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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There's been a couple of posts on this here, but none had a complete story, start to finish, with fuse ratings, etc. so, I figured, I'd repost my story here:

Why do it? If your vehicle is as old as mine, chances are, fuse holders are loose, corroded, and just aren’t as reliable as they should be. Plus, getting those lower amperage fuses is a PiTA, you can’t just walk into any store on the road and get them.



Parts you need:
A) New fuse box bracket - AMR3138 (or you can modify the existing one).
B) Decent quality crimping tool
C) Fuse blade connectors
D) Fuse holder PRC4826

C) and D) are best purchased together on Ebay (plenty of UK-based sellers offer this kit, just search for “Defender fuse holder PRC4826” and the kits come up).



Then I disconnected the negative terminal. Being anal-retentive, I switched every glass fuse terminal pair to blade fuse individually – i.e., cut, crimp, insert the right fuse, connect the negative terminal and test.
It does takes a bit more time but guarantees you will have everything working when you’re done. And if something doesn’t work, it’ll be just the one connection you just switched that you would need to troubleshoot.



Wire pairs going to one terminal are tricky. I soldered mine together, covered with a heatsrink, and then crimped.



Once all the connections have been transitioned, just push them into the new fuse box. I tried to keep the similar sequence as the original fuse box.



If the wire loom is too tight to allow you install the fuse box back, you will need to pull the lower dash off and readjust the loom to make sure you get enough slack so that there’s not too much stress on the wires. I had to do it, unfortunately.

Otherwise, just bolt everything in, install the cover and enjoy your new life where fuses no longer jump out of their holders when you’re driving on bad roads. Hands down the best $50 mod I’ve done to my vehicle so far.





Here’s the original fuse layout with ratings:



Here’s the new fuse layout with ratings (note the US blade fuse rating is different from the original UK, as one is rated for continuous current, and the other one for peak):

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Oops, I did it again....

Here’s the new fuse layout with ratings (note the US blade fuse rating is different from the original UK, as one is rated for continuous current, and the other one for peak):
I posted this much later than I've done this job and too late in the day and made a mistake in my instructions above: the ratings on the original LR Diagram show ratings for continuous current, not peak, and match the new blade fuse ratings.
When doing this job I made a mistake of reducing the ratings assuming the diagram had them show peak ratings in the UK tradition, but I was wrong.

Here's a picture of the original fuses, showing continuous ratings, matching the diagram (these are the 8A continuous/15A blow fuses for the 8A fuses for headlights in the above original diagram):
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I drew it myself, haven't printed it yet, but the plan is to print it on vinyl and stick it over the old one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
You can find repro ones on eBay. I got one for the Raptor Fuse cover on my Ex-mod and it looks pretty nice.

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Yeah, but the fuses I've installed don't match the original ratings 100% for the original older ROW 110. There's no such thing as an 2.5, 8A, 12A or 17A blade fuse, for example, those had to be replaced with 3A, 7.5A, 10/15A and 15A accordingly. Hence the "homemade" custom-made sticker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So far - so good (almost 6 months of daily driving).

The only circuit giving me trouble is a rear defroster, which so far I've sized up from 10A to 15A.
I suspect a not-so-great neutral contact.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You're right, looks like PRC4826 is NLA and out of stock everywhere.
And some even had a "going away gluttony fest", offering them at GBP70/piece (originally something like GBP7 for a kit).



Market is full of other options, though.
 

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Yes. But it says they are coming. Someone that wants them should check and see if they are serious.
 
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