[Davis]

Truth. I was disappointed to not be able to use my OEM rubber. I originally tossed the terra firma bushings and quickly realized the difference in size and had to trash-panda them back out... :-(. I was hoping there were multiple sizes of OEM, such as the wide/narrow control arms, but alas...

 

[m.michaels]

so how on earth do you fit the poly bushes into the chassis bracket? without destroying the polybush which is impossibly wide?

 

[Mirra]

There are 2 different versions of poly bushings for that. They both suck, but 1 is better.

 

[m.michaels]

Well Roversnorth only has one . . . source and part number?

 

[Red90]

Check castor. If you don't have enough, it becomes unstable. Make sure toe is adjusted properly.

How much free play in the steering?

 

[el_guru]

Toe OUT..

1.19mm to 2.28mm
3/64” to 3/32”

 

[flyfish]

I’ve had the orange Polybush on my adjustable panhard for probably 7 or 8 years. And that’s with a lot of hard wheeling. No fitting or other issues.

 

[m.michaels]

So what am I looking for on castor? I presume the only way to adjust that would be new radius arms, or some funky custom swivel ball? I thought I had a two inch lift, but let me confirm. Orange? Mine are a terrible fluorescent yellow. They definitely don’t fit.

 

[flyfish]

If the lift is the same as it was before the wobble started, you probably don’t need to mess with it. i would just start with new PH bushes.

My orange are the “Polybush” brand. I put the complete kit on my truck so ev is Polybush.

 

[Red90]

I would say a couple of degrees. When you leave a corner, you should be able to let go of the steering wheel and it will straighten out on its own.

Caster correction arms, caster correction bushings or caster correction swivel ball. Balls are the best option. Or less lift.

 

[Davis]

Personally I prefer Caster corrected arms. Those rarely are damaged, are not consumables such as the balls, and achieve the same result. Finding a correct caster ball for a trail repair/timely fix would be difficult.

 

[m.michaels]

If the lift is the same as it was before the wobble started, you probably don’t need to mess with it. i would just start with new PH bushes.

My orange are the “Polybush” brand. I put the complete kit on my truck so ev is Polybush.

I’ve got superpro blue everywhere, but the stupid yellow ones on the pan hard rod. As soon as I get that fixed I’ll report back.

Thanks all, I feel less insane. Although, I still carry the shame of my ass clown linex . . .

 

[Mirra]

Haven’t used the polybush brand, but here is that info.

 

[dporter110]

Toe OUT..

1.19mm to 2.28mm
3/64” to 3/32”

Spec for MY97 is zero to 2mm out. I always try for zero.

 

[m.michaels]

Check castor. If you don't have enough, it becomes unstable. Make sure toe is adjusted properly.

How much free play in the steering?

Very little play in the steering, toe getting situated tonight

 

[flyfish]

I’ve got superpro blue everywhere, but the stupid yellow ones on the pan hard rod.

I think typically yellow is the soft.

With Polybush, blue is soft, orange is medium and red is firm.

Superpro does offer the blue. Not sure on color rates.

 

[erover82]

SuperPro is the way to go. Best quality and not too hard. Not surprised only the yellow bushings are giving you trouble.

 

[m.michaels]

Well parts arrive Friday!

 

[Overlander]

Firestone offers a lifetime alignment package for about $200. I got that so I can get a 4 wheel alignment every year

 

[Hair Helmet]

I have 5000 miles on a galv frame swap and all bushings replaced. DW turned out to be all of the radius arm nuts had come loose, tightening those made it stable at 80mph. I'm going through and re-torqueing everything else we missed just to be safe.