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Discussion Starter #1
Both my door key locks mysteriously started seizing up recently. I am wondering if it's desert dust jamming the mechanisms as I've lubed the cylinders quite frequently. My driver door won't open and my passenger door will open but under resistance but the echutcheon (or what-you-might-call-it) never pops up. Since I broke my last door key and don't have any more spares I ordered some new ones by looking up the correct size. The new door keys however are much larger than what I currently have. The new door keys are about the same size as the ignition key while my existing door keys are much smaller. Any idea which one is correct?

Perhaps this is a good time to re-key so that the ignition and doors use the same key? I will post pictures tonight for comparison. Advice appreciated.
 

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Carl,
I had the same issue with my door locks. I removed the tumbler and threw them in the ultrasonic cleaner for a short time filled with M-Pro 7. I lubes up the rest of the locking mechanism with silicon spray and put it back together. All is now well.
 

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I believe the newer door locks, Puma, have a longer key barrel for the push button doors. Thus the longer door lock key. The older trucks use a shorter barrel and thus a shorter key.
 

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Yes that is right Capt. The Puma type door locks are longer so that the single ignition key can do double duty. Earlier doors use the smaller key.
 

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Damit. I ordered the wrong replacement key blank then. Where can you get the smaller version blanks? I'll have to tear off the door cards this weekend to see whats up.
 

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They should be freely available off of Ebay. If you have the little code tag you can order new keys from Land Rover with that. If not, just buy a complete set of keys and new lock barrels off of ebay. They are cheap for those older, short lock barrels and keys.
 

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"...Both my door key locks mysteriously started seizing up recently. I am wondering if it's desert dust jamming the mechanisms as I've lubed the cylinders quite frequently...Advice appreciated."
Best to use a dry film lubricant, like graphite, for lock cylinders as these types won't attract dirt like the others do, which will cause premature wear.


Regards,
Art
 

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I think you're right. I'm afraid by regularly lubricating the cylinders with an oil based lubricant I have made things worse. I don't think its a coincidence that it got worse after my dusty trip to the Alvord desert. I lubed it right before I left and now its much worse. The oil must be attracting the dust and jamming it up.

Best to use a dry film lubricant, like graphite, for lock cylinders as these types won't attract dirt like the others do, which will cause premature wear.


Regards,
Art
 

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Graphite is good but you never know how much the little bottle squirts in.
Too much and it can compact-up and cause problems too.
The best solution I have found is silicon spray.
The aromatics in it help dissolve congealed grease and the silicon leaves a slippery surface on the moving parts.
 

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In my 40 years of fighting stuck locks I have found that soaking a lock mechanism in benzine (highly flammable) overnight in a closeable plastic bottle and then shaking it hard the next day almost always cleans the lock 100%. Then a spray with silicone and then the silicone blasted away with compressed air is better than anything I have come across. Oiling a lock just attracts all the dust in the air. If the lock is not worn out this almost always solves the problem long term.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
All great advice. I used a different lube that got sticky when dry which is why they seized. Yesterday I sprayed the heck out of the cylinders with WD-40 and they're working fine again. The problem is that the little doors that are supposed to cover the key slot are stuck in an open position so all the dirt road dust goes straight inside.
 
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