fuse is most likely. You will have to install smart load unless you change to a flasher relay that's designed for LED.
Electrical - No brake lights or turn signals
Hi all -
My brake lights, rear running lights, and turn signals are not working.
I just started installing my new WIPAC LED conversion kit on my 1988 D90. I cut the connectors on the two tail-lights and wired them to the car using crimps. Ground to ground, red to red, and green to green. So far I have only wired on the two rear brake-lights and am waiting to do anything else until I solve this.
Brake lights previously worked before putting on the LEDs. I am now not only getting no brake lights, but also no rear running lamps, or turn signals. Hazard lights still work. I tried testing the brake lights after I installed the first one, before I installed the second rear brake light - and also had no turn signals or rear brake lights (on both the new LED and old bulb)
Does anyone have any advise? I am thinking that I may have blown the fuse? Maybe while I was testing them with one LED and one conventional light? I have also not installed any smart load-devices or anything yet (hoping i wouldnt have to)
Thanks in advance, I appreciate help/ suggestions.
My brake lights, rear running lights, and turn signals are not working.
I just started installing my new WIPAC LED conversion kit on my 1988 D90. I cut the connectors on the two tail-lights and wired them to the car using crimps. Ground to ground, red to red, and green to green. So far I have only wired on the two rear brake-lights and am waiting to do anything else until I solve this.
Brake lights previously worked before putting on the LEDs. I am now not only getting no brake lights, but also no rear running lamps, or turn signals. Hazard lights still work. I tried testing the brake lights after I installed the first one, before I installed the second rear brake light - and also had no turn signals or rear brake lights (on both the new LED and old bulb)
Does anyone have any advise? I am thinking that I may have blown the fuse? Maybe while I was testing them with one LED and one conventional light? I have also not installed any smart load-devices or anything yet (hoping i wouldnt have to)
Thanks in advance, I appreciate help/ suggestions.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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If nothing works, suspect you have lost ground or if working with them turned on, popped
A fuse. Have found that sometimes the red and green in the supplied pig tail are incorrect and need to be reversed. Easy to determine with a meter.
What Jason said about load resisters, we have had to utilize load resisters and an adjustable
Flasher relay to get the right rate and to turn the trailer light off.
If nothing works, suspect you have lost ground or if working with them turned on, popped
A fuse. Have found that sometimes the red and green in the supplied pig tail are incorrect and need to be reversed. Easy to determine with a meter.
What Jason said about load resisters, we have had to utilize load resisters and an adjustable
Flasher relay to get the right rate and to turn the trailer light off.
If installed correctly, everything works without any kind of load resistors and you won't blow a fuse because you have a mix of incandescent and LED lightbulbs. Unless you're hot-wiring things with the circuit energized, it's also just about impossible to blow the fuse.
I found that the WIPAC color scheme on the lights is reversed, for both the indicator lights as well as sidelights/stop lights. Chances are, this is what's causing your grief.
Check out my post here: https://www.defendersource.com/forum/f48/wipac-led-kit-install-161184.html
Basically, for indicator lights, black goes to green instead of black and white goes to black, instead of, first of all, being green, and then going to green wire as well. In your case, In your case, I'd just try to reverse the wires to see if it solves the problem - if it does then that's what the issue is.
For rear side lights/stoplights, it's white to red, red to green and, hallelujah, black to black.
DO NOT start installing resistors, you're defeating the purpose of reducing the load on the circuit by going LED. If you have to, instead just keep one of the lightbulbs incandescent (I have kept my side markers in the front wings that way).
85% of the time you won't need them and would only install them if every single lightbulb in your car is LED and you need to artificially increase the resistance of your circuits to get your lights to work.
I found that the WIPAC color scheme on the lights is reversed, for both the indicator lights as well as sidelights/stop lights. Chances are, this is what's causing your grief.
Check out my post here: https://www.defendersource.com/forum/f48/wipac-led-kit-install-161184.html
Basically, for indicator lights, black goes to green instead of black and white goes to black, instead of, first of all, being green, and then going to green wire as well. In your case, In your case, I'd just try to reverse the wires to see if it solves the problem - if it does then that's what the issue is.
For rear side lights/stoplights, it's white to red, red to green and, hallelujah, black to black.
DO NOT start installing resistors, you're defeating the purpose of reducing the load on the circuit by going LED. If you have to, instead just keep one of the lightbulbs incandescent (I have kept my side markers in the front wings that way).
85% of the time you won't need them and would only install them if every single lightbulb in your car is LED and you need to artificially increase the resistance of your circuits to get your lights to work.
Thanks a lot for the help. I will check the fuse and try to reverse the white and red....
Any idea on how I can check if I "lost my ground"?
I read somewhere that the two tail-lights are grounded together somewhere to the chasis - hence both potentially going out together?
Will report back with the changed fuse and reversing the wires. Thank you
Any idea on how I can check if I "lost my ground"?
I read somewhere that the two tail-lights are grounded together somewhere to the chasis - hence both potentially going out together?
Will report back with the changed fuse and reversing the wires. Thank you
Replaced the fuses. My turn signals work.
I took a volt meter and measure voltage from the wires... im getting almost nothing, like 0.2V at best. When i held the volt meter to the ground and the black/green wire, it burned my thumb a little but so i am getting some voltage on the black/green but nothing on the red.
Any help is GREATLY appreciated
I took a volt meter and measure voltage from the wires... im getting almost nothing, like 0.2V at best. When i held the volt meter to the ground and the black/green wire, it burned my thumb a little but so i am getting some voltage on the black/green but nothing on the red.
Any help is GREATLY appreciated
So you blew the " impossible to blow fuse". Glad you figured it out.
You gonna go through a lot of fuses if you are doing a skin voltage test....Replaced the fuses. My turn signals work.
I took a volt meter and measure voltage from the wires... im getting almost nothing, like 0.2V at best. When i held the volt meter to the ground and the black/green wire, it burned my thumb a little but so i am getting some voltage on the black/green but nothing on the red.
Any help is GREATLY appreciated
One of the wires is for the stop light that is only energized with the ignition key in the “acc” or “on” position and a brake pedal is depressed.
Still getting no light with the ignition key in the "acc" or "on" position with the brake pedal depressed. Somehow the green wire is getting voltage but the red is getting none.
Is it possible i broke some sort of connection for the red wire? any ideas why these LEDs are still not giving off any light?
thank you thank you
Is it possible i broke some sort of connection for the red wire? any ideas why these LEDs are still not giving off any light?
thank you thank you
Replaced the fuses. My turn signals work.
I took a volt meter and measure voltage from the wires... im getting almost nothing, like 0.2V at best. When i held the volt meter to the ground and the black/green wire, it burned my thumb a little but so i am getting some voltage on the black/green but nothing on the red.
Any help is GREATLY appreciated
you need to get a wiring diagram and color code legend before you go touching wires to anything. There shouldn’t be a black/green wire in that rear loom; it should be a green/black wire (green main color/black trace color). That wire has nothing to do with the lights, it’s for the fuel sender.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
See the opening part of the sentence “unless you are hot-wiring stuff with the circuit energized”.So you blew the " impossible to blow fuse". Glad you figured it out.
Stop light is a separate fuse from sidelight. Seeing your luck with the fuses, might want to check that one as well. It’s typically on the same circuit as the dashlight and turn indicators.Still getting no light with the ignition key in the "acc" or "on" position with the brake pedal depressed. Somehow the green wire is getting voltage but the red is getting none.
Is it possible i broke some sort of connection for the red wire? any ideas why these LEDs are still not giving off any light?
thank you thank you
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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