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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a D90 NAS about a month and half ago and after sitting in my garage for a week, the engine won't click over. The engine starts to turn but won't do the final click to turn over and start up. Any suggestions on what it would be? The battery is hooked up to a charger in my garage so the battery was charged.

Thank you.

Shawn
 

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What do you mean by final click? Does the battery die while trying to start or does the engine continue to turn over? Have you tested the battery to confirm that it is good? Just because it's on a charger doesn't mean it's good.
If the engine continues to turn over check that you are getting fuel and plugs are getting fire.
 

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what year defender?..

if it has a distributor, go to the autoparts store and buy a new rotor button and replace yours (it sin the distributor and should pull off without any real force. If it takes force to pull off you you need to use a trim tool or something to hold the shaft of the distributor down, otherwise it's easy to break the circlip inside the distributor. its easy though. if that starts the truck, call and order 2 Red rotor buttons from Rovers north (they are better and don't suffer from the same failures as the rest of them), and always keep a spare in the truck.

Also make sure the white wire is hooked up to the + side of the coil - and your relays are for the ECU and Fuel pump are working and click when you turn the truck on.
 

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Sounds like the battery. regardless of on the charger,
. If it isn’t really turning over like normal, then it still sounds like the battery. I’d try jumping it and having the battery checked before replacing any parts...
 

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Eliminate the simple stuff first...If it jumps starts easily it's most likely the battery...your local parts store or garage should be able to test it w/o removing it from the truck. You should be seeing at least 13.1 to 13.4 volts, anything less means the battery is on it's way out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just tried jump starting and it didn’t work. It seems that it’s not getting the spark. The spark plugs were replaced before I purchased it. Any idea as to what I should try next? How would I know if the fuel pump is working? I have a video but can’t figure out how to post it.
 

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Crank-but-no-start can be in the spark wires/leads. If that is the issue, you can possibly get your fix with a generous dab of dielectric grease in each of the plug-end connectors on your existing wires. If you're not sure that the spark wires have been replaced in the last year or so, you might consider replacing them anyway, especially if you're in a damp climate. It's almost never the spark plugs...
 

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Before you move on to fuel first rule out a non-spark issue, replace the rotor button (see post #3 above). As Cowboy mentioned, take a good look at the wires.
 

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Just tried jump starting and it didn’t work. It seems that it’s not getting the spark. The spark plugs were replaced before I purchased it. Any idea as to what I should try next? How would I know if the fuel pump is working? I have a video but can’t figure out how to post it.
For the fuel pump operation, you should hear a 3-4 second hum near the rear of the truck when the key is switched from the off to on position each time. The pump should also run when cranking or running the truck, but it is impossible to hear the pump at that point.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Don't replace anything until you know what to replace. Deduce, not throw parts.

First check if you are having a spark. Take out a plug, put the wire on it, ground it (such as against the block), have someone turn it over and see if there is a spark. It could be the rotor, but there are a lot of ways to check what parts are wrong before spending $$....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
For the fuel pump operation, you should hear a 3-4 second hum near the rear of the truck when the key is switched from the off to on position each time. The pump should also run when cranking or running the truck, but it is impossible to hear the pump at that point.

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I hear the hum
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Don't replace anything until you know what to replace. Deduce, not throw parts.

First check if you are having a spark. Take out a plug, put the wire on it, ground it (such as against the block), have someone turn it over and see if there is a spark. It could be the rotor, but there are a lot of ways to check what parts are wrong before spending $$....
Thank you! When I get back to the house. I’ll try the spark plugs. As for the switch, can you confirm if this is what you’re speaking about in picture below. I’m based in Fairfield, CT and unfortunately don’t know much about cars.
 

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Thank you! When I get back to the house. I’ll try the spark plugs. As for the switch, can you confirm if this is what you’re speaking about in picture below. I’m based in Fairfield, CT and unfortunately don’t know much about cars.
If you are referencing the plug on the distributor with the connection similar to the injectors, that is the link lead between the ignition control module and the engine harness.

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Discussion Starter #16
I replaced the plugs, still didn’t start. My auto parts store didn’t have the rotor bottoms in stock so I’ll order the rod rotor buttons suggested from Rovers North. I’ve had the truck for about a month and half and it’s started up with no troubles always on the first try about 30 times. A check engine light went on so I brought it to classic 4x4 in my hometown to have the entire truck inspected. They said it needed an 02 sensor replaced. Said I could drive it until I got it fixed. I brought it back and then went to start it up a week later and now it won’t start.
 
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