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Discussion Starter #142
A little more sanding today to get it down to 600 grit on the body panels and bulkhead, everything else was 400. I put the seam sealer down wherever I could think of but I imagine I'll find more places along the way. Shot a coat of epoxy sealer then two coats of paint on the interior and three plus a control coat on the exterior. It's a single stage pearl metallic so I was expecting a lot of problems but as far as I can tell it turned out good, never done that kind of paint before. It's a little glossier than I expected from a satin paint but I actually like it more that way. Looks the same as the primer in the pictures.

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #144
I bagged up the truck at raised it to the ceiling to get ready for more paint. My rear side panels had a bunch of carriage bolts drilled into them all around the sides and back, I pulled them and welded all the holes but that caused a lot of warpage in the thin sheet metal, so I stripped the frames and bought a piece of 0.065 aluminum (couldn't find 0.05 that was on there). I have a metal brake but I had to do it all with a hammer and a piece of plywood because it was too long. 0.065 is quite tough and after hammering about 25' of flanges my arm was toast.
The top flange doesn't really have any room to hammer it on the frame so I bent in over a piece of 1/8" steel for a snug fit, once on I could hammer the bottom and then just snug up the top will a hammer hitting the side of a chisel.....worked pretty well. I used the Sikaflex 252 on the panels otherwise I could have done both top and bottom that way and slid it on. Flush head aircraft rivets were used in place of the spot welds and pop rivets for a cleaner look. primed, painted and ready to go on.....roof next.

Sean
 

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Took a few pictures of the cross flow rad from Ron Davis for another member. Inlet/Outlet both on drivers side, tranny cooler on passenger side based on Nicks Design and measurements.(dimensions that is).

Sean
So how much fun was it trying to get those tight curves for these inlet and outlet? I'm going to move that engine back once I get a decent garage to work in. I can't stand the fact that the engine is so far forward.
 

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I can't find your accelerator Pedal mod.. Can you send me some specs or a good photo? I just got my vette pedal to undo the crazyness I did. What I did works but it's redneck as hell. I'm thinking to just cut out the top of the floor pan and create a box to put it in so I don't have to weld anything. That is some thick metal on that pedal and I don't have gas to weld something that thick.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
I just cut it in the middle and taped it to some cardboard then drew it out. I think I used 3/16" steel.
The pedal is basically 90 degrees to the mount, I can try to get out to the garage and measure it tomorrow if I can find it in my mess.

I haven't mounted the rad yet, I'm just trying to get the painting done so I'm sure it will be a PIA but I had a hell of a time getting something to fit my JK swap having to run it across......we'll see if it was a good idea or not lol.

Thanks for the comments Damage Inc

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #149
Yeah I wish the engine was further back but I think the bulkhead foot wells might need some mods for the manifolds to clear then. I don't think you could go any lower without the driveshaft taking out the knock sensor (if that's what it is down there, I forget), I'm kinda worried about it as it sits because I haven't dropped it down to the bumpstops yet.

Sean
 

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Yeah I wish the engine was further back but I think the bulkhead foot wells might need some mods for the manifolds to clear then. I don't think you could go any lower without the driveshaft taking out the knock sensor (if that's what it is down there, I forget), I'm kinda worried about it as it sits because I haven't dropped it down to the bumpstops yet.

Sean
You'll be fine. I've bottomed out plenty of times out wheeling and nothing hits. 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #153
You're easing some of my worries, thanks lol.

I don't know if you can see in the picture I mounted a 1/8" metal plate around both the brake pedal opening and the throttle pedal and then welded them in and drilled the mount holes through. Also put a plate on the exterior for the throttle pedal to stiffen everything up. Hindsight I should've just rebuilt both foot boxes.

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #154
More painting, more sanding, more painting. The worst paint bay imaginable, I need to re-think this. I've smashed my head about 678 times and the lighting sucks and I hate painting on a flat horizontal surface. Ok, boo hoo lol.

The sides and windshield frame are done and I'm happy with them. The roof needed to be sanded down and a dent needed hammered out, I was going to go to bare metal but the paint was really tough, I figured it must be a good base so I threw a few layers of epoxy on it and wetsanded down to 600 again. I filled the seams with 3M 5200 and it bubbled up overnight, I think there must've been some wax and grease remover still off gassing in the seam so I had to peel it up. I read that it might not be compatible with some single stage paints like I'm using so I went with some RV sealant instead.

While the sealant was drying I got on to ceramic coating my exhaust. That is by far the nastiest **** I have ever sprayed in my life. I ducked under to get to the other side and it burned my eyes. I took my mask off while I was cleaning my gun and it made my cough, and this was outside with a breeze blowing. I hope to never touch it again, I really have to try not to scratch it until I can get it baked on.

I don't really like the look of base coat/clear coat so I tried single stage black for a couple of coats and then another couple of coats mixed 50/50 black and clear. It's glossy now just to show all the imperfections and mistakes to it's fullest. I got a new Devilbiss Plus gun and I'm not used to how much paint comes out of it so of course there's some orange peel but I'll never see it on the roof so, it stays.

Sean
 

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This is one epic build. You are making the dream defender for sure, nice one. Your skills are amazingly superb. Are you a prof pilot? I am also thinking, hmm why is he not putting in air ride? I mean .. restomod and air ride are kind of a givin 😝Can you give some additional detail on the air con install?
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Thanks for the compliment, grew up very poor so we had to do everything ourselves, now I'm just too cheap to pay anyone else to do it lol. I like solid axles and springs to bounce along all our potholes. Yep , been flying 737's for about 17 years now. Thousands of hours of ass time with ADHD gives me a lot of time to research stuff.

It seems like a pretty easy set-up, hook up two coolant lines and two refrigerant lines with a dryer and overpressure valve as well as a condenser. Kwikperformance sent me the compressor with the brackets and I got three controllers from Restomod. Can also be run by bluetooth if I go with the Ipad head unit but given how quickly that kind of tech changes I'm kinda second guessing that. I was worried about not having a fresh air intake and the windows fogging up in the winter but he assured me it won't. I would have gone with the Ministry of Defenders unit but with shipping and exchange it was about 3 times as much and I suspect the Restomod unit to be more powerful. Also gave me a place to mount dual batteries.

Sean
 

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Thanks for the compliment, grew up very poor so we had to do everything ourselves, now I'm just too cheap to pay anyone else to do it lol. I like solid axles and springs to bounce along all our potholes. Yep , been flying 737's for about 17 years now. Thousands of hours of ass time with ADHD gives me a lot of time to research stuff.

It seems like a pretty easy set-up, hook up two coolant lines and two refrigerant lines with a dryer and overpressure valve as well as a condenser. Kwikperformance sent me the compressor with the brackets and I got three controllers from Restomod. Can also be run by bluetooth if I go with the Ipad head unit but given how quickly that kind of tech changes I'm kinda second guessing that. I was worried about not having a fresh air intake and the windows fogging up in the winter but he assured me it won't. I would have gone with the Ministry of Defenders unit but with shipping and exchange it was about 3 times as much and I suspect the Restomod unit to be more powerful. Also gave me a place to mount dual batteries.

Sean
I'm just too cheap to pay anyone else to do it....... exactly. I am in that same boat. Iam a Pvt pilot I get the ADHD. I tour with bands and normally have hours of down time to reasearch stuff in nauseum, which sometimes just leads to not making any decision at all. Haha. But since my industry is completely shut down for what appears to be a months in the future I can only do projects that do no cost $$ and are labor items only for now. I agree with you about not using screens and blutooth stuff. Whatever I build will have buttons and switches that wont get forward teched out. Best Jonathan
 

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Yeah I wish the engine was further back but I think the bulkhead foot wells might need some mods for the manifolds to clear then. I don't think you could go any lower without the driveshaft taking out the knock sensor (if that's what it is down there, I forget), I'm kinda worried about it as it sits because I haven't dropped it down to the bumpstops yet.

Sean
did you engine mount in the RW mount adaptor location or move the engine back a few inches? Sorry, reread and see you are at the standard location.
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Yep. I would have liked to go back a bit but then the exhaust would be tight against the foot boxes and would require a sharp bend right off the manifold, probably could be done.

Sean
 

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Started this yesterday, ordered three different pumps before I decided on my original Silverado pump. The Gen 5 engines have a PWM pump so no return line, it's modulated by the ECM and a big mystery in the Google world. After texting Manny (YankeeLandee) I got it straightened out what goes where. There's just the feed line and two plugs and I couldn't figure out what the other two lines were for except the EVAP system I thought. I confirmed this with Manny because these other two lines are connected to a roll over vent valve underneath which was confusing me.

I used 1/8"aluminum, kinda wanted stainless but I already had the aluminum. I also wanted more baffles but with the pump and sender I could've put a couple more small ones but I didn't think it was needed. I have one down the center for side to side movement. I don't think front to back with cause any problems. Of course one of my best welds will never be seen, it's on the bottom of the adapter ring lol. The gap got a little wide on the bottom left but it sure felt good after my fiasco of welding the baffle in. Trying to fit two arms and a head inside half the tank wasn't so cool, lots of blind welds there. Not to mention the heat coming out of that thing since I welded both the interior and exterior seams, I had the garage door open at 2 degrees outside and I was sweating like crazy.

Sean
Tank looks awsome. how many gallons?
 
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