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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ARRRGGGHHH
Banging Head



Quick back story: One day my clutch pedal became rock solid, literally wouldn't move, found out it was my clutch fork. I bought a new one, did the "Welded Plate" mod to prevent this issue from reoccurring.

So just as I thought the issue was resolved.... here comes another issue.... I changed the clutch fork, reinstalled the gearbox onto the engine, bolted up both propshafts, reconnected the T Case linkage, bled the clutch fluid by the slave cylinder...

Now I am unable to shift the gear stick into any gear, it literally refuses to go into gear, however when I put the transfer gear into Neutral the gears go in but obviously there's no drive since T-Case is in Neutral.

With the clutch pressed in, when I try to put it into gear, I can feel the truck trying to move forward while I am trying to put it into gear. So, it's almost acting as though there was no pressure on the clutch pedal even though everything was bled and had good pressure to the pedal.

Any idea what could be causing this? The clutch was fine prior to this.
 

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If the truck is off, and you put the t-case into gear, and the gearbox into one of the gears, does the truck start to lurch forward when you turn the ignition?

If so, it's probably a hydraulic issue, and there's an issue with the slave or master.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If the truck is off, and you put the t-case into gear, and the gearbox into one of the gears, does the truck start to lurch forward when you turn the ignition?

If so, it's probably a hydraulic issue, and there's an issue with the slave or master.
Hey man, thanks for replying so quickly, I haven't tried this as yet, but I believe it would want to lurch forward, I will confirm this in the morning.

I did have to remove the slave from the gearbox in order to remove the gearbox, the bleed nipple is positioned at the top of the slave indicating its bolted up correctly I assume.
 

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It sounds like you have 1 of 2 problems: either your clutch has air and/or needs adjusting, or the clutch rod that goes into the slave cylinder is out of place.

Also have found that in order to get the air out of the clutch hydraulics it requires adjusting the clutch petal for max throw and then as you bleed out the air, adjusting the clutch so the petal movement is reduced so the clutch engages about mid way through the petal movement.
This translates to the clutch grabs not too far down and not too near the top.
This requires a lot of adjusting until you get the petal just right.
If it's too high it may slip when warm and if it's too low you may not be able to get the transmission in gear when it's warm.
again, don't forget that during bleeding if the clutch adjustment does not have enough throw, you won't be able to get the air out and if you can't get the air out, the clutch won't function properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It sounds like you have 1 of 2 problems: either your clutch has air and/or needs adjusting, or the clutch rod that goes into the slave cylinder is out of place.

Also have found that in order to get the air out of the clutch hydraulics it requires adjusting the clutch petal for max throw and then as you bleed out the air, adjusting the clutch so the petal movement is reduced so the clutch engages about mid way through the petal movement.
This translates to the clutch grabs not too far down and not too near the top.
This requires a lot of adjusting until you get the petal just right.
If it's too high it may slip when warm and if it's too low you may not be able to get the transmission in gear when it's warm.
again, don't forget that during bleeding if the clutch adjustment does not have enough throw, you won't be able to get the air out and if you can't get the air out, the clutch won't function properly.
Ok I will attempt adjusting the pedal and see if that works.

One question that's been on my mind though, do you think it's a possibility that by some chance the clutch throw-out bearing isn't centered correctly?? Why I ask this is because I didn't have the little clip thingy you use to center the bearing onto the splined gearbox shaft, also I am hearing a slight rattle sound coming from the gearbox tunnel which is really making me feel as though I didn't put up something correctly.

Do you think this can also be a factor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If the truck is off, and you put the t-case into gear, and the gearbox into one of the gears, does the truck start to lurch forward when you turn the ignition?

If so, it's probably a hydraulic issue, and there's an issue with the slave or master.
So today I did as you said, put the truck into first gear while it was off, T Case into high gear, when I swing the key the truck lurches forward............ and now with the truck off I CAN'T EVEN GET THE GEAR STICK OUT OF GEAR!! 😩😩😩😩

Pressing in the clutch does not get it out of gear which is telling me the pressure plate is not disengaging the clutch plate.
 

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If he raises one wheel off the ground will that release the strain on the drive train which would then allow the shift to neutral?
 

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In general, I can't imagine why it wouldnt shift gears when the truck is off unless there's a linkage issue or something internal to the transmission.

If the truck doesnt shift out of gear while the vehicle is off, clutch hydraulics wouldnt be my concern.
 

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In general, I can't imagine why it wouldnt shift gears when the truck is off unless there's a linkage issue or something internal to the transmission.

If the truck doesnt shift out of gear while the vehicle is off, clutch hydraulics wouldnt be my concern.
It is because there is pressure on the drivetrain from the wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hmmmm.... but I still have really good pressure at the clutch pedal, I can hear the fork pressing against the pressure plate when I press the clutch pedal. Also, the rattling sound I hear from time to time when the engine was on (before it became stuck into gear) seems like it's coming from inside the gearbox housing, this was a sound I never heard before I took off the gearbox.

So, I think it's still worth the bruises and swearing to take off the gearbox and inspect the clutch plate.

What do you guys think?? Should I take the box off again and inspect or is there anything else I can do at this moment before attempting to remove the box??
 

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Hydraulics not working. Clutch installed backwards. Throughput mechanism assembled wrong.

IMO it is better to pull the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hydraulics not working. Clutch installed backwards. Throughput mechanism assembled wrong.

IMO it is better to pull the engine.
Again, the gearbox was removed to change the clutch fork only which can eliminate the possibilities of the clutch being installed backwards.... the clutch nor the pressure plate were touched or removed... I will remove the box again and do some inspection.
 

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Before taking anything apart, read post 4 again.
 

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Petal box rod under the hood.
Try adjusting first before you do anything else..
 

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Alright, should I remove the slave cylinder to confirm if the rod is still intact?

I am not too familiar with adjusting the clutch, is this done in the engine bay by the pedal box, or do you adjust the pedal throw from the driver foot well?
You need to read the workshop manual. Did you change the clutch without it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
How did the clutch pivot look? The little ball behind the clutch fork?
That looked good to me. It wasn't moving around or seemed to have any play whatsoever. I saw Mike from Britannica on YouTube talking about that saying he's found some that are worn and needs pressing back into the hole it came out of.
 
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