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Discussion Starter #41
sorry for any typos, i'm dealing w recent elbow surgery here...

if you feel this is ignition-related, please check the distributor. i'm not sure if this applies to GEMS ignitions, but this was also a mysterious issue in my 95 nas d90 because....

the rotor sticks onto the distributor shaft. when one removes the rotor by pulling up, and it sticks, it damages the clip on the bottom of the distributor shaft. hence, at about 1200 or 1500 or 1800 rpm, the timing is changing as the distributor shaft now moves inapprpriately up and down as it should not be allowed to move.

if this is the case, the fix is to replace the dist shaft clip (on bottom) or dist shaft as well. you will see too much up and down play on the distributor shaft. check this by temporarily installing a known good distributor

i now use channel locks to fracture and break apart the rotor before i take it off the shaft vs pulling on the vulnerable dist shaft and clip via the rotor

use anti-seize on the female mount of the new rotor also
Hello aquaman, thanks for joining the conversation. The 97 is slightly different than your 95. I do appreciate your input.
 

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Ofender, re- reading your first post about engine swap, check all your harnesses and connectors maybe something was swapped by mistake I/E on bosh engines it is easy to swap left coil connector with idle bypass valve. a pinched or damaged wire maybe.
if you have access to an advanced scanner such as snap-on solus or similar, graph all sensors associated with engine performance.
idle air control, throtle position, crank position, cam position, speed sensor, all abs sensors (yes it has an abs ecu and abs wheel sensors even thou it does not have abs brakes, it is related to engine performance and wired into engine ecu). see injector pulse width and cylinder spark contribution, do not worry about knock sensor performance or mass airflow performance, do check for any air leaks on the intake hose between mass airflow and engine. most important check if you have any OBD2 codes.
it is a man made object, man can fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
MY UPDATE AND REVIEW / October 17, 2020

Flex Plate.jpg
After inspection on the flex plate I found one missing “ear” or the crankshaft sensor pick up tabs. I plan on removing the motor to change it in the next few weeks. Would anyone know if this could cause my situation?
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Thanks BarryO, I hope someone here knows for sure. I have done a search and found several pictures. None of the images show any missing teeth. Maybe like you, I know some Asian manufactures have missing teeth to match the cam and crankshaft timing. I would like to know; 1.) should the flex plate have any missing teeth? 2.) will a missing tooth cause my miss-fire condition?
 

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I had a a RRC doing the exact thing. Turned out to be the section of submersible fuel hose connected to the pump in the tank had disintegrated enough to allow it to run not go over 1500rpm. The fuel pressure was leaking back into the tank at rpm not much higher than idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Thanks for your input. Did you check the fuel pressures to diagnose this? I would like to know your numbers. I'm curious because I was concerned but tested; 1.) Key on / engine off 2.) engine running 3.) under load 4.) fuel regulator. Because of the good numbers, I decided NOT to drop the fuel tank to inspect. See my detailed notes in post #38. Maybe something for me to revisit.
 

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I have had so many issues with my 94 NAS that I am forgetting which symptoms match with the many fixes. But I had the same problem myself. I do not know if this applies to the 97s as it did to my 94, but you might wish to look into an Ignition Amplifier Module Relocation Kit . It took at least three LR specialists to tell me about this, but finally a former LR master tech from South Africa pointed it out to me and many problems disappeared since. Rovers North sells them.
Yes, I echo this point. Replace the ignition module and carefully check the wires going to it. I had a similar problem in the past and this was the cause. I replaced the module and ran new wires.

Also, check the fuse for the fuel pump to ensure it’s not damaged, as ran water will sometimes run down and corrode the contact.


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Discussion Starter #51
Thanks Roverchef. I was not aware of this a few days ago but I am now. I have provided the red mark on this flex plate and think it illustrates the only gap that aligns the crankshaft and cam sensors. Absolutely no teeth should be miss-aligned or broken off. I have learned that Land Rover actually has a special tool to check the specific distance between the two teeth. I'm using a small flat blade screwdriver as a go / no-go gauge. I use a needle nose plyers to carefully bend the teeth for consistency if needed. The green arrow is where you can notice a missing tooth.

I plan to remove my engine this weekend to replace the damaged flex plate. Will this cure my problem after so many months? I'll surly will let everyone at Defender Source know. If anyone of you have nothing else to do; your welcome drop by and join in on the fun. Pizza and beer on on me Saturday night when we start it up to find out.
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