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Hey Folks, I’m trying to decide between galvanized doors and EDP - Electro deposit primer doors. The cost difference is $850 verse $450. Are galvanized worth the extra $400? Thanks
 

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IMHO yes. Now matter how well you prime/paint (including powdercoat) once there is any breach.......there will be rust. Galvanizing becomes part of the metal (versus coating, ie primer/paint/powdercoat) and in some ways can be 'self healing' to a point. If you are going to be exposed to water/salt this is especially true. So if you really want the 'best and most' corrosion-proof solution it is galvy.

On my 90 the doors are aluminum skinned on a steel frame/skeleton (also source of corrosion).......I went to the trouble of getting galvy frames and having aluminum re-skinned and bonded with epoxy. That wasn't cheap. But now I have an almost permanent solution.

Now you could argue to 'bank' the difference and 'if or when' there is rust you can use the money to refinish the doors and you will be even or maybe ahead.

SO for $1,600 it is worth it for me........but clearly this depends on your budget and relative value of what you believe important.
 

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I guess it depends what kind of environment it's going to be subjected to. I doubt the NAS era doors even had an e-coat. Probably just normal primer. Some of those are still in good condition (e.g. out west). The genuine replacement doors from LR have an e-coat. I think those are probably fine for most environments. If it's going to see a lot of water and salt then definitely go galv.
 

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Are you keeping it a long time or not?
 

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Hey Folks, I’m trying to decide between galvanized doors and EDP - Electro deposit primer doors. The cost difference is $850 verse $450. Are galvanized worth the extra $400? Thanks
Who has quoted you $850 for a galv frame door? Unless its a puma thats very expensive.
 

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Not even a question. Get them galvanized and forget about them. It's worth every penny! Remember, they charge by the ton so dip every part you are willing to pull off. I'm assuming the quote included removing and refitting the door skins? Average galvy cost is $300 for about 1 ton. I did a 90 chassis, 5 door frames, bulkhead, F&R bumpers, capping and dozen's of brackets and skid plates and didn't even come close.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Are you keeping it a long time or not?
yes I don’t plan to sell it
IMHO yes. Now matter how well you prime/paint (including powdercoat) once there is any breach.......there will be rust. Galvanizing becomes part of the metal (versus coating, ie primer/paint/powdercoat) and in some ways can be 'self healing' to a point. If you are going to be exposed to water/salt this is especially true. So if you really want the 'best and most' corrosion-proof solution it is galvy.

On my 90 the doors are aluminum skinned on a steel frame/skeleton (also source of corrosion).......I went to the trouble of getting galvy frames and having aluminum re-skinned and bonded with epoxy. That wasn't cheap. But now I have an almost permanent solution.

Now you could argue to 'bank' the difference and 'if or when' there is rust you can use the money to refinish the doors and you will be even or maybe ahead.

SO for $1,600 it is worth it for me........but clearly this depends on your budget and relative value of what you believe important.
makes sense, thanks
 
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