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Gen 5 110 Restomod

50K views 327 replies 29 participants last post by  sgo70 
#1 ·
So I decided to start a build thread cause I'm starting to get too many random posts that are hard to keep track of, this will keep it all in one place and easier to ignore if I start driving everyone crazy with all my questions.;)


The truck was imported from the country of Georgia to Canada where it lived a life of neglect from what I can tell. I bought it as a project cheap as I wanted one for about 25 years and could never justify $60-70000 they go for here. I enjoy working on anything with a motor so that helps. Grew up poor so I had to fix it myself or ride my bike.


I appreciate all the help so far, it's helped me make a lot of decisions. So far I have the 2" lift kit coming from Gwyn Lewis, should be here on the 15th. Includes castor corrected kinked arms and rear links, HD steering and tie rods, bushing kit and a bunch of other stuff. I think that will take care of my steering and suspension problems as well as give me the lift.


Tires and rims will be coming off my Jeep JK. After searching for rims all day I ordered some 1.5" adapters to go from the Defender pattern to the Jeep 5 on 5 pattern. That opens up a world of rims with whatever size, backspacing etc I could ask for and I can take the set of five new rims and tires off my Jeep and replace with a cheaper set up since I'm going to sell it anyways. Adapters are custom made and only $85 each, takes about a week or so.


Picture of my new to me Defender and the Jeep for sale with my rims and tires. Cooper Discoverer STT pro's. Great all around tire.


Sean
 

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#3 ·
I knew the interior was going to need some work, I just didn't realize how much until today.


Wipers weren't working so I went looking for the motor, most of the dash was hanging on by a thread so it was pretty easy digging into it. The only problem was every screw imaginable was used at some point or another. I figure the drywall screws are stock because that's what I found most of.

Non of the heater system controls seemed to be doing anything either, I heard they weren't great but this was a bit much. As I dug deeper the left hand controls were attached to cut wires and the fan speed cable is seized. Great, I think I'm heading towards a big commitment now.


I noticed a lot of random wires and plugs not connected as well as some sketchy splices going off to a mystery location. I only had the lower dash by now so I figured I'll keep going. I found a lot of sharp edges in there and thought it funny that none of the wires have split loom on them at the very least.


So now I sit wondering which way to go. The dash is basically garbage, all cracked and broken, missing pieces etc. I think to try and find one in good shape is gonna be costly and it still won't fit a stereo loud enough to hear over all the noise in there lol. Puma swap seems expensive, Ministry of Defender has a nice looking kit that seems easy to do but I'm afraid of what it would cost to get it here and I would want it with the heat/ac system also.......


My other choice is to get out the Tig welder and fab something up out of aluminum. I have a 4x8 sheet in my garage left over from another project so that will be free. I think ducting would be fairly easy for heat/defrost, might even consider using a hot rod kit to add AC since I have the compressor which once again isn't hooked up to anything. I also have a small heater from my Model A that I never used that I could probably fit in the cubby facing the rear seats so my 4 year old son doesn't freeze.


Wondering if anyones ever moved the fuse panel and done a rewire, not a lot of wires in there when you actually look closely. Half of mine aren't even plugged into anything.



Lot's to think about.
Sean
 

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#6 ·
Had to get away from the computer today so I took off to see if dirt bike season was ready yet, still a bit of snow in the mountains. This is a picture of the area we go climbing were I'll be taking the Defender eventually when it's ready. Long ways from any cell phone service or help. Just over my mirror is The Real Big Drip ice climb, I can't believe it's still hanging, one of the hardest around, even just getting to the bottom of it.


https://gripped.com/profiles/epic-real-big-drip-ice-pillar-climbed-first-time/


Got home and did some thinking and measuring with a clear head and I think I can make this work. I chose this route mostly for the ease if installation and quality, I didn't want to have to do a new dash but custom it is, we'll see.



https://www.restomodair.com/shopproducts/vapir-iii-compact-custom-air-conditioning-system/


I'll relocate the wiring harness from the right side to the center, looks easier than I though. There's three big plugs and one little loom going into the engine I'll figure out. Half my wires aren't even connected to anything so I'm also thinking of installing a new fuse panel, Blue Sea maybe, to the firewall by drivers right knee.


The heater box will be coming out of the engine bay and holes filled for both this and wiring loom. Anyone want it??? Not sure it works but I'll post a picture when I get it out and test the fan.


Sean
 

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#7 · (Edited)
So making this rewire even easier is the fact nothing is hooked up, going to try to figure it out but if anyone knows off hand I would appreciate it. Got a bunch of painters tape I have to pull off to see which color wires I'll need to keep it clean. I assume that's heat proof painters tape, right???


Free heater box to whoever can tell all the wires!!! Hahaha, seriously.


First two plugs-do I really need to say where they are lol

Second picture is RH side twisted and small loom?
Third comes from the middle with the purple wired plug in the background
Fourth comes from RH side of the steering wheel.
 

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#8 ·
Man, you're just diving into it hand and feet!
Good luck and may the spirits of Land Rover be kind to you.


Georgia is a very poor country - expect surprises.
 
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#9 ·
Thanks, I'll need the help lol.


I have more cut wires than connected. I thought I saw a block heater cord behind the grill but after further inspection it ran into a relay that was wrapped around the alternator post to a cut wire and the other on a switch????


In this picture these two plugs, I thought, seem to be more of a distribution bus for power and ground. Is that normal, seems odd?



I'm starting to think a complete rewire would be easier than trying to separate the looms and pick through it and in the long run it will be better. I'm just going to see how the fuel tank and rear lights are run and then maybe start chopping. I always seem to have trouble with signal light circuits for some reason, I don't know why I can't get my head around them after doing so many.
 

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#15 · (Edited)
I didn't realize that, thanks.


I'll pull that stuff off too, I was worried I was going to break the connectors off.


I was hoping to get new connectors to maintain the old harness to new but I can't tell if they are Delphi or Deutsh or something else. I'll have to search for those now. I have one random purple wire that disappears into the passengers A-pillar that's bugging me, most of the rest I can trace back. I'll try to match color codes for future problems.



I've found some diagrams for other models and years but I can't find mine, is there a common color code they used for these. ie black-ground green -battery, purple switched ignition etc...??


edit:
I just found this, I'll compare it:
http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/Lucaswirecode.htm



Thanks Sparhawk-do you know Eli Tomac lol?



Thanks,
Sean
 
#12 ·
It should be easy enough to get a wiring diagram for a rest of world 300tdi 01 truck. I would keep the original harness. As you say there is not much there, but anything custom will be a nightmare to wire and also maintain (especially for the next owner).

I also think you can and should fix the dash. It’s basically just sheet metal covered in vinyl.
 
#16 ·
There's a workshop manual, available online. If I don't forget, I'll scan and post wiring diagrams from the British Hanes manual for the Defender (you should get it too if you intend to work on this vehicle yourself).


This is a newer wiring loom and most folks on this forum have older trucks (pre-1994 for ROW and pre-1997 for NAS).


Don't try to test the entire loom - just fix what's broken. It's very hard to do that by disconnecting everything and starting over.
If you disconnect everything and then try to find loose ends (especially without the wiring diagram) you'll end up throwing out the loom and getting a new one unnecessarily. Lots of stuff is disconnected and lots of loose ends in a standard Defender loom, don't let that confuse you.
Your lights, etc., aren't necessarily a wiring problem - it could be bad earth too and that problem is not resolved by replacing the wiring.
 
#18 ·
Those are not plugs you are asking about they are junctions blocks. If you need a wiring manual PM me with an email address and I’ll send you a pdf one.
 
#19 ·
Thanks guys, I haven't even been able to get to garage today, sooooo busy on computer and about six boxes coming from Gwynn today!!!!!

4RF- I never thought to look up lol. the wire goes downwards for as far as my finger can go in there, Im gonna check that out. Good one.




Sean
 
#20 ·
Finally some good stuff. Decided to just order the shocks and springs from Gwyn Lewis as well and eat the shipping cost. Probably be the same price in the end as the guy from California says I have to pay to ship parts from ARB USA to him in California and then from there to my house. I'm like"ever heard of drop shipping???".


Also decided on a new Fuse/Relay block:


https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46354/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-15401-2-0-1-0A-RFRM/


That'll cover it all plus any future upgrades I might want to add.


Sean
 

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#194 · (Edited)
Finally some good stuff. Decided to just order the shocks and springs from Gwyn Lewis as well and eat the shipping cost. Probably be the same price in the end as the guy from California says I have to pay to ship parts from ARB USA to him in California and then from there to my house. I'm like"ever heard of drop shipping???".


Also decided on a new Fuse/Relay block:


EATON's Bussmann Series 15401-2-0-1-0A RFRM Fuse Block | Waytek


That'll cover it all plus any future upgrades I might want to add.


Sean
450005

I went with an Eaton fuse block as well. I found this unit that’s waterproof with fuses relays and wire leads included for around a $100.
 
#22 ·
That's what I was going to do but I had a hard time finding the part numbers he gave me. Pretty good of him to do that I thought, so I just asked him to send them, they're three times the price here in Canada so I still feel like I'm getting a deal.


Found a good link for wiring that gave me some extra courage to start chopping wires:


Lucas wire colour codes for Land Rover


A bit easier to make sense of the diagrams I have for a '97 and a 2002 but not really the same as my 2001 by looking at what was in front of me. I'm starting to think those random plug looking things are diodes or voltage regulators of some sort. Between those and all the ground wires you're not left with much. I'm going to go into the engine bay and see what else I can chop and replace with new then I'll figure out what I need for Delphi connectors and hopefully have all new plugs and wires in the end.


Tried to go slow and methodical, figuring out where each wire is going and narrowed down some of the random unknown ones and this is all I'm left with to figure out after three hours.


Sean
 

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#24 ·
Yeah I actually got Gary at TRS trying to find me something. I'm just trying to figure out what the relays are. I got the start relay and the headlight relay which I'll change for daytime running lights and higher power but I'm not sure what the middle one or the two bigger ones to each side are. I'm guessing something like glow plugs and heat box maybe fuel pump, higher draw items??? I also thought maybe the two big ones could be switched ignition power to the fuse panel or something.....got tired and had to quit.


Also have to go through all the warning lights and see where the sensors pick up as well I'm bracing myself for VDO gauges since my tires are going to be 34".



Add to the list better headlights. I'm afraid something like Trucklights might have to go in for my dimming eyes as I get older lol.


Sean
 
#25 · (Edited)
Typically, you have relays behind the fuse panel and behind the instrument panel. In yours you will also have relays under the passenger as well as the driver seat. You could also have glowplug timer relay in the engine compartment. There are a bunch of relays, depending on what you have in your rig (HRW relay and voltage sensing switch that looks like a relay, started relay, headlight relay, heater blower relay, cooling fan relay (if electric), flasher, fuel pump relay, main relay, glow plug relay, etc.).

It's easier to identify components, relays, fuses and wires while everything is still connected and energized. Once it's been disconnected, and especially once you start chopping wires, you might as well be rebuilding the loom from scratch or get a new harness. There are a lot of loose ends in a standard harness that only get connected in certain situations, so if you try to find match for every connector, you'll go mad.
I don't suppose you can reconnect everything the way it was when you started and start over?
 
#26 ·
Haha, no chance of that, over half of it wasn't connected and there were open ends, nicks and cuts everywhere anyway. I'm trying to follow wires through to where they terminate that's why it's taking me so long. Do you know of a good complete harness kit, that would be a lot easier?


Nothing under the drivers seat, haven't checked passenger side will do that today.


I keep seeing ECU alarm in the wiring schematics but I'm not sure what that is??? I thought the chime or buzzer for the warning lights, IDK.



Thanks,
Sean
 
#27 ·
Do you know of a good complete harness kit, that would be a lot easier?
Yah, Sean, Autosparks in UK - best source for a new wiring loom, I posted a link previously (https://www.autosparks.co.uk/finder).
There was a fella in US who was also fabbing new looms, mostly chassis looms, but I'm not sure he'd be able to build newer 300TDI and for Canada, it might be the same price to get it from UK.
500 quid is not that much if you actually can't use your loom and have to rebuild it anyway.
 
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