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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Friday update. Had a vacuum leak in the adapter I fabricated. New gasket and we are good. Adjusted timing. Tested the coolant fan and the relay controlled by the EFI. All working. Clutch engagement is good. Need to take a look at the LT230. It's in neutral. Don't think I have the high/low fork in it's slot...
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
So I started digging into the LT230. Drained the new gear oil out. Removed the linkage and the shift lever housing. Made sure the tab was making good contact with the high/neutral/low rod and working. Easy answer is yes working as designed. I had gone through it when I did the install. Next I had the assistant (wife) try to shift from high to low unlocked. No joy. Then she tried in locked and was able.to move from high to low. So I took that box off and investigated. Found it was gated. L shaped. So high and neutral on right (unlocked) and all three in locked. This was the top plate that has the rubber boot attached. Quick fix with some Power tools and no longer gated. Reinstalled, adjusted the linkage bar, and all working good. I did take it all apart and clean lube it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Got a small setback. After getting the EFI dialed in and the trans/xfer case working well, I found the head is cracked at the water jacket between cylinders 2 and 3. Now to undo ALOT of crap, pull the heavy beast and see if a local shop can fix. Either TIG or nickel brazing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
So the guy I got the engine from gave me two more heads. You would think I could make one of em work for me. Had the first one magna-fluxed to make sure it was not cracked. Ordered a new gasket set with the valve stem seals. Tomorrow I will tear it down, lap the valves, new seals and install. Just out me a couple weeks behind. The good is that I out new seals on the LT230 and all good to go there. Also fixed a pinhole in the washer bottle. Both front and rear pumps working. The good is, even with the cracked water jacket, the engine and EFI system are working really nice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So I am almost ready to put the new head assembly in. Head is cleaned up. Valves lapped. New seals. Then I took it to another level with the carb intake. As we all know there is not much that can be done with the intergrated head, especially with the 2 barrel rochester 2SE design. I used a cutoff wheel and cut the intake plenum OUT. Now it is the same dimension as the 2300 Holley. I then increased the side towards the three intake ports (center, forward, and rear). My original 2300 adapter I built will have no restrictions to the intake ports now. Tomorrow I will bolt everything up and fine tune the EFI. Pics are before and after. I still needed to clean it up for the final fit, but this is the idea.
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Today was a watershed moment. Was having issues with the EFI cutting out at about 2500 RPM. Then the Holley fuel pump quit. I jumpered it to confirm. Picked up a Spectre one for 100 bucks. Installed and purged the line. Went for a test fire and started. Checked static timing and was spot on. Checked for leaks and dropped her off the lift.
Went for a short 2 mile shakedown. Letter her cool off and I will recheck everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
So I now have about 250 miles on the setup. 235/70/16 tires. 3.75 hearing with a 1.211 center diff. Rpm at 110kmh is about 2500 and almost 3k at 120. As 110 I am at 16 percent throttle and 23 at 120. Upsizing tires to reduce some of the RPMs.
Tomorrow is have a set of relocation pins for the parabolic leaf springs. I will be moving the front axel back about an inch or so to get enough space for some 285/75/16 tires. Test fit they were rubbing the fender extensions in the front. Plus is am fitting longer shackle arms on the front and rear. From the original 3 inch to about 5 inches. Just a little lift for good measure. Also ordered some new fender flares that are 2 inches wider.
Second impressions of having the GM 250 vs the 12j. I could easily do 140 or more, but no need. Quiet is the TRUTH. Now is hear the trans whine and all the rattles and whistles. Amazing to think that I had to drive at 75/100 percent throttle to get to 110 and that was on a long flat. Now I barely touch the throttle through 4th gear. Typically maybe 25 % if I am hard acceleration. No need for more!
Radiator temps are perfect. Oil pressure is wired for both dummy light and bar based gauge. Last thing to sort from the original install is the fuel sending unit. Reads full so I am not sure what actual is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
o I did a few more things:
1. new shoes. 285/75/16 Essentially a 33x10 tire.
2. Fitted 50MM (1/15/16 in wheel spacers.
3. New Terrafirma Wide Wheel Arch Kit. This is a 2 inch wider than the original. Subtle difference in the Santana fender well sheet metal. There was no need to keep the existing ones as there is no gap between the wing and the wells.
4. 1 inch relocation plated fitted to the leaf spring perches. It's small but makes a nice visual improvement and helps with clearance on the front wing. No rubbing.
5. Taller leaf spring shackles. Again just a small change. Originals were 3.5 inches center to center. New ones are 5.25. Helps add to the visual and a bit more flex and travel.

Took her for the longest test drive, about 40 miles on a 70MPH Highway. Can talk in the cab now. RPM at 75 was right at 2950, which is what I expected. I stuck to 70 and she purred along at 2800.

The bad:
1. Door seals are crap. Very stiff so I will be replacing with Original LR soft ones. Same with the window track felts.
2. More sound proofing around the trans tunnel needed. hear the whine of the trans more than the engine.
3. Axle shaft teeth are worn (Rear axle). Gear backlash is fine, bit I have slop in the axle ends. Upon inspection the shaft teeth on the ends are worn and VERY loose, accounting for the clunk when I let out the clutch. Axles shafts and outer seals, as well as outer ends are ordered.
4. Have not sorted the Fuel gauge yet.

Oh, and the snorkel will be removed it is just there for decoration and not connected. Still have to refit the Grill, but need the buttons...

Here is a before and after pics.
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Surprised a 91 model has leaf springs and that engine originally. Is that a santana thing??? We didn't get anything after 84 with leaves downunder, or that series engine. (Thank god)
Looks like a good conversion, well done.

Now just need someone to make a barra conversion kit for us Aussies

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Surprised a 91 model has leaf springs and that engine originally. Is that a santana thing??? We didn't get anything after 84 with leaves downunder, or that series engine. (Thank god)
Looks like a good conversion, well done.

Now just need someone to make a barra conversion kit for us Aussies

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Yes it is a true Santana 2500. It's an 88 inch chassis, not the 90 of a Defender with coil springs. They did some nice upgrades to the Series chassis, like the parabolic leaf springs, but did stupid stuff like using the 12j engine.
 

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Great it's running well , what kind of economy are you getting?

I really want to do this sniper on my slant six .
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Right at 15. Probably get 18 I'd I wasn't a leadfoot. The difference in fuel flow between 70 and 75 is amazing. The engine likes to be around 2700 RPM. There are also some more tweeks I can do to the EFI. I have the timing advance locked at 32 BTDC at wide open. I might make it more agressive and see if that helps.
 

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I think the sniper does spark control for your setup, why not just let it handle it ?

15/16 is what I get with my 3.7l slant six and the stock 1bbl carb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
It is doing spark control. There is adjustments from dwell control as well as limits at WOT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
So, I did some more patterning with the RPM and tires. As it turns out, the LT230 that I purchased is a 1.41 not the 1.21 that it was supposed to be. I used The Ashcroft calculator (incredible tool) to figure it out. With the tire size, transmission type and differential ratio, I had to play a little but to get the numbers that matches what I am seeing. If I used the 1.21 and the 3.75 with the 32.8 tire diameter, I Should have been at 2500 rpm at 70. I was seeing closer to 2800. So I switched to the 1.41 and 3.54 and the number match right up. Here is the calc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
It had the same dimensions as a standard defender engine bay and the same mounts for the 200TDI/2.5TD/2.5NAS. Cab forward any defender body part can be swapped in.
 
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