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Discussion Starter #1
:icon_peace: discovered a sizable oil leak from the oil pan. Have done them before on other vehicles so was up to the challenge on the defender. Wasn't quite as easy of a job, but got er done. Let it the RTV set 24 hours before adding oil, then added oil, started it up and leaked from the rear of the motor. Got "the right stuff", cleaned and degreased and repeated the procedure.

Again, leaking from the rear of the engine. :facepalm:

Throw myself on the mercy of the court, don't claim to be an expert in all things mechanical, car related or not. Just need some expert help here, looked to be a thin gasket that runs vertical up the back of the engine. (2.5TD 19J) also looks like there might be a slight gap on one side, but can't get or see any bolts on that side (this would be the clutch housing yes? My 110 is a RHD, so this puts it on the passenger side of the truck (normal driver side).

Kinda shotty pics, last one is from the first go around. First 2 are from last nights failed attempt.

thanks in advance for any assistance!
 

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It's engineered in for rust prevention.
 

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Not sure exactly what you are seeing, but there is a gasket between the block and the clutch housing and it certainly can and does leak from there.
 

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Sorry, I was wrong. These may use an o-ring or just sealant to seal that spot, not that it helps to know...
 

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I agree. You really should not get a "sizeable" leak from the crank as it is above the oil level. Oil level is correct? Crankcase breather is working?

If you do end up pulling the engine, you are going to want to seriously consider doing all clutch and throwout parts as well unless they have a known age. I'm not normally one to suggest shipfitter's disease, but it sucks when the throwout fork punches through a week after you pull the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
sorry for the confusion, pulled the pan, cleaned all of the RTV off, degreased and reapplied "The right stuff" last night.

believe the leak is coming from the "O"ring seal, have a slight gap between the rear of the engine and the flywheel housing.

from the manual that Red90 provided it shows in "Later engines" . . . in place of the "O" ring seal a bead of Hylogrip 2000 (RTV) sealant must be applied to the rear face of the flywheel housing (5.5mm wide x 0.25mm thick) see illustrations.

should be a fun weekend.

Red90, do you happen to have a link to the rest of the manual?
 

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I was going to say, you have a lot of good guys with a lot of knowledge and talent in your area.
 

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oh, you need a visit from the PeDroMobile™

Thought you were in DC


Skinny Pete, I'm in Annandale, right off 236 by Northern Virginia Community College.

cell is 703-599-4322
 

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oh he has met the 'Dro...
 

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bottom line, if you can slide the thinnest feeler gauge in between the block and the flywheel housing, you have a problem and need to pull the engine or the trans. they should be in contact with each other.

otherwise, you need to decide how bad the leak is and live with it, or pull the engine and do a full clutch and rear main seal job.
 
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