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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Today while driving on a mountain road, with the reduced gear on (LO) I heard such a strong metallic noise that I thought I had broken the Panhard bar or something.

Went out of the car and did not see anything broken, but when I looked at the rear wheel here is what I saw:



Symptoms: the gears, while passing normally were turning "in the void" - no strength at all was passed to the wheels. The manual break also was not responsive. I could only move the car with the differential blocking on and only the front wheels were driven by the motor.

I am now home and a bit scared of going to the mechanic as the bill might be a bit over my current budget...

Has anyone experienced such an issue?

It seems like to go to the mechanic I could drive the car with the differential blocking on: is this safe or am I risking some bigger damage?
 

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Looks like you just stripped out the drive flange. Not uncommon. Just slap on a new one.

Driving it may have damaged the shaft as well so you might need a new one.

Just unbolt the flange and pull it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Red90, let's say that both the drive flange and the shaft are bad as you wrote. Would that be sufficient to explain my symptoms?

(1. Gears not driving neither front axle nor rear axle 2. Car moving in 4x2 only with differential blocking on, power in the front axle only 3. Manual break unresponsive)

I thought it could only if some part could be blown off within the differential boxes as well...
 

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Yes, it explains your symptoms. Check the splines on the shaft and flange. If either are stripped or worn, replace. Easy to do in your driveway with hand tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, it explains your symptoms. Check the splines on the shaft and flange. If either are stripped or worn, replace. Easy to do in your driveway with hand tools.
OK thanks, sure, I'll check with my tools, but if anything is worn out I'll need to get the parts and here in Brazil it's not a piece of cake :embarress
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ah, one more quickie since I am a real newbie in car mechanics: can I unbolt the flange without taking the wheel off or not?
 

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And replace the other drive flange while you are at it. It will be close to death. Your era of Defender has a bad design in that area and they all wear out the splines.

They are very cheap. You can get heavier duty ones as well.
Land Rover, Range Rover Parts & Accessories - Discovery, Defender and Freelander

You will need the plastic cap as well and the circlip.
FTC5414 | Hub cap
549473 | Circlip

See if you can find a local used driveshaft if there are no local suppliers as shipping is pricey on those.
Left: Land Rover, Range Rover Parts & Accessories - Discovery, Defender and Freelander
Right: Land Rover, Range Rover Parts & Accessories - Discovery, Defender and Freelander

Internet search for parts in Sao Paulo
Loja Online de scavel no QueBarato!
Bearmach - Distribuidor de Peças e Acessórios Land Rover - Veículos - Marca - Manutenção - Carros - Reposição de Peças Land Rover - Atacado de
Peças Land Rover DEFENDER - TekCom (prices for all of the parts on that page)
Peças Land Rover - Suport Parts
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Red90, I really appreciate your help on this - your reply could not be more comprehensive!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK, I cleaned off the wheel and removed the 5 bolts of the flange, trying to take it off, except it does not move as it seems to have been glued on (maybe to seal the splines chamber with oil?).

Now, does anyone have a tip to remove the flange? (I tried to knock it a bit with a hammer but that did not help...)

So I just may go to the shop, especially after having seen that the half shaft seems to be pretty badly worn out:



------ Follow up post added September 20th, 2015 02:33 PM ------

Ah, and one more question: how safe is it to drive this Defender 400 km (250 miles) on the road to go to a specialized shop, knowing I'd have to leave the differential blocking on the whole way? Could this break or wear out any part prematurely?
 

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They use sealant for the gasket. I usually tap an ear with a hammer to get the flange to rotate until the sealant lets go and then it will come out. Or pry it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Alright, I could remove the flange, quite easily now, and I took pictures of the details (see below). The diagnostic is pretty clear: I'll need to change both the half shaft and the flange so I'll order them ASAP.

Now, I got curious and unbolted the other side flange as well. On that side, instead of being well coupled with the shaft, the flange could move an angle of about 10 degrees... So yeah, I'll have to buy more parts for that side as well. Not sure yet if it is only the flange or the half shaft as well - will check that tomorrow.







 

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Very easy to replace both axles and flanges. Places in the UK have them dirt cheap (25 quid per shaft per side and even less for flanges).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Nice work. I'd say while you are at it just take care of both sides with new parts.
Yep, I also had this after thought: in fact, I guess I don't really need to see the other side's half shaft head/splines: the fact that the shaft could move 10 degrees within the flange is sufficient to know that it already suffered enough and thus needs replacement!

------ Follow up post added September 20th, 2015 09:09 PM ------

Very easy to replace both axles and flanges. Places in the UK have them dirt cheap (25 quid per shaft per side and even less for flanges).
Yes, except I am in Brazil... that complicates quite a bit, but looking around well I shall be able to find these parts for a reasonable price I hope!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Found resellers + questions about mounting the new parts...

Alright, so here are the parts I am about to buy (just to confirm I won't need others!):

1 - Shaft-rear axle half
RH: 1 x FTC1724
LH: 1 x FTC1725

15 - Flange-driving shaft joint: 2 x RUC105200

17 - Circlip - axle shaft to hub driving member: 2 x 549473

18 - 2 x Cap-driveshaft coupling bolt locking with Land Rover logo: 2 x FTC5414

(see drawing with refs at the end of the post)

I found two Land Rover part resellers which have reasonable prices: Gran Part and Bearmach.

Now, thinking about mounting the new parts...

Should I use some grease and apply it on both sides of the half-shafts and within the flange? A basic automotive grease is fine?

Should I use sealant when fitting the new flanges on the wheels? What would this type of sealant be called?

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just to close this thread, the replacement of the parts went just perfectly fine and I could do it myself.

I really appreciated everyone's help on this forum: thanks!

Now, I am about to post a new thread as I have a new issue with my Defender unfortunately...
 
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