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Check the rear axle code as well. If it is HD as well, that is a nice as they use thicker axle tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Okay I've gotten through my parts but I can't figure out my brake calipers or rear discs. It's a 2001 Defender 110 with vented front rotors and solid rears, Salisbury rear axle and no ABS. I'm looking at LRDirect and it seems to go up to around 1991 and then there's a gap to 2006???? I didn't think it would be this tough, any help is appreciated.

Pad suggestions are welcome also.

Sean
 

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You should be the same as 1994+. AFAIK, the one real change after that was the rear brakes, but I think that was 2004.

 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I've been looking all over and saw a few answers but that seems to confirm what I picked so I hope that's right. Just have to figure out my pads and I'm done I think....$2400 later after $600 in shipping....that hurt.

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
No lol. That's new brakes all around, swivel balls, 4 stub axles, one hub, Timkin bearings all around, corteco seals, HD drive members, CV kits, rear axle shaft, clips, spacers, shims etc. I hope I got it right. Oh yeah, 20 of the 60mm wheel studs didn't help. I was going to buy the cheaper ones but I figured that's not where I should cut costs, so 20x$9=$180 in studs. In the end I forgot a 52mm socket, I'm going to have to look around for that now. Just a few things left to order for this 110, can't wait.

Sean
 

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Did you order the AEU2522 CV or something different?
A complete front axle rebuild is also my planned winter project, including front Truetrac.
Keep us posted as to how your project goes.
 

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Sean, I'll say it again: you're biting it in big chunks. Just rebuild it to stock for now, don't change one thing after another, don't upgrade, replace what needs to be replaced and leave it at that. Get it roadworthy and drive, you'll again replace a bunch of stuff once you start driving it, it's just how it goes.
Otherwise, your truck won't be on the road for another 5 years, man.
Check the sticky here for the online parts catalogue - european-based MicroCats are the best for you. They also have parts diagrams there, follow those, don't rebuild to the "as found" condition. If there's a plate in the parts diagram - put it in. You've got a truck from Georgia (the country, not the state), those folks will McGyver stuff more than anyone else, they have no extra money to spare.

Regarding axle parts - swivel pins, etc., I'm quite happy with the Britpart kit that I bought (but the version that has Corteco seals and Timken bearings), they've been on for years now without any issues. Bearmach is fine too. Regarding the diff - test for whiplash and free play. Do a blue test if you feel like it - otherwise just put it back in and be done with it. Replace it if and when it fails.

Let me know if you need any parts, I may still have extras from the time I did swivel pins, hubs stub shafts and such on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I ended up ordering the kit:


I'm a little gun shy to try anything other than what was listed as compatible being my first time doing rover axles. With shipping it doesn't make sense to return something if I order the wrong part as well and it ends up causing more delays. I figure I can always upgrade thing later when I'm actually driving the truck.

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Must've posted at the same time, thanks for the offer. I agree I'm just following the parts diagrams, they seemed to bodge things together on both axles and they messed up a few things. Found a bolt broke off half way into the rear hub so I decided to order a new one rather than drive myself crazy trying to get it out. I'm not going to start an easy out fiasco that always ends bad lol.

I'm pretty sure I should have everything, shims are the only thing I'm worried I won't have enough of. I watched a couple of videos explaining the axle lock nuts vs the TD5 style, I ordered both sets for about $12 extra, so I'm trying to figure out if mine should have the end float or if it should have a preload on it. I do have the spacers for between the bearings and from what I understand 2001 was about when the TD5's started coming out. Of course the workshop manual I have for 2001 doesn't include axles and the other manual I have is up to 1997. Going to dig around some more.

Parts are starting to show up in the opposite order than I need them.....brakes and discs first lol, so tomorrow I plan on cleaning and painting everything and hopefully get started on Thursday, I'll take lots of pictures and appreciate anyone jumping in if they see me mess something up.

Sean
 

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I got the shims, let me know which ones you want (or even just 2 of each) - second column is the q-ty I have. I bought them when I was doing mine. I think you'll be fine with a circa 1997 manual for the axles, they didn;t really change them much. For painting - POR15 is still holding up pretty good on mine.:

FRC2883
8​
BEARMACH
FRC2884
7​
ALLMAKES
FRC2885
9​
BEARMACH
FRC2886
5​
BEARMACH
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Actually I had a question. Is it a good idea to use gasket sealant on all these paper gaskets? I have the spray on sealant as well as Aviation Form a Gasket.

Thanks again, I'll let you know.

Sean
 

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I've used RTV where applicable, per the workshop manual. If you look at my rebuild page, you'll see a gif there in my Dec-10, 2017 post, that will clearly show the black RTV between the paper gaskets.

I have this book (goes to 2007), as well as this one (with the latter having a much better level of detail on the swivel pins) did you want me to scan the axles portion for you?

PS: you can use one shot grease that comes with the kit for the swivel pins, or just the same 75W90 gear oil you use in the axle. I did the latter, and, with the Corteco seal, so far had no issues with it (knock on wood).
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
That would be absolutely awesome, thanks.
Ill pm my email to you or if we could make it an attachment on this thread it would probably help others but I’m not sure if that’s allowed?

That’s a big help, thanks again.
Sean
 

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No worries, I'll just email it to you directly.
 
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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Been reading up on lubricants. I think the CV's come with their own in the kit and then as far as the bearings go I have the Lucas heavy duty (says right on it for wheel bearings), is this good for all the bearings? I have a couple of tubes of this Morris K48 that I got with my lift kit, I'm not sure if it's suitable for anything. I also think I read 90W gear oil, anything special to look for?

Any problem using these? I've just been cleaning parts and I'm going to paint my hubs and stuff hopefully today, still waiting on two more boxes.

Thanks,
Sean
 

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Sounds good. Is there an alternative for One Shot, I hope to get something locally.

Thanks,
Sean
Gear oil. It helps if your swivel housings have fill and drain points though. At some point they stopped putting them in.
 
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