Can you identify this 4 bolt Defender Steering Box?

2151 Views 14 Replies 9 Participants Last post by o2batsea, 9 d ago

Feller

Discussion Starter · Apr 24, 2022

4

Just took this off a 1991 RHD Defender 110 with power steering to have a shop rebuild it (they never got around to it) and decided to buy a new/ remanufactured one. It has too much play and just started leaking.

It looks exactly like half the units I see photos of on Rimmer, Rovers North, eBay, etc. Are all these 4 bolt units the same when specified as right hand drive?
Is there really a difference between Adwest "lightweight" and "heavyweight"power steering units? Does the VIN "up to" number matter? My vin is 7HA472437. Somehow my combination of year, model, drive side, VIN never yields any steering box results in searches.

Can anyone identify what model steering box this is? ...

Any help would be mucho appreciated!

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SIIA109

· #2 · Apr 24, 2022

Lightweight power steering

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Feller

Discussion Starter · #3 · Apr 24, 2022

I guess my confusion is in regard to how universal this box is? The diagram above is my steering box, and it doesn't appear to be an uncommon steering box.

However on Rovers North website it's the same box for all RHD defenders from 1987-2016, (and it's $1500) Power Steering Box Assembly RHD -Includes Drop Arm PLH972 | Rovers North - Land Rover Parts and Accessories Since 1979
Easy but expensive and a lot of shipping if it's incorrect.

On Rimmer Bros the box looks identical, but they only show RHD Adwest 4 bolt steering boxes for Defenders to VIN 6A999999. My VIN is 7HA472437, which seems later than they even sell boxes for. Admittedly, I don't know why my vin has an H between the first number and the A followed by 6 digits. Does the VIN even matter anyway since Rovers North doesn't distinguish?

Bearmach also sells a box that looks identical to the mine and list that it fits nearly every Defender and most Discoverys and RR Classics. Relatively affordable but don't know if it will fit and a lot of shipping if incorrect.

Most of the 4 bolt eBay/ buyautoparts.com remanufactured boxes photos look exactly like mine but say they are for a LHD, so probably no go. FWIW, when I turn my input shaft the output shaft turns the opposite direction. This seems to be relevant for boxes sold on Ebay. The owner of GBR Utah highly recommended the steering box buyautoparts.com sells.

At this point I'm fairly certain all boxes that look just like mine and are listed for RHD are all exactly the same but want to know if this is really the case before I go through all the ordering/ returning/ VAT expenses/ shipping/ attempted installation etc. I've never had so much ambiguity getting the part right for this truck- not sure if I'm reading too much into it and they're all the same?

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6777

· #4 · Apr 25, 2022

Lots of rambling here not really sure what the question is.

That is a right hand drive lightweight adwest box, Don't let "lightweight" fool you. It's the most durable box that they made for these trucks. All of the late market boxes are based off this style.

If you want to get the best box possible get the rovers North right hand drive box.. It's the most updated version. Or by the seal kit and rebuild this yourself.

If you decide to do neither, I'll buy it from you as a core and rebuild it here myself.

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jagspeed

· #5 · Apr 25, 2022

I think you are reading the VIN wrong. The date code is the 10th digit, which in your case is "H". This denotes 1991 build date. The year codes started with letters before changing to numerals, so HA472437 was made many years before 6A999999. The box you referenced will fit your truck, as will any 4-bolt RHD box.

Feller said:
On Rimmer Bros the box looks identical, but they only show RHD Adwest 4 bolt steering boxes for Defenders to VIN 6A999999. My VIN is 7HA472437, which seems later than they even sell boxes for. Admittedly, I don't know why my vin has an H between the first number and the A followed by 6 digits. Does the VIN even matter anyway since Rovers North doesn't distinguish?

Reactions: 1

o2batsea

· #6 · Apr 25, 2022 (Edited)

The difference is that the input shaft (where the steering wheel shaft connects) has a clamp bolt relief that goes all the way around, and the one pictured has a flat spot. Also the later pitman arms have an index mark to let you know it is at mid point in the lock to lock. Guts the same tho.. When you buy the rebuild kit, you get parts for all Adwest boxes, so there are parts in the kit that don't get used on the 4-bolt type. These boxes don't really wear out. The seals go and they get out of adjustment. There are 4 adjustments that need to be done in the correct sequence. You can't just run down the top adjusting bolt and think it's OK. That won't take the slop out only make a tight spot in the center. When adjusted properly these are silky smooth and track like a freight train.
Second in line if you don't sell it to Professor Matt.
To be clear all 4 bolt steering boxes are functionally the same and interchange. The difference is in the input shaft.

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Feller

Discussion Starter · #7 · Apr 26, 2022

jagspeed said:
I think you are reading the VIN wrong. The date code is the 10th digit, which in your case is "H". This denotes 1991 build date. The year codes started with letters before changing to numerals, so HA472437 was made many years before 6A999999. The box you referenced will fit your truck, as will any 4-bolt RHD box.

Thank you, this clears up a lot of part-searching questions, including the box I was looking for.

Feller

Discussion Starter · #8 · Apr 26, 2022

o2batsea said:
The difference is that the input shaft (where the steering wheel shaft connects) has a clamp bolt relief that goes all the way around, and the one pictured has a flat spot. Also the later pitman arms have an index mark to let you know it is at mid point in the lock to lock. Guts the same tho.. When you buy the rebuild kit, you get parts for all Adwest boxes, so there are parts in the kit that don't get used on the 4-bolt type. These boxes don't really wear out. The seals go and they get out of adjustment. There are 4 adjustments that need to be done in the correct sequence. You can't just run down the top adjusting bolt and think it's OK. That won't take the slop out only make a tight spot in the center. When adjusted properly these are silky smooth and track like a freight train.
Second in line if you don't sell it to Professor Matt.
To be clear all 4 bolt steering boxes are functionally the same and interchange. The difference is in the input shaft.

Thank you. I will order a rebuild kit and put new seals in this one. With 65k miles it probably just needs seals and adjustment. I re-checked the play between the input and output shaft no play at mid point now. I found an excerpt of a tutorial called "Steering System Trouble Shooting" on landrover.net for a Disco. If you are familiar with any other, more helpful and in-depth tutorials on steering box adjustment I would be much appreciative.

o2batsea

· #9 · Apr 27, 2022 (Edited)

There's a guy on youtube that does an excruciating cringe worthy rebuild where he dumps hydraulic oil all over the bench among other gaffes. However he goes through the process in great detail. If you don't mind the fumbling it's an OK tutorial.

(

)

You don't need the pull resistance thingamajigs that he rigs up. You can get away with doing it by feel. resistance should be firm but not tight. If you decide to get into measuring the pull resistance, there are cheap load cells on Amazon for about twenty bucks. I got one for doing rebuilds on these but found that I could judge it pretty well just by feel.
Get some 600 and 1200 wet sand paper so you can clean up the area on the shafts where the seals run. Use oil on the paper not water. The most tricky part is reassembling the vertical shaft into the housing. It has to be aligned a certain way or else it won't got for any amount of swearing.
Oh and don't hammer on the top like he does. Just run the adjusting screw in and the top will come off. Also DO NOT disassemble the input shaft cartridge unless you ABSOLUTELY KNOW it is necessary. This is the heart of the hydraulic system and you shouldn't need to do anything but clean up the shaft seal area with the fine paper. Don't attempt to remove the teflon o rings.
The rebuild procedure is in the shop manual, which you can find on line if you don't have one.

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Feller

Discussion Starter · #10 · Apr 27, 2022

o2batsea said:
There's a guy on youtube that does an excruciating cringe worthy rebuild where he dumps hydraulic oil all over the bench among other gaffes. However he goes through the process in great detail. If you don't mind the fumbling it's an OK tutorial.

(

)

You don't need the pull resistance thingamajigs that he rigs up. You can get away with doing it by feel. resistance should be firm but not tight. If you decide to get into measuring the pull resistance, there are cheap load cells on Amazon for about twenty bucks. I got one for doing rebuilds on these but found that I could judge it pretty well just by feel.
Get some 600 and 1200 wet sand paper so you can clean up the area on the shafts where the seals run. Use oil on the paper not water. The most tricky part is reassembling the vertical shaft into the housing. It has to be aligned a certain way or else it won't got for any amount of swearing.
Oh and don't hammer on the top like he does. Just run the adjusting screw in and the top will come off. Also DO NOT disassemble the input shaft cartridge unless you ABSOLUTELY KNOW it is necessary. This is the heart of the hydraulic system and you shouldn't need to do anything but clean up the shaft seal area with the fine paper. Don't attempt to remove the teflon o rings.
The rebuild procedure is in the shop manual, which you can find on line if you don't have one.

Many thanks, this is great information. I'll order the seal kit today and follow the process outlined in the manual in conjunction with the online tutorial.
Is there a particular rebuild kit you have found to be best in your experience rebuilding these?

ganni

· #11 · 19 d ago

can any one let me know the Part number of shaft number 29 please on the drawing above.

Thanks John

KGH

· #12 · 19 d ago

Steering Box New RHD (ADWEST) QAF500110 QAF000140 STC2846 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

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QAF500110 | STEERING BOX ASSEMBLY - RIGHT HAND DRIVE DEFENDER FROM VIN TO 2006 | Land Rover | Discovery 1 - 1989 to 1999 | Britcar (Global) Ltd

Looking for QAF500110 STEERING BOX ASSEMBLY - RIGHT HAND DRIVE DEFENDER FROM VIN TO 2006? Britcar can help you. View all details of this Discovery 1 - 1989 to 1999 part here

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Mirra

· #13 · 17 d ago

“There are 4 adjustments that need to be done in the correct sequence. You can't just run down the top adjusting bolt and think it's OK. That won't take the slop out only make a tight spot in the center. When adjusted properly these are silky smooth and track like a freight train.”

can you elaborate on these adjustments? Thanks

Reactions: 1

uc4me

· #14 · 10 d ago (Edited)

This would be great to know. I'm getting pretty tired of my steering wheel tracking 11 to 1 o'clock on the road.

Looking fwd to see how the rebuild kit works out for the OP.

o2batsea

· #15 · 9 d ago

Mirra said:
“There are 4 adjustments that need to be done in the correct sequence. You can't just run down the top adjusting bolt and think it's OK. That won't take the slop out only make a tight spot in the center. When adjusted properly these are silky smooth and track like a freight train.”

can you elaborate on these adjustments? Thanks

They're outlined in the shop manual. You can access the manual on line in several locations. You need to have the box on your workbench as it is not possible to do with the box on the truck.

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