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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've started tearing into my front axle and need to order some parts but the previous owner has made this very confusing. The parts don't match from right to left as well the left side was all glued together with RTV, not a single gasket lol. When I first popped the rubber cap off the left side the shim and the circlip were just sitting in the cap loosely as the end of the CV was worn off from the grooves out. So I know I need new CV's but the shafts still look good.


The swivel ball housing looks good on the mating surfaces but one does look like something let loose and beat the inside a bit, no cracks or leaks though. Both my swivel balls are pitted so I know they're junk, both were leaking.

The stub axles are both grooved where the bearings sit, I didn't have to measure, I can feel them so I guess they get added to the list. Problem here is the right one had a plate attached to it, left didn't so I don't know if it's needed???


Also wondering if I should get the heavy duty Drive Members and if there's any problem areas I should specifically look for. I'm going to pull the diff off when I get back today to get a look and the internals, hopefully it's good.

Are there any brands to avoid or some that are good, I can't afford OEM lol.....Bearmach etc??? Also I want all new bearings, seals, gaskets etc, is there such thing as a complete kit? The front brakes and discs look decent but I need new shoes.

And just something to add, if you hang a freshly painted black master cylinder in line to the parts washer you will walk into it every time haha.




Thanks in advance for any advice,
Sean
 

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I would ljust order the parts from the axle you want to emulate. Personally i use aftermarket Aeu2522 one ton CVs with the early 110 stub axles that have the bronze bushing and no needle bearing as i think they are heavier duty. If you use all common parts from the swivel housing out then there will be no guess work in the future. You have 90/later style stub axles (the flat instead of a keyway).

I always order all parts separately as you get better quality bearings that way, the most important component. The aftermarket teflon coated balls are fine in my opinion. I also only use coretco swivel seals, hub (rtc 3511 ) and inner seals. Everything else i use paper and black right stuff. Timken for bearings (set37) you need 4 sets. I also like using the LR one shot grease. You can get the universal bearing numbers for you later swivel housings right off the bearing itself, top and bottom.

Britpart does make a kit for castor corrected balls for later housing that you are using. So if you plan on a 2in lift or higher, would make sense to go that route.

The "plate" you show on the sub axle under the bolts is just a mudshield to keep stones an crap out of the back of the rotor/hub seal.
 

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What year is the truck? You are installing a lot of power currently, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Napalm, I'll take your advice.

Thanks also Red I totally forgot, it's a 2001 110 with a Salisbury rear and a Gen 5 Chev 5.3 LT engine. I might upgrade to Ashcroft lockers, shafts etc one day but I decided I can do stuff like that in the future if I decide I need to. I don't do a lot of really crazy off road stuff anymore, got the side by side for that now.

One other thing, my wheel studs are a bit short for my adapters, are the 60mm the only longer ones? I would like 50mm if there's such a thing but I guess I could spend a day turning them all down....

Thanks,
Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Awh come on, look what you've done so far. Comes apart easy enough........and you get to buy a fish scale for your toolbox.

Sean
 

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Thanks also Red I totally forgot, it's a 2001 110 with a Salisbury rear and a Gen 5 Chev 5.3 LT engine.
I will assume it is a later style (94+) axle. It does look weird. The CVs look like early wide style. Can you have a look at the spline size/count where the halfshaft goes into the CV. And measure the length of the stub shaft on the CV.

IMO, unless you plan to only drive gingerly on the road, it all needs to go. The diff, halfshafts and CVs are broken regularly with stock engines. Where the halfshaft goes into the CV, it drops to a stupidly small size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I’m interested in what you think I should do, I appreciate your input. Looks like 32 spline and about an inch or 25mm.

Sean
 

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I’m interested in what you think I should do, I appreciate your input. Looks like 32 spline and about an inch or 25mm.
Okay. That is the correct item then. If you are staying stock, then just replace what is needed using the parts catalog.

The strength issue is that 1" shaft. It is 60% the strength of the 24 spline. Unfortunately the only solution is aftermarket shaft and CV to get up to 23 spline. The diff is pretty weak as well, so you are stuck spending a lot. The aftermarket CVs are pricey these days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That sounds a bit more promising. I looked at the Ashcroft stuff and was thinking lockers, shafts and CV’s but for the price of all that I can buy my son a RZR200 side by side almost. The worst driving I seem to do nowadays is out in the Ghost Valley going ice climbing. I just think I’d we’d enjoy utving together more than driving around with great axles lol.

I did get the diff out and besides being the thickest blackest gear oil I’ve ever seen it feels solid and the wear pattern on the crown is very minimal. Any input besides cleaning and oiling it up?
Gotta figure out how I’m going to clean those axle tubes, that stuff is thick.

Thanks again Red,
Sean
 

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That sounds a bit more promising. I looked at the Ashcroft stuff and was thinking lockers, shafts and CV’s but for the price of all that I can buy my son a RZR200 side by side almost. The worst driving I seem to do nowadays is out in the Ghost Valley going ice climbing. I just think I’d we’d enjoy utving together more than driving around with great axles lol.

I did get the diff out and besides being the thickest blackest gear oil I’ve ever seen it feels solid and the wear pattern on the crown is very minimal. Any input besides cleaning and oiling it up?
Gotta figure out how I’m going to clean those axle tubes, that stuff is thick.

Thanks again Red,
Sean
Chimney brush and diesel fuel, or just bunch up a big rag and push it through with a broomstick from the other side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The broom handle is what I was thinking haha. I’ve twisted up welding rod with a rag and put it on the drill when I did my Jeep
 

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That's a locking front diff. You most likely have one in the rear axle too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Andrew in Calgary told me it was a military defender, he pointed out how the frame is plated etc. Here’s a few, I can take more if you need.

Started to take apart the rear Salisbury and saw how to keep the end play down. They welded it to the flange.

Also noticed the drivers side shaft could pull out quite far?????

Sean
 

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Appears to be a P38 4 pinion diff with a ring gear spacer to allow it to work with the long nose carrier. Someone has put that in.

Anyway, you won’t need to upgrade the diff.
 

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The welding of the half shaft and the shaft pulling out is because the drive flanges are worn out. You were probably minutes from being stranded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well I don’t know anything about the P38 but if you say it’s good I’m happy. The weld is actually broken, the bead was just keeping it from coming out. Everything on the short side is junk except maybe the hub. The long side shaft and hub look fine, I’ll have to clean them up.

Ssssooooo, what can you guys say about the rear diff. Again it feels solid and a nice wear pattern. Just don’t know if it’s a locker or not???

Sean
 

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That is the stock rear diff. It is a 4 pinion.

The P38 diff is what they used in the rear of 110/130s after 2004.
 
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