Garage build Thread

15827 Views 82 Replies 35 Participants Last post by J!m, 2 mo ago

tjfslaughter

Discussion Starter · May 4, 2016

I will be renovating my Garage over the next few months. I am not a fan of other garage sites so I will post here. I noticed on other threads some innovative door openers that really help my build out.

Over the next few months I will do the following:
1. New roof
2. New siding
3. Change from two doors to one large door
4. Add a side door to the garage
5. Add a large Window A/C unit
6. Run a sub panel (60 Amp)
7. Plywood the walls up to 4' then probably transition into Sheet rock
8. Add a small winch at the ceiling for lifting small items (up to whitetail deer size)
9. Adding Internet (WIFI booster)
10. Getting rid of other peoples Rover parts.

61 - 80 of 83 Posts

Camp

· #61 · May 22, 2017 (Edited)

2

I second what Angus said about 2 post versus 4 post lift in regards to working. I've had two four post lifts and I had the bridge jack, which was a great solution. The advantage to the 4 post lift, for me, was that it is mobile. It does not require being mounted to the floor so if I need to move it over a few feet to adjust things in my garage, I simply put the trolleys on it and roll it around. That doesn't happen often but it does come in handy.

The secondary advantage of the four post lift is long term storage. I don't believe the suspension on my vehicles, and the rubber/silicon bushings, would appreciate long term negative pressure from normal positioning, which would be created by hanging the car from a 2 post lift.

I don't currently have the scissor/bridge jack in my lift so I use jack stands on the floor when needed and lower the car onto them. Makes brake jobs or swapping wheels just as easy.

The four post lift doesn't require any special foundation considerations, like a 2 post.

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tjfslaughter

Discussion Starter · #62 · May 22, 2017

I will be exploring lift options down the road but it will be tricky. Garage door will have to be closed to accommodate a lift. I am way behind on this project. My garage door is very late on delivery, and it is a critical path item.

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sflash868

· #63 · May 22, 2017

It's for working on cars, not storing them. I had the same concerns about access on the 4 post which is why I was leaning towards the 2 post. I also figured I'd get the 2 post that has the connection btw the posts run along the bottom and not the top. The defender at full height would probably hit the cross beam on most lifts. Any disadvantages to the models with the cross beam on the floor?

tjfslaughter

Discussion Starter · #64 · Jun 8, 2017

The custom garage door is only 2 months late. I comes in tomorrow. Initially I will not have an opener but does anybody have an 8500 Lift master or similar opener?

https://www.amazon.com/Liftmaster-E...2&keywords=liftmaster+8500+garage+door+opener

I am thinking to go this route so I can have an un-obstructed ceiling.

LRNAD90

· #65 · Jun 8, 2017

tjfslaughter said:
The custom garage door is only 2 months late. I comes in tomorrow. Initially I will not have an opener but does anybody have an 8500 Lift master or similar opener?

https://www.amazon.com/Liftmaster-E...2&keywords=liftmaster+8500+garage+door+opener

I am thinking to go this route so I can have an un-obstructed ceiling.

I don't have one, but always thought the 'jack shaft' style openers were the way to go myself. Seems to get good reviews everywhere I have seen..

Did you search over on Garage Journal?

Camp

· #66 · Jun 8, 2017

tjfslaughter said:
The custom garage door is only 2 months late. I comes in tomorrow. Initially I will not have an opener but does anybody have an 8500 Lift master or similar opener?

https://www.amazon.com/Liftmaster-E...2&keywords=liftmaster+8500+garage+door+opener

I am thinking to go this route so I can have an un-obstructed ceiling.

That is the opener that I run on my door. I've used one on my previous garage as well and I wouldn't use anything else now.

icnsltmfg

· #67 · Jun 11, 2017

tjfslaughter said:
The custom garage door is only 2 months late. I comes in tomorrow. Initially I will not have an opener but does anybody have an 8500 Lift master or similar opener?

https://www.amazon.com/Liftmaster-E...2&keywords=liftmaster+8500+garage+door+opener

I am thinking to go this route so I can have an un-obstructed ceiling.

I have used them for about 10 years, and is perfect for the height I needed for my 4 post lift...I also have the remote that allows me to control and monitor the door from my phone...

D90Overkill

· #68 · Jun 11, 2017 (Edited)

tjfslaughter said:
Initially I will not have an opener but does anybody have an 8500 Lift master or similar opener?

I'll look. I have three of these doors but only one opener (on the golf cart) as all the other vehicles have homelink. If I find the other two I'll let you know.

By the way, these sidewinders (jackshafts) are the best door choices by far.

Uncle Douglas

· #69 · Jun 11, 2017

sflash868 said:
This thread is good timing for me. I'm building an excessively large garage from scratch and would love advice on a whole bunch of stuff. Currently we're only at the foundation phase so the only pertinent question is on the lift. Do you guys have opinions on a two post lift vs. a drive on 4 post lift? It only matters for the thickness of the slab. Right now I'm leaning towards a two post but would welcome opinions.

I love this forum and spend more time there than here

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CMSgt Bo

· #70 · Jun 11, 2017

Uncle Douglas said:
I love this forum and spend more time there than here

The Garage Journal Board - Powered by vBulletin

Damned you Doug!

tjfslaughter

Discussion Starter · #71 · Jun 13, 2017

2

Garage Journal is a good place. I did get the framing in for 16' wide garage door this weekend. It took about 16 hours of work and I had a helper to install the header and door panels.

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rogersta

· #72 · Aug 30, 2017

Looking for recommendations on a nee compressor. New garage build that will have 100amp service and plenty of 220/240 outlets throughout.

Contractor

· #73 · Oct 16, 2017

rogersta said:
Looking for recommendations on a nee compressor. New garage build that will have 100amp service and plenty of 220/240 outlets throughout.

A lot depends on what you want to do with it. Tools, blasting, etc....will be a big influencer on what you end up purchasing.

I bought a Rolair Compressor with a 5hp motor and a 60 Gallon Tank. It's 230V and Single stage and can run 16 delivered CFM @ 100PSI. I have been more than happy so far.....much more than that and you will need 3 phase.

https://www.rolair.com/products/air-compressors/electric-stationary/5-hp-light-industrial#models

Ajp33

· #74 · Feb 3, 2022

Recognize I'm late to the party on this thread but currently building a new garage to house a defender 110 and wondered if you guys had advice on lifts as well as ceiling height. My thought is to install a 4 post for long term storage of a car above the defender but are there other considerations I need to think of? I'm guessing I would need a ceiling height of 12-13 ft. The car on top would be about 4ft tall so would 12-13 work with a defender below? Any advise would really be welcomed. Also what is the typical length front to back of a 110. I'm reading 157 inches online but not sure if that's accurate or if it includes the spare wheel?

Thanks guys

Hydepark

· #75 · 3 mo ago

Cheap and easy.

o2batsea

· #76 · 3 mo ago

Honestly a lift is almost more trouble than it is worth. I can't say that in all my years wrenching that I have wished for one. A good floor jack and stands works for me and doesn't take up space. I don't need to store cars so your needs are different. If you can go to a 14 or even 16 foot height, do it. You will never regret having more space above. I would say the minimum for a good working space for a single vehicle is 16w x 24 d. You fill it up with tools, cabinets, bench and that space gets mighty small fast. If you can go 24x30 then do. I have 10 foot wide by 10 high doors on my barn and it makes life much easier. Regular door lifts are fine if you get the kind that are tight to the ceiling (lift master). A roll door is nutzo expensive but if it's in your budget you won't be unhappy about it. If you can get at least 60 amp service with 100 being preferred if you are welding. Luxuries like AC, heat, plumbing are certainly nice, but I get along fine without. Shorts in summer and insulated overalls in winter. Cram as many LED fixtures in as you can, as you can't have too much light.

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Uncle Douglas

· #77 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

o2batsea said:
Honestly a lift is almost more trouble than it is worth. I can't say that in all my years wrenching that I have wished for one. A good floor jack and stands works for me and doesn't take up space. I don't need to store cars so your needs are different. If you can go to a 14 or even 16 foot height, do it. You will never regret having more space above. I would say the minimum for a good working space for a single vehicle is 16w x 24 d. You fill it up with tools, cabinets, bench and that space gets mighty small fast. If you can go 24x30 then do. I have 10 foot wide by 10 high doors on my barn and it makes life much easier. Regular door lifts are fine if you get the kind that are tight to the ceiling (lift master). A roll door is nutzo expensive but if it's in your budget you won't be unhappy about it. If you can get at least 60 amp service with 100 being preferred if you are welding. Luxuries like AC, heat, plumbing are certainly nice, but I get along fine without. Shorts in summer and insulated overalls in winter. Cram as many LED fixtures in as you can, as you can't have too much light.

All good advice Bill. We have a rotary 10k asymmetric and pretty much only use it to lift bodies when doing chassis swaps. The rest of the time it’s a parking bay. Not much need for a lift when your primary business is Cummins repowers.
Our primary space is a 30x40 addition on the back of a 38x42 block barn. The barn already had its own meter & single stage service. We ran a heavy gauge cable to the back of the new space and installed a 100amp sub panel. We have wired in quad outlet boxes every 10 feet and in between ea of the three garage doors, as well as one on the lift post. We have a 50ft 220v extension cord with a Miller outlet on the end. This enables use of the Miller 250 inside or out (chassis) repairs.
Welding, cutting, grinding quickly make a huge mess of the inside of your shop so we try to do as much of this type work outside as possible.
Compressor, like Contractor above is 60 gallon, single stage, 12cfm @ 100psi. Over the 32 yrs I’ve owned it I’ve replaced both the compressor & electric motor. It’s located upstairs in the old haymow and the entire building is plumbed inside & out with rapid air’s kits.
For compressors, highly recommend Amsoil’s“compressor oil” for longevity of your compressor head.

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o2batsea

· #78 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

Agree on the mess inside but that's why we invented brooms! I also have a 50 foot 220 extension and it is great for when using the plasma cutter outside (now THAT makes a mess!)
60 gallons is about the minimum on air tankage. Nothing as tiring as having the compressor run constantly. If you get a blast cabinet, then you'll want an 80gallon and a big 2 stage compressor on that jimmy. Buy once cry once on that subject.
I will edit this by saying that going hand in hand with your compressor is some sort of air dryer system. For my setup, I went with a home brew cooling tower made of copper pipe loops upstream of a double desiccant filter. My paint gun is plumbed to another regulator/desiccant filter. This gets rid of most of the moisture at least at the paint gun as I can spray all day and the desiccant stays blue. Air tools aren't as critical but still you don't want your air sander spraying compressor juice all over the work.
You can get these air dryers that are basically an air conditioner unit that precipitates out the moisture. They are awfully expensive but if you do a lot of body work or blasting you need the air to be dry.

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One Ten

· #79 · 3 mo ago

On the subject of lifts, when I built my garage I had it built with a 12’, 6” interior height for my lift. 10k Atlas asymmetrical. Best purchase I ever made. Changed my life. Getting too old to be rolling around on the garage floor. Lol

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sgo70

· #80 · 3 mo ago

That's the same one I had, I sure miss it.

I had a very large heavy canvas tarp hanging on a roller track to isolate the mess such as grinding or paint overspray, worked great and it never started on fire lol.

I did 20amp service to all plugs instead of 15amp, 5 twist lock 220 plugs and converted all my stuff to twist lock, insulated it better than most houses (cool in sumer, warm in winter), and yes, lots of lighting. In my current garage I mounted 6 of those 4 panel LED lights they sell at Home Depot and with the white walls in there I go snow blind if I lift my welding mask off, so much better than the tube lights and you can aim each panel to focus the light.

Sean

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