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Don't assume it's bad. Test it first. It could just be corrosion on the connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Don't assume it's bad. Test it first. It could just be corrosion on the connectors.
Not to worry, I will sort out the issue before dropping ~ $200 on a nonreturnable part. Sort of fast tracking sourcing the part to move on it should it come to this route.
 

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They usually get flat spots. So you have to test throughout the whole range. Common failure item around 100k plus.
 

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I'm also having a recurring TPS fault. I can check for clean connectors but couldn't find a test procedure for the TPS in the manual. Can you tell me how to test it? Is it simply a continuity test across the full range of motion or what?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm also having a recurring TPS fault. I can check for clean connectors but couldn't find a test procedure for the TPS in the manual. Can you tell me how to test it? Is it simply a continuity test across the full range of motion or what?
The attached is 93' RRC Multiport Fuel Injection Electrical Troubleshooting Manual. This should be of help. Look at Test G. I haven't looked at my Defender work shop manual yet. Will scan the applicable pages and post here in the next few days. Thinking the TPS test will be the same.
 

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Premium Member
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I'm also having a recurring TPS fault. I can check for clean connectors but couldn't find a test procedure for the TPS in the manual. Can you tell me how to test it? Is it simply a continuity test across the full range of motion or what?
Connect you multi meter ( set to 20v DC ) between the ground ( battery -ve ) and pin 20 on the back of the ecu ( you'll need to remove the cover ).

you should see it start around 0.3 v and max around 5v. The progression should be smooth over the full travel of the throttle pedal. If you see any spikes or out of sequence values it would indicate a 'worn out spot' and cause for replacement.

An old fashioned analog meter is best for this test or something like a fluke that has a digital bar graph 'needle'
 
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