charm. Like many have said on here before, the rover is now an absolute pleasure to drive! I was going to add a short video showing a clip form the test drive but I couldn't figure out how to attach a video to this post.



 

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