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Discussion Starter #1
Today I noticed a loss of power and a dead Boost Gauge...opened the hood and found the house leading to the waste gate actuator and gauge melted off (or split off)..I put a fresh hose on and zip tied at the barbs...however I now have no more then 2 PSI (used to get 10), no power, no turbo whistle, and a VERY hot exhaust side of the turbo....NO smoke at all...however I also drove slowly back to the house 4 miles....

It seems like the turbo will need a rebuild bit how can I be sure....? I thought when turbos go they usually blow oil through the system...?

Should I bother rebuilding or buy a new one?

Adam...

BTW to make maters worse is I had the truck parked with the windows half down and a Fkn goose flew over and bombed the roof AND through the window on the passenger seat...lucky it the old one that's being changed but still!...wish I had my 12 gauge near by!
 

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Take the hose off the compressor side and and spin the compressor by hand. Might be seized. at any rate if you spin the shaft you will either notice some crazy side to side play, no play, hear a metal cutting/ scraping or not able to spin the shaft... or it will spin freely and you have something else thats causing your problem (loose IC hoses, waste gate wide open).

Where is your boost sending unit? If turbo spins freely I would work back towards the compressor and check all connections. then check all your vacuum lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Oscar...will wait until it cools down and do so...

Right off the Turbo it T's to a manual boost and then off to the sending unit and the Diesel block...Has been working real well for months at a solid 10psi...84K miles on it...
 

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Should I bother rebuilding or buy a new one!
Unless you are adept at precision measurements don't bother building, once a turbo fails bearing housings go out of tolerances.
Save your self lots of hassle, money and time. Replace with new unit. Also 19j fuel injection pumps tend to fail at the anaerobic line ( this the one which enriches mixture as boost demand it.)
Thus failure manifest it self as fuel in said line, there shall never be fuel in this line as it may cause a Run away engine.
Fuel in this line causes bearing wash which blows even a brand new turbo.
If you have this issue have the pump overhauled or replace with new unit....parts and labor may set you back from 1500 to 4000 bucks based on labor rates on your area and if parts are in the us or must be imported from other shore side...best of luck.
BTW if you end up needing pump may as well do t belt and water pump, they must be removed before injection pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I wouldn't rebuild it myself, but there is a great Turbo re builder in North Jersey that will essentially blueprint it back to new as long as the main casing is still intact...$389

https://www.tristateturbo.com/rebuild_service_page.html

Standard Turbo Rebuild Cost = $389.00, entry level price covers automotive turbochargers only.


Complete tear-down and inspection - turbos we receive are identified, marked, and dis-assembled to component level. Each part is thouroghly inspected for wear and/or damage, and any cause of failure is identified so that it can be corrected prior to re-installation.
Cleaning and Media blasting - Turbine and compressor housings, bearing housing, and turbine wheel are stripped and refinished. If your housings are specially coated, we clean them with solvents to avoid damage to the coating. The bearing housing is refinished, flushed with solvent and precision honed before being cleaned, and the turbine shaft is polished to a mirror finish.
Component Blueprinting - Journal bearing bores are honed and sized to ensure proper for oil clearance. All parts and components are checked and verified against manufacturers specifications to ensure they are within limits.
Component Assembly - Turbo is reassembled with new journal and thrust bearings, o-rings, piston rings, fasteners, thrust collars, and seal plates.
High Speed Balancing - All rotating components, aka: "the stack" are double plane balanced as individual parts prior to assembly. After the Center Housing Rotating Assembly is assembled the CHRA is Vibration Sorted (VSR) to less than 1.5G at 100,000RPM. Each turbocharger is tested in a real-time as if it were on the engine, our simulator allows for zero error and 100% customer satisfaction.
 

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That price is most likely a "best case" price for rebuilding a turbo that is still working properly but is wearing out.

Most likely depending on the amount of damage to your turbo, the price will go way, way up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am going to try and diagnose tomorrow as suggested, and if it is the Turbo I will pull it and bring it up there on Monday to see what they say,,,if the price is too high I will just buy a new one..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I found the intake hose into the cyl head had worked its way loose and was hovering over the flange...the jubilee clamp had loosened up...so essentially it was a NA motor...I did check the inlet into the turbo and the impeller had zero play and spun very smoothly...I did notice some coolant on the base of the heater core (RHD) but I assume that may have been excessive heat from the turbo as the waste gate never opened since there was no pressure and with the engine off it must have expanded slightly in the core...took a few times to crank the motor, but finally caught...drove it down the road and got perfect boost...

In the dark it was too difficult to see the intake house loose....thanks for the suggestions!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Went back and tightened all of the intercooler lines, replaced the hoses from the turbo to the manual boost and the turbo and actuator with higher temp rubber vacuum lines vs the clear tubing...everything back to normal and getting 10lb of boost...running nice and strong....slow but strong...
 
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