Engine Swap Options on '87 Rover V8

1853 Views 33 Replies 16 Participants Last post by Roverchef, 2 mo ago

cltmatters

Discussion Starter · 2 mo ago (Edited)

Hello - first time Defender owner. 1987 original Rover V8 engine (manual 5-speed transmission).

Took it in to have carb looked at, and we talked about whether it may make sense to do an engine rebuild or maybe even a swap if it was going to cost a lot to repair. They took heads off to look inside the motor and there was scoring in cylinder walls, with cracks. Number 7 had zero compression, as well. Originally, they hoped the valve was the only issue - it was not sealing up to the head.

First option was to repair the heads, but it quickly turned into a rebuild/overhaul of the original engine (125km on it). The quote was ~ $8500 to do the rebuild.

Alternatively, he's offered to do a swap to a low mileage LC9 or L94 5.3 or 6.0 engine for ~ $27k. Or to a sbc 350 engine, while keeping my current manual transmission and carb for ~$9500, or replace the carb with a Holley EFI for an additional ~ $2200.

This truck has a rebuilt title, which I don't know is common/uncommon... but worth mentioning.

Yes, I plan on keeping the truck for near every day driving - but I also want to make sure I make the best decision for future resale value. Would you A) rebuild the engine, B) swap for the sbc 350 engine with EFI? (I can't afford the LS engine)

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ionfender

· #2 · 2 mo ago

Is it a 3.5 V8? $8,500 rebuild strikes me as high. That engine is is a gas guzzling dog…I’d lean towards replacing it if you’re up for it.

What trans. is in the truck?

Really depends on your budget, desires and the condition of the truck.

Can’t go wrong with the LS.

Straight 6 Chevy is also an option that many have done with positive results.

Reactions: 1

cltmatters

Discussion Starter · #3 · 2 mo ago

Yes, it's the original 3.5 V8. It's currently a 5-speed manual transmission (although my preference would be to swap to automatic). I just don't have the budget for the LS. As long as the community doesn't think the small block chevy swap is weak sauce, I think I'd prefer that than rebuilding the current. I'm not thinking the 1987 model is really a desirable model for an enthusiast anyway.

ionfender said:
Is it a 3.5 V8? $8,500 rebuild strikes me as high. That engine is is a gas guzzling dog…I’d lean towards replacing it if you’re up for it.

What trans. is in the truck?

Really depends on your budget, desires and the condition of the truck.

Can’t go wrong with the LS.

Straight 6 Chevy is also an option that many have done with positive results.

KW1985Def110

· #4 · 2 mo ago

A SBC350 is going to be too much power for your current tranny IMHO.
If you’re set on the 350, start researching tranny options that’ll connect to your LT230.

phoenix37

· #5 · 2 mo ago

Are you at all mechanical? Should take a day to swap your engine for another 3.9-4.6 V8.. Running take outs show up for sale quite often.

The LS /350 swap numbers seems high.. I did a junkyard 5.3 LS for less than $10k.

Reactions: 3

cltmatters

Discussion Starter · #6 · 2 mo ago

Unfortunately I'm not mechanical. Otherwise, I'd go for it to save the money. I called two others who are known for reputable engine swaps, and their quotes were much higher. I guess the market is just hot for this type of work - or the labor is just time consuming and expensive.

phoenix37 said:
Are you at all mechanical? Should take a day to swap your engine for another 3.9-4.6 V8.. Running take outs show up for sale quite often.

The LS /350 swap numbers seems high.. I did a junkyard 5.3 LS for less than $10k.

carlosz

· #7 · 2 mo ago

well there is a lot of work to be done in an engine conversion. from many phone calls to parts procuring, cutting, welding and customizing mount points, adaptors, fueling system, exhaust, wiring, fitting and testing, etc. even when the shop performing work has experience, the job it self is involved over all.

straight replacement with another rover engine is about 24 hrs labor at max, plus engine and parts such as gaskets, seals, oils coolant, belts, mounts ,water pump, radiator (possible shot at this age), etc. this does not include engine removal from donor vehicle.

Reactions: 1

hanzo111

· #8 · 2 mo ago

inline 6 250ci is the way to go in my opinion. Relatively inexpensive, easy swap and nothing gets modified. literally bolt the adapter to the trans, install the flywheel on the 250 with the defender clutch pack, bolt it in, bolt in the dust shield, starter and 6 wires. kook up fuel line to the mechanical pump along with throttle linkage and you are done! nothing else to play with. The only other consideration is sending units for your gauges, they are sold with the correct ohm rating to operate the factory gauge cluster.

Reactions: 3

pfshoen

· #9 · 2 mo ago

Not sure why you say your model isn't desirable for an enthusiast. Is it a County? In 1987 the V8 was the highest spec at the time.
The Rover V8 is pretty common and rebuilds aren't rocket science so can be rebuilt at reasonable cost.
The only way to get decent fuel economy is go for a Tdi.
The Chev 6 would be my first choice for a swap.
The older I get the more I like keeping a vehicle stock.

Uncle Douglas

· #10 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

Dicovery 1 Gems v8, auto & tcase bolt right in ( no drilling, cutting or welding) and require only an in tank fuel pump & minimal wiring (covered in other threads here) . We reuse the d1 auto trans hairbrush cooler. Massive difference in drive ability, economy, and performance. I wouldn’t waste a dime on rebuilding a 3.5. In fact we have a 3.5 here that was rebuilt in Africa you can have for $750. Ran strong when pulled for Cummins swap. We will never use it.

Reactions: 2

phoenix37

· #11 · 2 mo ago

Uncle Douglas said:
Dicovery 1 Gems v8, auto & tcase bolt right in ( no drilling, cutting or welding) and require only an in tank fuel pump & minimal wiring (covered in other threads here) . We reuse the d1 auto trans hairbrush cooler. Massive difference in drive ability, economy, and performance. I wouldn’t waste a dime on rebuilding a 3.5. In fact we have a 3.5 here that was rebuilt in Africa you can have for $750. Ran strong when pulled for Cummins swap. We will never use it.

And let me guess.. it wouldnt take you 24hrs to swap them...

Reactions: 2

Uncle Douglas

· #12 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

4

phoenix37 said:
And let me guess.. it wouldnt take you 24hrs to swap them...

No, wouldn’t go there.
But we do lift the entire lump (engine,trans,tcase) in with all ancillaries as a single piece. Typically switch to the euro shorter belt no a/c compressor setup. Currently building my daughter a lhd 110 5 door using the drivetrain from a d1 she rolled in “spare” time. In month 13. Galv frame, galv cappings, galv T posts, & galv bulkhead. Doors are also all steel/galvanized ones I’m currently building out the shells. Given her history of rolling multiple vehicles it’s getting a full external SD cage. Old pics from last fall. So far has all been outside, inside is full of customer trucks. Part of delay is I’m also painting it myself piece by piece.
Trey just grudgingly installed the lokar shifter and linkages yesterday. He doesn’t like helping with a truck for his sister. Current plan is to run this one to up to Ny for Jubilee event work weekend in May and then up to Maine to help a friend put up a timber frame cabin the following week ( got most of this trucks body from same guy for $400 & a bottle of Buffalo Trace). If it does that 2k test drive we’ll hand it off to her.

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pfshoen

· #13 · 2 mo ago

Stock D1's have pretty civilized handling with anti-sway bars. The 110 has a longer wheelbase but sits higher. Of course, no lift and anti-sway bars would help. Maybe something else?
I took my teenage son to a youth safety driving school at Thunderhill years ago. Since then he's managed to keep the rubber side down.
My teenage nephew took the Bondurant School of High Performance Driving at Firebird. A week later he rolled his BMW.
Good luck.

Uncle Douglas

· #14 · 2 mo ago

pfshoen said:
Stock D1's have pretty civilized handling with anti-sway bars. The 110 has a longer wheelbase but sits higher. Of course, no lift and anti-sway bars would help. Maybe something else?
I took my teenage son to a youth safety driving school at Thunderhill years ago. Since then he's managed to keep the rubber side down.
My teenage nephew took the Bondurant School of High Performance Driving at Firebird. A week later he rolled his BMW.
Good luck.

Her accidents happened 11(15yrs old learners permit) & 5yrs ago. Her last d1 was lifted & on 235/85 mt’s. She’ll be 27 shortly. She’s been to a hand full of MAR events, National Rally in Colorado multiple years, GARR @ Moab. Done the Rim Rocker, Alpine Loop etc. She has the passion, & more off road experience than most on this site. Hopefully @ 27 has the appreciation and maturity. She’s registered for 75th Jubilee @ Greek Peak with this truck.

pfshoen

· #15 · 2 mo ago

Until this latest batch of retro high powered Trophy etc. editions, Land Rover never intended for the Defender to be driven fast. As a practical matter, appropriate caution will allow almost any rig to be driven safely. But in certain terrain, the Rubicon for example, heads will roll.
I told my son that mistakes made before adulthood don't show up in the box score.

Reactions: 2

o2batsea

· #16 · 2 mo ago

You should really look at the overall health of the current engine. Just because it's old doesn't mean it needs a complete rebuild. Even if you were to have the engine taken out, you can still get a lot more power out of it in its current state. Camshaft is probably the pace to start. There are several available from piper and crower that will absolutely wake up that tired old dog. Then consider other improvements such as converting to later fuel injection system, lightened flywheel, exhaust headers, and free flow muffler. Also there are high performance heads. You can get around 300 hp out of it without spending too terribly much. Then there's forced induction....

Reactions: 3

terryjm1

· #17 · 2 mo ago (Edited)

I have come across a couple recently rebuilt and running very well 3.5 engines pulled for swaps for very reasonable prices. The $750 one mentioned above probably is your least expensive and fastest route to get back on the road and likely for a very long time. Any decent shop can do the work.

If you want to go automatic a complete D1 4.0 / auto pull out is another less costly option and will give you a performance boost a bit. It is more work than swapping in another 3.5 and it would be better to go with a shop with experience with such a swap.

The inline GM 6 cylinder is also a reasonably priced option that makes a lot of practical sense. Those inline 6 engines are simple and very reliable while delivering good performance.

None of those options give you anything like an LS or Cummins but obviously you are in a whole different world of cost to have it done for you.

I have a D1 with 5 speed manual trans and a very low mileage 4.0. I am very happy with the performance and I live at high altitude where you lose some power, I think the 4.0 can get a bad rap because when they get up in miles the camshaft gets worn out and you lose performance, Older SUVs were never intended to be driven fast. I certainly wouldn’t mind having an LS as it would make pulling a trailer a more enjoyable experience. They also have the benefits of more modern systems. However, the thought of driving any old Land Rover fast isn‘s for me. I have cars made to be driven “fast” and when I feel the need to be pushed back into my seat, those come out.

I prefer a manual trans. If it were mine and I was trying to stay within a budget I’d keep the manual trans and go with the 3.5 mentioned above.

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Reactions: 1

Uncle Douglas

· #18 · 2 mo ago

o2batsea said:
You should really look at the overall health of the current engine. Just because it's old doesn't mean it needs a complete rebuild. Even if you were to have the engine taken out, you can still get a lot more power out of it in its current state. Camshaft is probably the pace to start. There are several available from piper and crower that will absolutely wake up that tired old dog. Then consider other improvements such as converting to later fuel injection system, lightened flywheel, exhaust headers, and free flow muffler. Also there are high performance heads. You can get around 300 hp out of it without spending too terribly much. Then there's forced induction....

You caught the part where he said there are visible cracks in the cyl walls ?

o2batsea

· #19 · 2 mo ago

Uncle Douglas said:
You caught the part where he said there are visible cracks in the cyl walls ?

Oh, nope. Well I know where there are about 15 or so good V8s waiting for new homes and could have him back in business for under $1000.

cltmatters

Discussion Starter · #20 · 2 mo ago

Um - I'm listening. Per my earlier message, I'm not mechanical myself so would need to have someone do the labor. Anywhere near the Carolinas?

o2batsea said:
Oh, nope. Well I know where there are about 15 or so good V8s waiting for new homes and could have him back in business for under $1000.

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