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Discussion Starter #1
Good afternoon.


I tried a search and could not find my issue, but happy for someone to link a thread and I wont waste anyones time. I put about 400 miles on the defender today to pick something up, and when I got halfway there, I had to get off the highway and noticed that there was more travel down to engage the clutch, obviously it caught faster coming up too. I didn't think too much of it, but when I was coming home and got off the interstate, the clutch pedal went to the floor and just engaged right at the last bit of travel. When I stopped, it had a very hard time going into any gear, and only first when I was completely stopped. I could not get it to engage to downshift at all, had to come to a complete stop.


Also, when I was in third and fifth gear, possibly in the others but I didn't hear it, the drivetrain sounded like I was driving very fast over those wooden bridges, very rhythmic but there was no feel to it, just a sound.


Any help would be appreciated. Letting it sit for a couple hours right now and see if it does it when cold or just hot.


Thanks in advance. It is an lt77.


David
 

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My first guess is the slave cylinder, the little master cylinder next to the brake master.
 

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Have you checked the fluid level?
 

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Same trans...same issue...slave cyl went...not too bad of a repair...
 

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Agree.

1. Check the fluid level in the MC.
2. Replace both the MC and the SC at the same time, as if one blows, the other often follows.
3. Simple rule: fluid dripping at you clutch pedal = MC vs low level in MC and fluid dipping from underneath at SC.
4. Watch the YouTube videos for either.
5. Reverse bleed from the SC to the MC reservoir with a 50cc syringe connected to the SC bleed valve via a small stretch of rubber tubing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone for the answers, I watched a ton of youtube videos, does not seem to be a problem changing them both out. There was fluid at the pedal and the reservoir was empty. So there is my problem.


Last question, I probably ran about 75 miles or so with that empty/almost empty. What will that do to the more expensive parts? should I figure im going to change something much larger pretty soon because I messed it up driving it? I know you guys are not psychic or anything, just don't know what happens if I drive empty.


Ordering the parts now.
 

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It won't hurt anything else. Clean up the fluid as it eats paint.

I would suggest changing both the master and slave along with the flex line. One tends to die close to the other. Make sure you get OEM units that are branded. The mystery no name ones fail quickly.
 

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It won't hurt anything else. Clean up the fluid as it eats paint.

I would suggest changing both the master and slave along with the flex line. One tends to die close to the other. Make sure you get OEM units that are branded. The mystery no name ones fail quickly.


and lube the tip of the slave with moly grease as it acts as a pivot point
 

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Discussion Starter #10
so, fluid is all topped up, system bled, and the clutch still engages right at the floor. I read something about the fork item in the transfer case cracking and the ball joint that it pivots on coming through. If that were to happen, would that put the clutch engaging much farther down near the floor or would it not engage at all?
 

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To clarify, you replaced the MC and SC? Topping off and bleeding will not solve the problem if the MC has lost the seal, as you described the leak at the pedal.

Again, start with both MC and SC. Then, if problems persist, explore further.
 

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They can be hard to bleed, which may also be the problem. As above, you do need to change the master at least.

A punched through fork will give you a rock hard pedal with no clutch release.
 

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I would watch the rubber flex line when the clutch is depressed, I've had those go bad and bulge/leak under pressure.
 

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Same here.
Pedal went down to the ground and still sits there.
No clutch releasing.

The rod of the SC was driven out. And leaking.



Forkend was touchable at the end of the tunnel.



After removing the boxes the fork seamed to be ok.
Left hand the home brewed heavy duty fork, right hand an original but used one.











In my opinion the MC failed because the SC lost fluid. This caused a damage to the bottom valve.

I always change both of the two and the hose connecting the breake pipe with the SC.
 

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The fork is known to break. If you are certain you bleed the system properly, verify the adjustment on your mc. Might have loosen up! If not, the fork can have go bang. Mine was acting like, no pedal, some pedal... If you take the tranny out, put a new fork. If you're looking for a drop and forget, don't buy the paddock or similar hd fork.. Give Micheal Wesson a ring and he will send you the best quality hd fork you can buy and it's not more expensive then other brand but the quality is flawless.

britrest.com http://britrest.com/index_files/Page966.htm
 

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Well, instead of putting money in advertisement and giving the invoice to his client, Micheal believe in mouth to ear from his clients I guess..
 
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