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Discussion Starter #1
The engine swap in my right hand ROW D110 is well under way. I've already transplanted the 3.9L out of a 1994 D90 into it, and I hope I can get some answers here:

1) The ECU is meant to be mounted on the kick panel/bulkhead on the passenger side of the D90 which is the drivers side in the D110. Is there a knockout on the engine bay side, through which the EFI harness goes through? If not, what is the recommended solution?

2) The throttle mechanism of the 3.9L D90 is setup to work from the left (driver's side), but since the D110 is right hand, the throttle cable is too short, but most importantly is designed to work from the right side. Solution?

3) Finally, is there an wiring diagram available for the NAS trucks? I searched and couldn't find one. I found one for the EFI/ECU circuits, but not for the alternator, distributor, etc..
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Thanks to Andrew, I was able to find the electrical wiring diagrams, but still need some help with the other 2 questions.
 

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I used to have a 3.9 efi in a 90 (several rovers ago....), I can't remember which cable I used, but this one, SBB104100, springs to mind.

It's off of a 4.0 EFI 90 50th, special edition here in euroland. It was in all essence, a NAS 90 with roll up windows, metallic paint, lots of carpet and the frontscreen protection hoop thing.

drivetrain-wise it was NAS.... 4.0 V8 and 4speed auto.

The ECU on the 50th sat in the engine bay, using brackets NNU100680 and had a "splash guard" ERR6938 to cover it. not sure if they will help you at all.

This thread needs pics of the conversion! :)
 

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I ran the ECU/loom down under the trans tunnel and up through the seat box, into my locking center cubby.

Kent
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I used to have a 3.9 efi in a 90 (several rovers ago....), I can't remember which cable I used, but this one, SBB104100, springs to mind.

It's off of a 4.0 EFI 90 50th, special edition here in euroland. It was in all essence, a NAS 90 with roll up windows, metallic paint, lots of carpet and the frontscreen protection hoop thing.

drivetrain-wise it was NAS.... 4.0 V8 and 4speed auto.

The ECU on the 50th sat in the engine bay, using brackets NNU100680 and had a "splash guard" ERR6938 to cover it. not sure if they will help you at all.

This thread needs pics of the conversion! :)
Jim,

Thank you for the information on the ECU and Cable. I hadn't thought about mounting the ECU in the engine bay, always assuming that it would be better protected from the elements and the heat in the cabin. Your idea is pretty interesting though, and I will consider it.

As for the throttle cable, the issue is not the length or part number (thank you anyway!), but rather the configuration of the bracket. Since I have a Right Hand drive truck, the cable exits the firewall on the right side, and pulls the throttle mechanism. Since the new engine is a NAS, the throttle cable exits from the left, mounts to the bracket from the left, and also pulls the throttle mechanism.

In order for the existing (or new longer cable in this case) to work, it would have to be adapted to the existing bracket and mechanism. I just don't know how!

------ Follow up post added September 21st, 2015 09:54 AM ------

I ran the ECU/loom down under the trans tunnel and up through the seat box, into my locking center cubby.

Kent
Thanks Kent. Very good idea as well. Plenty of room there, but I'm not sure the wiring loom will reach, it looks too short. I'll have to measure it.
 

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3) Finally, is there an wiring diagram available for the NAS trucks? I searched and couldn't find one. I found one for the EFI/ECU circuits, but not for the alternator, distributor, etc..
Hey Samer... You have questions regarding wiring in a few threads so I thought I'd try to bring it all back into your original topic. My question is what is not working with your wiring harness??? I think the wiring code is similar among all LR's running 13cu to 14cux... so where are you stuck?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi Kevin. Thank you for the offer to help. My main issue is with identifying the plug in the ECU harness that provides power to the ECU. I identified it as being a black plug on my harness, but because it looked like the Lucas Diagnostic plug (in shape) used with Rover Gauge for example, most guys dismissed it as being that.

It turns out I have 2 similar looking plugs on my harness, the black one mentioned above with 5-pins and wires, and a white one with 5-pin positions with 3 wires only. Additionally this one has a mate that was hooked to it, which is why I dismissed it originally.

The black plug has heavier gauge wires in line with power carrying, while the white one has much thinner wires, more in line with a data connection. I am now convinced that the black one is the power plug. It has the following color codes, and associated function, except one I'm not sure about and can use help identifying:

1) Brown: +12v constant
2) White/Purple: Fuel Pump
3) Yellow: Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
4) White/Red: +12v Switched Ignition (I'm almost sure of this function)
5) Black: ??? - That's the one I couldn't identify.

What do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Typically, but I'm suspecting this one to be black with a yellow trace, in which case it is for the Check Engine light in the dash.
 

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You can always turn the plenium 180 and extend your harness for the TPS/IAC. If you're run'n the slushbox then you can get a longer kickdown cable from ashcroft or any RHD Disco. If you are not run'n AC or the slush box then the ECU doesn't require the signal for the VSS or the IAC.
 

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Jake, avery good idea indeed, but how do I get around that heater pipe that's sticking up? Unless I can cut it and cap it, the plenum won't clear. I don't even know what the purpose of this "extension" is, do you?

BTW, I am running a 5-speed, not a slush box, and will be installing A/C as well.
 

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Jake, avery good idea indeed, but how do I get around that heater pipe that's sticking up? Unless I can cut it and cap it, the plenum won't clear. I don't even know what the purpose of this "extension" is, do you?

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I believe that extension is for burping/purging air from the coolant system.


.
 

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I think you're on the right track. Black yellow may be the CEL but Rovershop's note points to the A/C.

------ Follow up post added September 23rd, 2015 03:44 PM ------

It's for filling/burping/bleeding. The older 3.5's don't have it. I have a spare & will trade you if you want to go that route.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I believe that extension is for burping/purging air from the coolant system.


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It does have a threaded cap on it. So, can it be shortened and capped in order to clear the plenum, or is it designed with a specific length/height in mind?
 

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Not sure of specific design requirements on the height other than sufficient height to capture and retain air that is otherwise floating through the coolant system.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I think you're on the right track. Black yellow may be the CEL but Rovershop's note points to the A/C.

------ Follow up post added September 23rd, 2015 03:44 PM ------

It's for filling/burping/bleeding. The older 3.5's don't have it. I have a spare & will trade you if you want to go that route.
Yes, Shayne's notes say A/C Lead Request (do not use). Not being argumentative, but 2 separate wiring diagrams say Malfunction Indicator Lamp or EFI Warning Symbol, which I can probably forgo, except that I want to title this truck in California, and I'm not sure if that is going to be a requirement in order for the vehicle to be compliant.

California CARB is very anal, and can be very strict when it comes to minutia like this.

As for the tube, is the one you have, exactly the same as in the picture I posted, but without the "filler neck"?

Thanks for all the help BTW.
 

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I too would default to the WSM but I just wanted to point out Shayne's note... not sure why he listed it as such. The EFI light is a nice thing to have for if / when something does act up.

Yes the pipes are interchangeable. I'm away for work so I can't snap a pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No worries. Whenever you get the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I have finally finished the engine swap and connected the ECU. The engine turns over but will not start or run.

I have spark and I have fuel, yet I can't get it to run. The ECU is getting power and the fault module is not showing any codes.
The MAF is also connected save for a single white wire with a push on male blade connector. I couldn't find any information on it, and I couldn't find a place to connect it to. White is typically switched ignition, so is that what this wire is for, and if so, could that be part of the problem?

What should I check next?
 
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