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I have an '84 v8 110 that has shown full on the gas gauge the entire 2 weeks that I've owned it, even after several runs that usually burn 1/8 of a tank each on my RRC. The prior owner says that it eventually does start dropping to empty & the warning light turns on. Could this be an issue with the entire sender being installed at the wrong rotational angle relative to horizontal, or does the arm that holds the float pivot independently to it's own proper angle for the level of fuel in the tank?

Or some other known issue? I've seen the posts describing a ground problem that causes the gauge to stay on full & another issue with the float getting stuck at the top of the tank, but neither of those scenarios seem to allow the needle to eventually show empty.
 

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It could be the sending unit, the gauge, or a bad ground. The resistance could be a little off for the gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Still tinkering with this...i ran the gas low enough to get a warning light & drained the tank hoping for some ez clues. It was only several inches in the bottom of a Homer bucket, so the warning light is or was fairly useful. The needle began moving towards 3/4 tank & still shows 3/4 tank with the tank completely drained. Fairly functional scenario, assuming that is consistent.

But, I'm stuck on the sender ground: the gauge goes from E to 3/4 when I turn on the key with the tank drained no matter whether the sender ground is connected or not. I've run out of ideas for cleaning up this ground...is it possible that the ground is good even though disconnecting it makes no difference in the gauge's quirky readings? IE, is it possible that this ground makes no difference in my rig's actual gauge function?
 

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My 88 has a green, white, and black wire push connectors on top the sender in the tank. The white wire connection (middle)was lose and created the same issue for me until I tightened the blade connector...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My 88 has a green, white, and black wire push connectors on top the sender in the tank. The white wire connection (middle)was lose and created the same issue for me until I tightened the blade connector...
Hmmm, I have black, white, & green also. Unplugging the green wire sends it to "E", but it stays on 3/4 when I unplug the white one. From your experience, it sounds like I need to work on that white-wire connection somehow, but giving the blade-style female some squeezes with my small needle-nosed pliers didn't help...

And now that I've put gas back in it after draining the tank, (2.5 gallons of 0% ethanol), it won't start. :(
 

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The needle began moving towards 3/4 tank & still shows 3/4 tank with the tank completely drained. Fairly functional scenario, assuming that is consistent.
There is really only one real way to tell if the sender is working.
Remove it, ground it with the leads connected, switch the key on, move the float up and down and watch the needle on the gauge.

If it at all is off only you can decide how to deal with it.
A V8 LR engine is very thirsty, so you need an accurate gauge or a jerry can with 5 gallons of fuel to avoid being stranded.

Personally I replace the sender if it appears at fault and never try and adjust my compensation of a faulty the gauge reading.
Perhaps this is a result of having too many different Rovers, but you get the point.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I put another gallon of gas in the tank & it still wouldn't start, so something posted in another thread re fuel pump problems after draining the tank prompted me to order a new fuel pump, which I installed last night & now it's starting again. New fuel filter element coming, too. Also, while the tank was still drained, I inserted my inspection camera in the drain opening to try & get a look at the sender. I couldn't make out much but some random parts of the sender, but I did notice that the inside walls of the tank had quite a bit of rust and/or corrosion flecking.

But, back to the off-kilter gauge readings, I'm thinking my next step is to try ordering a VDO gas gauge as I'm interested in a complete VDO gauge conversion anyway. If anyone knows of a vendor who is particularly knowledgeable re the gauge conversions/upgrades, please post. I'm more than willing to install a new sender, but I prefer to try one thing at a time.
 

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I use Speedhut Revolution gauges in my 240Z and Auto Meter in the old IIA. I like the Speedhut gauges because they are programmable so you can use them with stock senders, custom tanks, etc. I'll likely migrate to these when I finally (if ever it seems) get my LS1 powered IIA coiler back in service.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I use Speedhut Revolution gauges in my 240Z and Auto Meter in the old IIA. I like the Speedhut gauges because they are programmable so you can use them with stock senders, custom tanks, etc. I'll likely migrate to these when I finally (if ever it seems) get my LS1 powered IIA coiler back in service.
Hmmm, what I've absorbed from haunting old threads here is that VDO is the go-to, especially for their degree of direct-fit possibilities. I also recall that the local LR indy mechanic that I use installed VDO's on another customer's 110, so I'm assuming that if I install VDO he won't give me grief about it later...

Does anyone know which one of these that I need for the stc1482 sender scenario (pump outside of tank/warning light capable): VDO Vision Black Fuel Level Gauges - eGauges.com


Or can anyone tell me the ohm range for a stc1482 sender?
 

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Just get a new sender and start from there. They cost next to nothing unless this is an in tank pump model.

You have to watch the low fuel wiring. The gauge and low fuel use a common ground and the gauge can back feed through the low fuel if wired wrong.
 
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