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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Moving along, lots of pictures to come when I get time.

Got most of the front done today, I'm finding the front way less exhausting because there's lots of info about it and my manual actually covers it well. I did find a discrepancy though. It has the lower swivel pin bolts torque to 78NM which seemed really high for those bolts and I found online around 40NM. Maybe there's some that are different.

I had something weird when I bolted up the front stub axles, the swivels would only turn about half way if that. I checked the CV before I put on the stubs and it was good. I compared old and new stubs, bolts etc, thought maybe the bolts were hitting the swivel balls or something. I loosened off the bolts and it worked fine??? So I went full stop and did up one bolt, no problem. Went the other way full stop and again fine. I kept going back and forth doing up the bolts and everything is good now. Not sure what happened but maybe the CV had to come out of the diff a bit to let it pivot, figure that's why you need the spacers on the ends.

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Maybe I'm getting tired of going through the entire service manual everytime I need something but I can't figure out how much of the grease to put into the swivel housing. It just says that it's filled from the factory for life of the vehicle. I'm thinking just one entire bag per side??? I don't have drain plugs on mine.......almost done.

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
I was just about to answer myself.....375 ml and one bag is 370 so with the assembly grease that'll do. Thanks again RED.

I also found the lower swivel pin torque again-28NM/21ftlbs. Not the 58NM the workshop manual states for an 8mm bolt lol.

Sean
 

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If the swivel is only turning about halfway then the CV is not fully seated in the back of the swivel housing. It needs to be fully flush and seated. May need to be hit with a mallet * not a hammer.

Your method of seating it one side of the time probably snapped it into place.
 

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I had an issue where the bronze bushings didn’t seat all the way in and that caused the CV joint to stick out where I wouldn’t be able to turn the swivels completely. And the problem wouldn’t manifest itself until after all the bolts were torqued. That’s why I had to remove and reinstall them too. Written about it in my rebuild thread for my future self….
Various workshop manuals have various errors in them. I found Haynes (green book) was more or less accurate but too had some torque specs out of whack…..
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Yeah I imagine I may not have had the CV pressed up tight with all the grease packed into it, all good now and feels solid. I can't believe I actually figured out which calipers to order lol, my last minute second guess on the rears paid off.

I got a few parts left over with buying the kits and ordering the good seals but I think I got it all done up except for the spacers on the end of the axles. I'm pulling them out as far as possible and then pushing them into the circlip to get my measurements, does this sound right and do I want them snug as I can get them. I thought I read that it should have 0.8-1.2 mm play but I think I'm confusing something else. Also on the rears with the HD drive flanges the axle shafts will hit the caps if I pull them all the way out. I was thinking of just putting in about a 1mm shim and greasing the cap lol, I don't know what else to do.

I got the readings here:
Front-both 2.79mm almost exactly the same, weird.
Rear Driver-2.03mm
Rear Passenger-1.14mm

Sean
 

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wow.. very by the book here :). for spacing I put what was on there back on as far as spacers go, seat the cir-clip and then thread a bolt into the axle (one of the flange bolts works) and check if there is movement.. Yes = more spacers, can't get the cir-clip on = too much. I have never taken a gauge to it, seems well there is enough play no matter what in there with these things.. Then I fill the swivel housing as a the last step with a full bag of one-shot. I like the Brit-part ones since they include a handy nozzle and a tube you can poll the bag up on to get all of it in there..
I also don't use much RTV if any on the front or rears, the paper gasket with some hydromar is great, or like today I was out of gaskets so I just wiped RTV on the inside mating surface of the flange and that normally is all it takes and its easy (-ish) to get apart and not a huge mess when you do next time. it does not take much to keep the grease in.
 
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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
I like your spacer method better lol. I figured I’d better follow the book my first time, I’m hoping I don’t have to take it apart. I used a very thin bead of rtv on the gaskets so it will be tough if I have to but I like how easy it is to get off, I was cursing those paper gaskets taking it all apart. I have some plastic scrapers that you can sharpen up and it just peels rtv off clean.

Sean
 

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Also on the rears with the HD drive flanges the axle shafts will hit the caps if I pull them all the way out. I was thinking of just putting in about a 1mm shim and greasing the cap lol, I don't know what else to do.
If they keep causing you grief when you drive it (they won't stay pushed in, they'll move guaranteed), then you might consider putting in older version of drive flanges there - they come in 2 flavors - "up to KA" (Britpart DA1149) and "from LA" (Britpart DA1148). Older, "up to KA" ones are thicker and deeper, to match the old design. They are, allegedly, also supposed to be for the drum brake rear axles, whereas the newer, skinnier ones (that you have) are supposed to be for the rear disc brake axles, but you may have all kinds of mix and match in these vehicles, depending on POs. You still have your old drive flanges - just compare them and see if you had or should have older (deeper and thicker) ones in the back. Big difference between them, though - one is 38 and the other is 55mm total thickness. One picture is showing the half shaft sticking way too far out original rear ones, before you took it apart), I don't think it's supposed to do that, although if you got it down to 2mm that should be acceptable, but then it's not supposed to be hitting your hub covers at that (but then that could just be the issue with the defective drive flange, as the rubber caps are much, much deeper than these fancy metal caps.

Front ones need to be shimmed, either to spec using the dial gauge or as rlynch356 stated - the end float is between 5 and 9 Thou per the spec, that's pretty tight. People have driven with the rear ones as is without ill effects (hell, with halfshafts broken and welded together and drive flanges welded to half shafts as you know), but I'd like to think that old Solihull Engineers didn't just receive their salary for nothing and had valid reasons to spec the end float tolerances.
 
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Rears, just put a circlip on and drive it, nothing you can do. As i said earlier, never had shims on any of my rovers, have had a variety of half shafts amd flanges (maxi drive, ashcroft, rovertracks, jacmac, b.o.r, hytuff) and never an issue.
Fronts, i have only ever had one that was shimmed, that had stock flanges, was a diff from a wrecker. Can't say any of my others had them, never seemed to be an issue either. Need to build up another front diff one day soon, might shim this one, if i can find any

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