[RickM]

Quick Question. So we were planning on doing a bottom end and top end job on this 200. That said, I am not seeing any oil leaking out or anything like that. A buddy recommended I think through that as it might actually be more troublesome to do so if the motor is running good and not loosing fluids. Anyone have any feedback on that? My mileage has to be high. Maybe 150K

 

[evilfij]

If it is running well I have no idea why you would ever rebuild it.

 

[Uncle Douglas]

150k is low mileage for a tdi engine. Given its 26 plus years old thats very low.
The cost to "go through" the engine can be quite expensive.
I'd change the belt, seals, water pump, and run it.

 

[RickM]

Uncle Douglass. Great advice. I think that is the route we will go.

RickM

 

[RickM]

All. I have run into a bit of a challenge we could use some help with. We are pulling the Sill door support on the underside of the body. Our B Pillars are ok. One needs minor repair I hope, the other is clean. Our C Pilar lower half is shot. Just got the parts in to repair it, but I have two questions. All the metal was ordered and delivered from YRM.

So Questions.
1. The YRM door sill does not have the door jam rubber holder part. That is fine by me, but is there a better way to add the rubber now to the door? I think the newer trucks came that way anyway.
2. When we assemble/weld all of this back together I am worried about the accuracy of getting it right at the B-pillar and roof line. I am planning on mocking it up from the roof down essentially. Anyone have any advice on this? Having said that, it looks like you can order the Sill/B-C pillar assembly pre-assembled. so maybe we need to simply weld it up and install.....

Anyway, any suggestions or help will be deeply appreciated.

RickM

 

[o2batsea]

The rubber channel thing is super easy to make. Alternately you could simply glue it using weatherstripping adhesive (neat and tidily) Or use screws or use plastic rivets or....
Do you have any of the old T post? Just measure off that. The pillar is 90 degrees to the sill piece, so you can put a square on it to get it in place.

 

[RickM]

Bill... Leave it to you to help me find the forest for the trees. Sometime I get caught thinking to hard. All great and easy ideas. I like the idea of the weatherstripping on the door itself. Cleans up the side and helps with moisture drainage.

 

[sgo70]

I actually just did my c pillars today. Take a good look around and take measurements everywhere you can before you cut the old ones off and trace them on the body panels with a sharpie. I missed doing all that and just measured from the b pillar but of course the new ones are slightly different, funny thing is the originals were 17 1/4" and 17 1/2" back from the b pillar, but the new ones when bolted in and clamped down both came in at 17 1/2". Once the bolts are in and the bottom is pulled down to the sill it doesn't have much movement, I also put clamps on the slanted part of the tub but you gotta be careful not to cock it over. I don't even know if I'm making sense lol.

Also take a look at this video, b pillar is 34 3/4" (if I remember correctly) from the bulkhead and should be parallel. I think you got +-3" from what I've been dealing with lol.

Sean

 

[RickM]

It’s been a long time since much has been posted on our build. As of now we have done a time but it doesn’t feel like much. All the suspension bushings, swivel balls etc are done. The doors have been repaired and welded on. The rust issues have been dealt with. So we are trying to get it off to paint soon. I have to brag on my 15 yo son. He busted his but on this truck.

 

[Drago.the.D110]

Great work! It’s fun to follow this thread and see an update.

Cheers!

 

[RickM]

I posted something on this on a really old thread about HVAC but I figured I might ask you all here. So we live in TX and it is obviously hot. This will be a daily driver for my son. We are working on thinking through HVAC systems. I saw a build that was reasonable from Wolf Engineering on this forum about how to install some aftermarket parts into these trucks. It was cost effective and a smaller footprint. I am tempted to dig into that BUT, these are my concerns. I have a D90 with the NAS aircon in it. The thing is loud and drains on the engine big time. So with that in mind, has anyone been able to keep the factory dash, and install a Air con system that was not so loud and did not drain on the engine? Keep in mind ours is a 200 diesel. Thanks.

 

[RickM]

It ha been a bit since we have updated everyone but here goes. My son's truck is really taking shape. We have gotten it back from paint. Much of it is. coming back together. I have been working hard to get the doors back in shape. That said, we do have some door fitment issues. If you look at the front passenger door, it simply is not gapping close to correct. The back end of the door is just about to hit the B-pillar at the front gap has a pretty large opening in the upper portion. The upper roof seam is also not straight. Wide at the back and small at the front. We have been able to make adjustments on hingers on the other three but this one is just off. I did use the measurement guide for the b-pillar so I don't thing that is really it. Any feedback would be appreciated.

 

[RickM]

This truck has sat stagnant for a bit but we are back making progress. I will get pictures up soon. Have run into some issues though that I would welcome any feedback on. We are installing a stereo and electric windows. I also noticed this truck is not driving great.

For the road wander. The suspension is all new. All new bushings etc. The swivel balls were rebuilt. The steering box is old and may be low on fluid. I noticed today though that there is a huge amount of play in the steering wheel. I did just replace a leaking box with a not quite as severely leaking box. I need to play with this some but I am hoping low ps fluid might allow for some wander.

Regarding the windows. Need a little help on this. My kit came with only instructions for the front set. I ordered the traditional electric conversion kit from Rimmer. The wiring for the front and the rear got jumbled up. I think I can figure the fronts but anyone have a set of instructions for the rear window electric kits that do not use the factory hand crank?

Oh, and I would send pics but my truck is at an upholstery shop getting the front headliner sorted.

 

[rdavisinva]

Wondering can be traced to many causes,
If you wiggle the steering wheel with the key on to prevent steering shaft lock, you'll be able to feel the position where the wheel moves freely without any resistance.
The free movement is your steering play.
Next trace the free play from the first steering shaft U-joint down through the steering box and on out through all the rods out to the wheels.
Somewhere along the way you'll see the play and fix the culprit one at a time until the play is gone.

 

[RickM]

Thanks Rdavisinva. We are digging in on exactly what you said.

So now onto my latest challenge. The windows. Regarding the rear windows. I sorted the harness but when I went to install the rear windows I got a nice surprise and blew the relay. I think. There was a nice spark. Anyway. I noticed the and switch wires were intended to go into the relay controls. That said there are about 4 different places the positive, negative, and this blue wire could go. I am stumped and a little frustrated This is the kit I ordered.
This is the relay block that holds these wires

These are the wires that need a home.

 

[RickM]

Following up. A gent on RN sent me an install for those rear windows. All is good now. On that front.