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Discussion Starter #1
So a while back my rear passenger wheel had some oil (definitely not brake fluid) show up on it. I did my research on here and it seemed like it was the flange gasket having reached its end. Based on what I read here i removed the five bolt on the flange and pulled out the axel. To my complete shock there was no gasket present (not really), so I drew a nice bead of liquid gasket and reseated the axel.

So today I took it for a drive to get the new wheels and tires put on and had new/fresh fluid on the wheel. The dust cap has a crack in it (I've already put a new set on order through Paddocks), and I can see a fresh fluid on the crack in the cap.

What I need to figure out is why is so much oil (or any) getting to the dust cap? I think the new dust cap may fix the symptom, at least for a while, but it there something else I should be worried about in the axel? Of note, there was no oil leaking when I bought it a few months ago.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Rob
 

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Same exact thing happened on our truck this winter. Every couple of days fluid would seem to seep freely out of our right rear drive flange. I checked the level in the diff and it was spot on. Removed flange and re-sealed it. Came out next morning to fluid leaking all the way down the tire and onto the ground...
It's 10 below zero so I'm really stumped how this oil/water slurry is being forced out of the hub?!?! And doing so overnight while cold? Whatever...hub kit inbound from Paddocks.

Right about the time I hit the pay button I glance out the window to see the neighbors dog trot up to the right rear wheel of the 110. With dead aim on the center cap this dog takes a hearty piss which freezes to the likeness of 90wt almost instantly. So there's that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Same exact thing happened on our truck this winter. Every couple of days fluid would seem to seep freely out of our right rear drive flange. I checked the level in the diff and it was spot on. Removed flange and re-sealed it. Came out next morning to fluid leaking all the way down the tire and onto the ground...
It's 10 below zero so I'm really stumped how this oil/water slurry is being forced out of the hub?!?! And doing so overnight while cold? Whatever...hub kit inbound from Paddocks.

Right about the time I hit the pay button I glance out the window to see the neighbors dog trot up to the right rear wheel of the 110. With dead aim on the center cap this dog takes a hearty piss which freezes to the likeness of 90wt almost instantly. So there's that.
Thats pretty damn funny. I should have found a way to electrify the wheel so he got a little surprise next time...

------ Follow up post added July 21st, 2015 11:09 AM ------

Check the breather. A clogged breather will cause even a good seal to leak.

-Jeff
Thanks. Will do. I guess if figured if it was the breather, when I put the new liquid gasket it would have either blown out the older seal on the other wheel or been good.

I'm noticing it more after runs on the autobahn @ 100kph... high speed = heat = increased pressure, so it makes sense.

walking out to take a look now.

Thanks
 

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Use this silicon sealer. OEM quality and better. The best oil resistance ive seen in any silicone. Follow directions on bottle, most importantly clean all oilsc old gasket etc... from mating surfaces. It will never leak again! This stuff is so good it acts just like a regular gasket meaning you can remove your axle and put it back several × with using more silicone.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thats pretty damn funny. I should have found a way to electrify the wheel so he got a little surprise next time...

------ Follow up post added July 21st, 2015 11:09 AM ------



Thanks. Will do. I guess if figured if it was the breather, when I put the new liquid gasket it would have either blown out the older seal on the other wheel or been good.

I'm noticing it more after runs on the autobahn @ 100kph... high speed = heat = increased pressure, so it makes sense.

walking out to take a look now.

Thanks
Breather was 100% clogged... WD-40 w/ flexi-straw got it cleared out. Hopefully that does the trick.

------ Follow up post added July 21st, 2015 11:42 AM ------

Use this silicon sealer. OEM quality and better. The best oil resistance ive seen in any silicone. Follow directions on bottle, most importantly clean all oilsc old gasket etc... from mating surfaces. It will never leak again! This stuff is so good it acts just like a regular gasket meaning you can remove your axle and put it back several × with using more silicone.
Thanks, I'll be ordering some online tonight... The oil isn't leaking from the flange, it is coming out under the dust cap, so I don't think it is that seal...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Please Help

So I cleared out the breather last night hoping that would do the trick.... Well the leak is definitely worse today than it has ever been since it started. I drove 8km today @ no more than 50kph in the city and this is what I saw when I got home. there is nothing on the backside/inside of the wheel at all.

Any suggestions on what could be causing this?

Thanks as always.

Rob
 

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Remove the axle casing fitting. Clean or replace, clear hole in axle. Make sure you can blow through the tubing.
Refit.
 

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is the diff overfilled? pull the fill plug on the diff cover and report back
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Remove the axle casing fitting. Clean or replace, clear hole in axle. Make sure you can blow through the tubing.
Refit.
I gave it the mouth test. Diff oil doesn't taste good, but I could blow out through the tube.

------ Follow up post added July 22nd, 2015 01:23 PM ------

is the diff overfilled? pull the fill plug on the diff cover and report back
Thanks. I checked it yesterday. Pulled the plug, fluid was right at the bottom of the hole.

This darn thing didn't leak at all during the first 500km I drove it.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Stop driving it until you install longer wheel studs. Those nuts are held on by a few threads and borrowed time.
Thanks, I was sketched out at first, then I realized the nuts are shaped with a taper, and are longer/deeper (to accommodate longer studs) than normal. They are direct from Terrafirma as a set with the wheels. Not to say it is not on my list, or that I'm not going to keep an eye on them, but TF swears they are fine. I've got 20mm of thread engagement.
 

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Ive only ever used paper gaskets and I have never had a leak. I hate prying axles that have been glued to hubs with RTV. RTV has its place, drive flanges is not one of them.

------ Follow up post added July 22nd, 2015 03:55 PM ------

Ive only ever used paper gaskets and I have never had a leak. I hate prying axles that have been glued to hubs with RTV. RTV has its place, drive flanges is not one of them.
o and those wheel studs are sketchy
 

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Discussion Starter #14
That is what I did in the opening post to this thread, based on my search of the forum. Maybe I didn't get a good seal all the way around, but when I look at it and run q-tip around the flange, there is no fluid. It really seems to be coming out of the dust cap.

It is an easy enough job, I'll pull it off again and give it another go.
 

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Is it just me or does the axle cap have a crack in it? If so replace, it will leak oil faster then the flange will.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Is it just me or does the axle cap have a crack in it? If so replace, it will leak oil faster then the flange will.
The dust cap does have a crack. I have a replacement on the way.

Having said that, the dust cap is just that right, a dust cap, not a fluid retention device. My fear is that I put the new cap on and the symptom goes away, but the underlying problem gets worse.
 

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Isn't there an inner axle oil seal? Supposed to keep the gear oil in the diff.
If that seal is shot the only thing stopping it is that dust cap, which coincidentally has a crack in it.
Might as well plan on repacking your wheel bearings and changing gear oil.
And I've never had a problem with paper gaskets, ever.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Gasket maker is different than RTV/the right stuff etc. Seals well, but isn't think, and doesn't have that permabond. Works as a mild thread locker too.

-Jeff
Jeff, thanks. I used a gasket maker. I can't remember the brand, but it wasn't RTV or silicone, it was liquid gasket...

------ Follow up post added July 22nd, 2015 02:24 PM ------

Isn't there an inner axle oil seal? Supposed to keep the gear oil in the diff.
If that seal is shot the only thing stopping it is that dust cap, which coincidentally has a crack in it.
Might as well plan on repacking your wheel bearings and changing gear oil.
And I've never had a problem with paper gaskets, ever.
Being that the Defender is new to me I figure I might as well just order a hub rebuild kit and do both sides.

Thanks
 

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The dust cap does have a crack. I have a replacement on the way. Having said that, the dust cap is just that right, a dust cap, not a fluid retention device. My fear is that I put the new cap on and the symptom goes away, but the underlying problem gets worse.
It does seal flange. Oil will seep through the splines and out through the dust cap. No idea how the inner workings of the rover type rear axle work but on my salisbury the wheel bearings are oil lubricated and there is no seal to separate the bearings from the diff. At least with the sals, flanges are known to wear and this would allow for oil to leak at a faster rate. I would assume the 90 is the same since the flange appears to be the same. The later sals seem to be worse for wear as the splines and bearings are no longer oil lubricated by the diff and instead are packed with grease.
 

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fourth the dust cap. I ran without some up front for a few weeks and oil was everywhere on my front rims. Installed the caps and everything was dry.

Make sure you buy the soft rubber genuine caps. The hard plastic ones are no bueno.
 
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