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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've got an LT95 in my early 110, sadly this means that every moulded mat system, carpet set, etc. isn't a direct fit. I've made due with an R380 moulded mat system that doesn't fit well, but i'm tired of how janky it is - around the shifter, around the transfer case lever, around the diff lock, etc.

I'm leaning towards just having a marine outfitter install a custom marine carpet setup to finish off the front area. My only worry is around a permanent (semi-permanent?) installation of carpet that will absorb moisture. I guess it could be done with low profile but heavy duty velcro, or some lift-the-dot style fasteners, but not sure how well that achieve a "finished" look.

So anyone have any bright ideas out there for us non-R380 or LT77 folks?

P.S. this truck isn't a gnarly off-roader or anything. it's mostly road driven and on the beach, but it's a soft top so it's very much open to atmosphere. That said, it's stored indoors for 44 weeks a year or so.
 

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Has anyone checked to see if the R380 tunnel and floors used on the 300TDI R380 vehicles will fit over the LT95?
If it will and you want a molded mat, you could swap the floors and tunnel over and then be able to buy the molded mats. Otherwise I don't know of anything that fits.
Am no fan of the molded mats or carpet because they hold moisture that causes rust and corrosion, but if you have to have it, then this may be the only way to buy off the shelf.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Has anyone checked to see if the R380 tunnel and floors used on the 300TDI R380 vehicles will fit over the LT95?
If it will and you want a molded mat, you could swap the floors and tunnel over and then be able to buy the molded mats. Otherwise I don't know of anything that fits.
Am no fan of the molded mats or carpet because they hold moisture that causes rust and corrosion, but if you have to have it, then this may be the only way to buy off the shelf.
I've considered even doing the full conversion. I mean let's be honest, the LT95 is... agricultural feeling. Just can't decide if this is enough of a reason to finally make the big effort to drop in an R380, the new tunnel, modified seatbox, etc. It might be. I'm about to have a kid, so I was trying to avoid the bigger projects.

I've basically never had anyone else work on this truck, maybe it's time to get a quote for this project for the winter.
 

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An not convinced that the seat box needs to be changed.
You might get away with just the center tunnel and floors.
Think the part that connects to the bulkhead may be the same along with the bulkhead opening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
An not convinced that the seat box needs to be changed.
You might get away with just the center tunnel and floors.
Think the part that connects to the bulkhead may be the same along with the bulkhead opening.
I've been thinking about this since you posted. Not sure the best way to figure this out without just buying a tunnel and floors. any ideas? Could also buy with the intention of returning if it doesn't fit, but kind of a big thing to do that with. I never like to screw over RN's inventory and treat them like Zappos!
 

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I am slammed with projects right now, so an little help other than some advice here and there, but you might get someone to cut a cardboard or paper template for the 300TDI R380 seat box opening with a measurement of the distance from each side of the template to the outside seat box edge, then you'll know right away if the seat base opening will work.
If it doesn't, you'll know it's a no go and explore other solutions.

BTW changing out floors tunnel and seat box is a day or long afternoon job, not a winter project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
BTW changing out floors tunnel and seat box is a day or long afternoon job, not a winter project.
For sure, if this were my solution, i'd be VERY happy with it.

I'm getting quotes for custom interiors and such and it's just going to be so much money for custom carpet and such all because of the unique tunnel. When otherwise i'd have a wide selection of carpet sets and moulded mat systems.
 

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We use link mats on the floor only.
Pull the mat, hose out the interior, hose off the mat, put the mat back.
You're done.
No trapped water as it all evaporates away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What are link mats?

And to be clear, my primary goal here is just a polished looking interior vs bad fitting rubber bits and exposed chipping painted aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well Link mats may not be what you are looking for unless you paint first.
Here you go:

https://www.defendersource.com/threads/link-mat-poll.98825/#post-1919204441
Ah i see. Yeah, unfortunately I'm just trying to create a more finished interior. Right now I've got patina inside AND outside. I've decided as I (and the family) get older, I can only manage SO much rustic-ness. I've chosen to keep the exterior aging gracefully, so i just want the interior to feel a bit more like, you know, a car and a little less like an actual tractor :)
 
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