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Discussion Starter · #261 ·
Okay, now on to the big news. My AC sensor plug finally showed up and I got all my wiring done except for my latching relay for my high beam switch. I ran all the wires for that and just looped them off to the side because I can get at them easily later.

FINAL EXAM DAY. I couldn't get up the nerve to start plugging all the electrical in until this morning when I decided it was time to test it all out. Dropped in the ANL fuses one at a time and no sparks or smoke so that was a relief. Then off to a bad start. I went to switch on the push button ignition and nothing happened. Tested all the power and grounds and all was good so I was kinda stumped. Made a quick phone call and they gave me a couple things to check and problem solved. I had hooked up the keyless entry to the accessory bus instead of the hot bus, woohoo!!!

Next was the lighting. I started with the signals and hazards.......nothing happened. Once again went around testing everything, jumped power to the steering column plug lights came on. Relays were getting power, even swapped them, still nothing. About an hour later I found a different LED relay in my garage and tried it out. Like magic everything worked again, both my original relays were bad even though I used them to figure out my wiring.....wierd.

After that it's been mostly dumb stuff like adding a fuse for the switch but forgetting the one for the relay or vis versa. The only other mistake I found was once again having my headlights on the hot bus but the switch on the switched bus, doesn't work all that well lol.

Gauges all work as well as the heat/AC unit although I can't actually check the AC until I get the engine running. That thing blows hard, I was really happy to see how much air it pushes. Overall I'm ecstatic about this. I ran out of fuses so I have to get more so I can get the engine harness hooked up and test the reverse switch, starter, rad fan etc. and wrap this all up......finally. This was probably the hardest part of the build for me and really took the wind out of my sails but I learnt so much about wiring along the way.

Sean
 

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Okay, now on to the big news. My AC sensor plug finally showed up and I got all my wiring done except for my latching relay for my high beam switch. I ran all the wires for that and just looped them off to the side because I can get at them easily later.

FINAL EXAM DAY. I couldn't get up the nerve to start plugging all the electrical in until this morning when I decided it was time to test it all out. Dropped in the ANL fuses one at a time and no sparks or smoke so that was a relief. Then off to a bad start. I went to switch on the push button ignition and nothing happened. Tested all the power and grounds and all was good so I was kinda stumped. Made a quick phone call and they gave me a couple things to check and problem solved. I had hooked up the keyless entry to the accessory bus instead of the hot bus, woohoo!!!

Next was the lighting. I started with the signals and hazards.......nothing happened. Once again went around testing everything, jumped power to the steering column plug lights came on. Relays were getting power, even swapped them, still nothing. About an hour later I found a different LED relay in my garage and tried it out. Like magic everything worked again, both my original relays were bad even though I used them to figure out my wiring.....wierd.

After that it's been mostly dumb stuff like adding a fuse for the switch but forgetting the one for the relay or vis versa. The only other mistake I found was once again having my headlights on the hot bus but the switch on the switched bus, doesn't work all that well lol.

Gauges all work as well as the heat/AC unit although I can't actually check the AC until I get the engine running. That thing blows hard, I was really happy to see how much air it pushes. Overall I'm ecstatic about this. I ran out of fuses so I have to get more so I can get the engine harness hooked up and test the reverse switch, starter, rad fan etc. and wrap this all up......finally. This was probably the hardest part of the build for me and really took the wind out of my sails but I learnt so much about wiring along the way.

Sean
That photo is why I’m still not fully committed - though my wife would say it runs deeper than that lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #268 ·
That photo is why I’m still not fully committed - though my wife would say it runs deeper than that lol
That photo might also explain why it was sitting up in the rafters for the last few weeks as well lol.

Hey Bal, good to hear from you again. I went out and double checked it and I got it right. I have both outlets on the one side and they cross over so it probably looks wrong in the picture. Just to be sure, the thermostat goes into the top smaller outlet and the water pump goes to the lower bigger inlet, right????

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #269 ·
I got a call from the Line-x guy the other day, I had actually forgotten I sent him some stuff to coat. I don't have anywhere to store it so I figured I'd put it all on. I was really surprised when he said he was only gonna charge me $1100 for everything because he took so long. He sandblasted, primed, coated, and then painted them satin black so it's easier to clean. I'm super happy how it turned out. I gotta find some front arches and cut the inner fender part out before I can actually mount my flares. If anyone nearby has some broken or cracked ones I'll buy them off ya.

Maybe it's time to get back at this.

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #270 ·
Well summer is over here, getting cold out so it's back to my cave. Took a long break to enjoy the time with my 7 year old son motorbiking, camping, downhill mountainbiking, rock climbing and just having fun this summer. I took some time in the spring to build a toy hauler/camper, did a bunch of work on my Jeep and sanded it down for new paint. Got it up for sale now as I'm hoping to be driving the Defender soon.

Had a shipment from Rovers North that I dug into. Mounted the new adjustable track bar, new headlight buckets with some LED lights I decided to try out. Finishing up the engine bay, just need to find my plug for the EVAP purge valve then fuel lines, transmission cooler lines, and steering box hoses and I think that's it there.

Now I learned taking a 6 month break just before you complete a complete front to rear re-wire isn't the best idea lol. I had a digital Guard Dawg system with remote start/alarm/keyless entry/push button start all wired in and started testing everything. Turns out I had a bad module and it prevented me from being able to turn anything on. To say it was frustrating is an understatement. So, because I like to overreact times ten, I ripped the whole thing out. I didn't want to have to rely on some little module that could completely disable the whole truck, bad design.

Now I have a regular keyed ignition and went with a Viper system. Only problem with a Viper is they don't support DIY installers and won't provide any information on it but I think it's a way better system. There's about 50-60 wires coming off this thing and it took a lot of research before I think I have it all figured out using about half of them. Made a complete mess of my wiring, unbundling, pulling apart, rerouting, splicing, but I think I have all but one wire that I had to figure out again. Hopefully today I will power it up and test everything and wrap it all up.

Sean
 

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Well summer is over here, getting cold out so it's back to my cave. Took a long break to enjoy the time with my 7 year old son motorbiking, camping, downhill mountainbiking, rock climbing and just having fun this summer. I took some time in the spring to build a toy hauler/camper, did a bunch of work on my Jeep and sanded it down for new paint. Got it up for sale now as I'm hoping to be driving the Defender soon.

Had a shipment from Rovers North that I dug into. Mounted the new adjustable track bar, new headlight buckets with some LED lights I decided to try out. Finishing up the engine bay, just need to find my plug for the EVAP purge valve then fuel lines, transmission cooler lines, and steering box hoses and I think that's it there.

Now I learned taking a 6 month break just before you complete a complete front to rear re-wire isn't the best idea lol. I had a digital Guard Dawg system with remote start/alarm/keyless entry/push button start all wired in and started testing everything. Turns out I had a bad module and it prevented me from being able to turn anything on. To say it was frustrating is an understatement. So, because I like to overreact times ten, I ripped the whole thing out. I didn't want to have to rely on some little module that could completely disable the whole truck, bad design.

Now I have a regular keyed ignition and went with a Viper system. Only problem with a Viper is they don't support DIY installers and won't provide any information on it but I think it's a way better system. There's about 50-60 wires coming off this thing and it took a lot of research before I think I have it all figured out using about half of them. Made a complete mess of my wiring, unbundling, pulling apart, rerouting, splicing, but I think I have all but one wire that I had to figure out again. Hopefully today I will power it up and test everything and wrap it all up.

Sean
PLEASE post pics of the EVAP and purge valve when you do it. I am not looking forward to that part. The lights look awesome! Glad you had a lot of fun with your son this summer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #272 ·
Thanks dude, you've been moving along quite nicely yourself, gives me inspiration. I have to figure out how to wire this solenoid up. I dug through my original harness and cut off the connector but I have to figure out how to wire it. Speartech didn't have the solenoid wired into my harness so I had to run a wire from the ECM (have to look up the pin again if you need it) but it signals anyway so no programming needed. So this signal wire comes off the ECM to the solenoid and I'm pretty sure the other wire is a 12V+ constant so I'm assuming the ECM gives it a ground when required cause there's no other wires. Also I don't know which wire is which on the connector so I'll have to dig into the wiring schematics.

On a good note I tested my entire electrical system, well as much as I could without running the engine, and it seems to be all good now after a few minor hick-ups. Kinda funny, I couldn't get the reverse lights to come on as I have them running through Swaptimes Muscle car module and into a relay. Messed around chasing wires etc and finally texted Mitch and he tells me it has to be running to work. Other problem was my high beam selector. I got a momentary switch on the signal lever then it runs through an Ididit latching relay then to the headlight relay and it kept going to high beam and wouldn't come off. This was a tough one to figure out as I assumed it was something I did. Turns out I finally tested the relays and I had a bad one, works great now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #273 ·
Well that was easier than I thought. Violet/blue to 12v+ and Grn/blue to pin 51 on ECM for Gen V, think it's 10 for Gen 4.

As far as the vent valve, it is normally open so I won't even wire it up cause it's not required here and I don't need to test the system which is the only reason to have it working. I'm just hooking it up so my garage doesn't smell like gas.

Sean
 

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Well summer is over here, getting cold out so it's back to my cave. Took a long break to enjoy the time with my 7 year old son motorbiking, camping, downhill mountainbiking, rock climbing and just having fun this summer. I took some time in the spring to build a toy hauler/camper, did a bunch of work on my Jeep and sanded it down for new paint. Got it up for sale now as I'm hoping to be driving the Defender soon.

Had a shipment from Rovers North that I dug into. Mounted the new adjustable track bar, new headlight buckets with some LED lights I decided to try out. Finishing up the engine bay, just need to find my plug for the EVAP purge valve then fuel lines, transmission cooler lines, and steering box hoses and I think that's it there.

Now I learned taking a 6 month break just before you complete a complete front to rear re-wire isn't the best idea lol. I had a digital Guard Dawg system with remote start/alarm/keyless entry/push button start all wired in and started testing everything. Turns out I had a bad module and it prevented me from being able to turn anything on. To say it was frustrating is an understatement. So, because I like to overreact times ten, I ripped the whole thing out. I didn't want to have to rely on some little module that could completely disable the whole truck, bad design.

Now I have a regular keyed ignition and went with a Viper system. Only problem with a Viper is they don't support DIY installers and won't provide any information on it but I think it's a way better system. There's about 50-60 wires coming off this thing and it took a lot of research before I think I have it all figured out using about half of them. Made a complete mess of my wiring, unbundling, pulling apart, rerouting, splicing, but I think I have all but one wire that I had to figure out again. Hopefully today I will power it up and test everything and wrap it all up.

Sean
I have push button start on my 71 corvette,Expensive one. its coming out. Same thing, got stranded a few times. Never again, going for KEYS!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #275 ·
I wish I could find a nice dash mount ignition switch though, I got the Painless one which is probably the best I could find I just don't like the small key.

Sean
 

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I wish I could find a nice dash mount ignition switch though, I got the Painless one which is probably the best I could find I just don't like the small key.

Sean
Totally agree. not much out there. probably just have to put a cover on the key..





 

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Hi Sean, Well after a year, I may get to put this engine (L83) in over this winter. Iam looking at this bracket set
I like the idea of the PS pump being on top - easy to get to as well as less hoses and no remote res. Looking at your (amazing) rig it looks like it should fit.. whats your thoughts? looks like the PS pump would fit in where the A/C pump is on yours. Im still having A/C, but it would be in the lower position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #278 ·
That's great to hear, I gotta get back to mine, I keep getting distracted. My intake hugs quite tightly to the AC compressor and just clears the hood but if you mount the engine back a couple of inches I think you could run the intake behind the headlight like the other member does, I think it was One-ten, I'd have to go back and find his picture in my thread here. Then you wouldn't have any concerns including the rad. I'd like to take a closer look and measure it but it's up on the lift with half my garage under it right now. I'll be back at it after Christmas if you're not in a hurry.

Sean
 

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That's great to hear, I gotta get back to mine, I keep getting distracted. My intake hugs quite tightly to the AC compressor and just clears the hood but if you mount the engine back a couple of inches I think you could run the intake behind the headlight like the other member does, I think it was One-ten, I'd have to go back and find his picture in my thread here. Then you wouldn't have any concerns including the rad. I'd like to take a closer look and measure it but it's up on the lift with half my garage under it right now. I'll be back at it after Christmas if you're not in a hurry.

Sean
Thanks , not in a hurry. I will be pushing the engine back maybe 2 1/2. We will have to see where the headers land against the footwells. Im hopeful that will leave me lots of room for intake and fan access. happy holidays!
 

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Discussion Starter · #280 ·
I haven't said much in the last few months, been pretty busy with some other stuff but kinda getting back at it now.

I did rebuild my axles, I won't get into a write-up because most of my questions were answered here:


As well I found the Trailfitters Toolbox had some really great videos:


I had a huge assortment of little things I had to get done that were pretty time consuming, wiring the power windows and door locks took some thinking as well as trying to get my engine running came with a few hiccups. Got windshield glued in instead of using the rubber seal, turned out great, I was really impressed by Kraig at Dominion Glass here in Calgary. He also explained to me how to glue in the rear window and gave me what he thinks is the best adhesive to use. The windshield is 6mm glass cut from a semi-truck window so I could chose how much tint at the top and apparently a bit stronger than standard glass IDK??? For the sides we used 5mm glass which fits nice in the cheaper aftermarket channels, a little snug in the original Land Rover stuff though.

The conversion for power windows and door locks for the front doors was easy bolt on using SP doors and inner panels, thanks to Javelinedave for his writeup on the internet. I was expecting more to it but it was just bolt on. For the door locks I used Dakota Digital, I had some Amazon ones I tested that seemed weak, these DD ones are absolute hammers (10lbs force they say). Easy to mount on to the door panels as well.

Inner door panel RH BDO710020 x1
Inner door panel LH BDO710030 x1
Electric Window Regulator LH CUH000090 x1
Electric Window Regulator RH CUH000082 x1

For wiring I used relays instead of a control box that could fail. Two relays for the locks all daisey chained together and two to feeding each door for the windows. I think if you use the Carling switches they're rated for 20 amps so it would be enough and a lot easier but I think it would wear it out quicker.

New gas cap also.

Sean
 

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