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Discussion Starter #1
1986 Petrol 110 started up just fine this morning. Tried restarting it about an hour later and it just wont turn over. It will not start and stay running unless I have the gas pedal to the floor. As soon as I release the gas pedal, the truck dies. When I turn the key to the ON position I can hear the fuel pump engaging, so I have no idea what else it could be. I am new to the defender world and appreciate any help that I can get. Ideas??
 

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4cyl And I was working on an LED lighting upgrade so is it possible that I pulled something loose at the fuse panel? Could that be a cause? I’m sorry for not being more educated on these things. But I am trying to learn!
 

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I finally got it started again -once- but it sounded like it was idling VERY high. Like I had my foot on the gas, but I didn’t. Now, it’s bogging down again and won’t start/stay running unless the gas pedal is floored. All was normal until today.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Usually I turn the key and let the fuel pump
prime, pump the gas twice, then start her up.
 

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Where are you located?

The 17h, 2.5 Petrol should have a manual choke.
It sounds like the choke is pulled and the engine is cutting out.
That or the engine is running in a fuel starved state due to poor fuel delivery.

There is a little fuel filter housing on the right outrigger just under the bulkhead that could be the problem.
These fuel filters are in such an out-of-the-way-location that they rarely get changed so after a while they clog-up.
When we encounter this issue, we replace the entire fuel line from the tank and replace the electric fuel pump with a mechanical fuel pimp mounted to the side of the engine.
The 17H camshaft has a fuel pump lobe, so it can run the mechanical pump.
The nylon fuel line gets brittle over time and forms cracks and pin holes.

To check to see if the choke is closed, remove the black air intake adapter off the top of the carb and see if the butterfly inside is open or closed.
If it's closed the choke is likely closed and needs to be opened to let adequate air get to the engine.

To check fuel delivery, disconnect the fuel line at the carb and place it in something to catch fuel like an old coffee can and see how much flow there is with the key on.
If it's a trickle you have the very common 17H fuel delivery problem.
If it shoots out 3 or 4 inches under forced pressure, you have adequate delivery.

Also there are all sorts of silly electrical solenoids on that carb for anti-run-on and sometimes if these fail or get disconnected it will make the engine run poorly.

I have not tried the Holley Sniper EFI on a 17H yet, but think the HOLLEY SNIPER EFI 2GC SMALL BORE has the same bolt pattern as the small Weber 32-34 or 34 that was inherent to the 17H 2.5 petrol engine you have.
If this is correct, it is likely the manifold could be machined to take the 2GC sniper.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That you guys so so much for all the info! At least now I know where to start. You are appreciated! I am located in southern Utah.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Also, mine does not have a manual choke. Is that unusual??
Went back out this morning and she started right up without a problem, but the engine sounds like it’s idling very high...like I’m giving it gas but I’m not. And it sounds higher the longer she runs.
 

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Am I a complete idiot?? Perhaps I just flooded her yesterday??? I know the basics about cars, but Defenders are definitely a horse of a different color lol.
 

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could have been converted to electric, i did a custom electric choke setup on my slant six. one wire operation, works way better than any manual choke. but im just wondering.

a pic of the carb throat from above would tell
 
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