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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Hey Red, are you referring to doing a wet axle then. I read I need a different seal somewhere but I didn’t order any?

thanks
Sean
 

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I use RedLine 75W90 (comes as 75w90ns too for open diffs, but that's not what you want you want just their 75w90) for both the axles and the swivels. You can typically get it at PartSource ort other stores, but it's becoming more and more troublesome to just walk into the store and buy it off the shelf.
Just about any 75W90 would do, I believe Cambodian Tire typically stocks the Royal Purple or even their own house brand variety. That way you will always be able to get it anywhere the hell you are.

Workshop manual specifies "Hypoid gear oil, viscosity SAE 80EP or SAE 90EP to API GL4, MIL-L-2105 or better". People will drag you down to a holy war and hell over their idea of what's the right idea of a particular lubricant, though :)

"wet axle" is something you get anyway if the seal fails :) I wouldn't do it by design, though.
The benefit of having the same oil throughout the axle is you don't end up that oneshot crap washed out and into the diff aith subsequent bitch of a cleanup before you can refill, vs. just draining and refilling it. Having said that, people love their oneshot, so, there's no right or wrong way of doing it, really, either way works.

If my memory serves me right, the front oil seal separating the swivel from the axle housing is FTC3276. If you bought a complete swivel housing kit, it will be included with it. If not, your friendly local LandRover dealer has one for you, it will be double the price of a Corteco (and a Gaco, similar to Corteco part anyway), but for something like $10, who cares.
 

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i personally prefer the one shot grease over running we hubs/gear oil. Just simpler. all rover dealers will have it

and yea on the gear oils LOTS of opinions, im cheap so i use the cheap stuff
 

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A 75W90 or synthetic is a waste of money. These axles do not suffer from wear issues and a better lube does nothing but cost you more. Any old 80W90 is the best path. Buy it in 20 liter pails when on sale. Use a garden sprayer to fill.
 
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Cuing lubricant holy wars in 3, 2, 1……
 

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Pineapple belongs on pizza
Escalating here, are we?

I’ll kick it up a notch and unleash the true demons of holy wars:
Trump [won/lost] the most recent election :)
 

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They list two of the three methods. One shot. And DP90 in the swivel balls. The third is removing the seals between the swivels and the axle and just running gear oil throughout your axle. This is what is referred to when folks say they run wet axles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Thanks for the input guys, I think I'll go with the One Shot as I got 4 bags of it, two with the swivel ball kits and two with the CV kits all labelled the same as swivel housing grease.

I just have to clean out the axles and I think I'm ready to go. I got all my parts cleaned and painted, pressed in my new longer wheel studs, and parts all appear to be hear. I'm going to compare new parts to old parts and see how my order went. For some reason I figured it was a good idea to open everything up in the front entryway of my house, like a kid at Christmas.

I can't find a specific torque setting for the rear hub to disc bolts, I assume it's 73NM the same as the front......anyone??? I did find a workshop manual with a bit more information on my specific model and Vedrover helped me out with some scanned documents that I really appreciated. I think I'll start with the rear axle today.

Sean
 

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I did find a workshop manual with a bit more information on my specific model...
Here are the 1996 and 2002 Workshop manuals. For some reason they removed the torque tables and the 2002 does not talk about fitting the brake discs...

1996 Manual, Section 51, page 11
Assemble brake disc to hub, line up reassembly marks. Applying Loctite 270, fit and tighten retaining bolts to 73 Nm (54 lbf/ft).
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 · (Edited)
Thanks. Yeah I see in the 1996 it says apply locktite and torque to 73NM for both in the Brakes section but in the axles they have an asterix for the bolts that get locktite but these don't have one. The 2002 manual says 73NM for the front so I'm going to assume the same and use locktite as I don't think it can hurt and if it's not supposed to be there, the heat on the disc will melt it away.

On another note, I've cleaned my rear axle out and got it all ready to go, just wanted to chase the threads as they're so full of crud. I'm 99% sure it's an M10x1.5 thread but it's hard to get the tap in there and the one I ran through felt really tight. It felt like I was tapping a fresh hole but I wasn't getting any metal flakes and the bolt goes in nicely. It just scares me the PO might have just rammed the nearest bolts to him in there and not the proper ones. I forgot to order these bolts so I'm going to try and find some new ones.

Edit:Sorry to the PO lol. I tried a different new tap and it ran through nicely, seems my old one is dull and was just pushing it's way through the locktite and crud and not cutting. It's an M10x1.5 on the rear axle housing.

Sean
 

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Don't use a tap to chase threads. It'll make the hole larger than it needs to be and the bolts will fit loosely. Use a thread chaser instead.

Definitely use blue loctite on the disc bolts
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I'll have to buy one lol. I used the loctite, I figured it couldn't hurt.

Thought I was going to have the rear end all done tonight but I guess I didn't order my axle spacers and only 1 out of my four wheels had one so I can't even reuse the old ones. Dammit!!! I'll post pictures later.

Sean
 

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I'll have to buy one lol. I used the loctite, I figured it couldn't hurt.

Thought I was going to have the rear end all done tonight but I guess I didn't order my axle spacers and only 1 out of my four wheels had one so I can't even reuse the old ones. Dammit!!! I'll post pictures later.

Sean
Out of all the landrovers i have owned and played with, onlly 1 has had those axles shims still installed

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I'll have to buy one lol. I used the loctite, I figured it couldn't hurt.

Thought I was going to have the rear end all done tonight but I guess I didn't order my axle spacers and only 1 out of my four wheels had one so I can't even reuse the old ones. Dammit!!! I'll post pictures later.

Sean
I got a bunch left over from mine. What thickness do you need? You need to have specific freeplay (screw a bolt in the middle and wigle it in and out while measuring it with a dial indicator, and shim to eliminate the extra.
As people said - folks run without them, but more often than not - on stock drive flanges. These HD drive flanges you have are slimmer in every way, so, shafts stick out a bit further out it appears...
 

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I got a bunch left over from mine. What thickness do you need? You need to have specific freeplay (screw a bolt in the middle and wigle it in and out while measuring it with a dial indicator, and shim to eliminate the extra.
As people said - folks run without them, but more often than not - on stock drive flanges. These HD drive flanges you have are slimmer in every way, so, shafts stick out a bit further out it appears...
Have never run stock flanges, and never had shims, only time i have ever seen them (until recently i never knew they existed after 20 years of having rovers) is on stock flanges.

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