There's been a couple of posts on this here, but none had a complete story, start to finish, with fuse ratings, etc. so, I figured, I'd repost my story here:
Why do it? If your vehicle is as old as mine, chances are, fuse holders are loose, corroded, and just aren’t as reliable as they should be. Plus, getting those lower amperage fuses is a PiTA, you can’t just walk into any store on the road and get them.
Parts you need:
A) New fuse box bracket - AMR3138 (or you can modify the existing one).
B) Decent quality crimping tool
C) Fuse blade connectors
D) Fuse holder PRC4826
C) and D) are best purchased together on Ebay (plenty of UK-based sellers offer this kit, just search for “Defender fuse holder PRC4826” and the kits come up).
Then I disconnected the negative terminal. Being anal-retentive, I switched every glass fuse terminal pair to blade fuse individually – i.e., cut, crimp, insert the right fuse, connect the negative terminal and test.
It does takes a bit more time but guarantees you will have everything working when you’re done. And if something doesn’t work, it’ll be just the one connection you just switched that you would need to troubleshoot.
Wire pairs going to one terminal are tricky. I soldered mine together, covered with a heatsrink, and then crimped.
Once all the connections have been transitioned, just push them into the new fuse box. I tried to keep the similar sequence as the original fuse box.
If the wire loom is too tight to allow you install the fuse box back, you will need to pull the lower dash off and readjust the loom to make sure you get enough slack so that there’s not too much stress on the wires. I had to do it, unfortunately.
Otherwise, just bolt everything in, install the cover and enjoy your new life where fuses no longer jump out of their holders when you’re driving on bad roads. Hands down the best $50 mod I’ve done to my vehicle so far.
Here’s the original fuse layout with ratings:
Here’s the new fuse layout with ratings (note the US blade fuse rating is different from the original UK, as one is rated for continuous current, and the other one for peak):
Why do it? If your vehicle is as old as mine, chances are, fuse holders are loose, corroded, and just aren’t as reliable as they should be. Plus, getting those lower amperage fuses is a PiTA, you can’t just walk into any store on the road and get them.

Parts you need:
A) New fuse box bracket - AMR3138 (or you can modify the existing one).
B) Decent quality crimping tool
C) Fuse blade connectors
D) Fuse holder PRC4826
C) and D) are best purchased together on Ebay (plenty of UK-based sellers offer this kit, just search for “Defender fuse holder PRC4826” and the kits come up).

Then I disconnected the negative terminal. Being anal-retentive, I switched every glass fuse terminal pair to blade fuse individually – i.e., cut, crimp, insert the right fuse, connect the negative terminal and test.
It does takes a bit more time but guarantees you will have everything working when you’re done. And if something doesn’t work, it’ll be just the one connection you just switched that you would need to troubleshoot.

Wire pairs going to one terminal are tricky. I soldered mine together, covered with a heatsrink, and then crimped.

Once all the connections have been transitioned, just push them into the new fuse box. I tried to keep the similar sequence as the original fuse box.

If the wire loom is too tight to allow you install the fuse box back, you will need to pull the lower dash off and readjust the loom to make sure you get enough slack so that there’s not too much stress on the wires. I had to do it, unfortunately.
Otherwise, just bolt everything in, install the cover and enjoy your new life where fuses no longer jump out of their holders when you’re driving on bad roads. Hands down the best $50 mod I’ve done to my vehicle so far.


Here’s the original fuse layout with ratings:

Here’s the new fuse layout with ratings (note the US blade fuse rating is different from the original UK, as one is rated for continuous current, and the other one for peak):
