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bulkhead repair

4770 Views 24 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Stealthsr71
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I am working on repairing the top corners on my bulkhead. I have the outer skin to replace where the hole that was there. but while taking off the top corner I found that the rust has gone all the way thru to the inside lip of the dashboard corner. is there a replacement part for this too? I have looked but I do not see these as option in any parts list for bulkhead repair parts. Below are pictures of the corner part that I am talking about. any help would be appreciated.
thanks
Scott

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A lot of guys simply make or have it made. Remove the welds, and it is simple angle with a notch cut. Any commercial HVAC duct shop can fab those up for you.

Are you going to galvy it since you are most of the way to pulling it?
Thanks that was the other option I was thinking I would have to do. More grinding to do then.
I have the other side to do as well. I had not thought about getting it all galvanized. Is it worth doing? This is my first real big project truck.
I have it torn down and still need to fit the new footwells.
Thanks
You can get the entire side of the bulkhead top to bottom and the inner feet. It's is available as a template part. Replacing this as one part is suggested as it keep the door fasteners in the stockish location
Thanks that was the other option I was thinking I would have to do. More grinding to do then.
I have the other side to do as well. I had not thought about getting it all galvanized. Is it worth doing? This is my first real big project truck.
I have it torn down and still need to fit the new footwells.
Thanks
Galvanizing is worth doing. Makes these disposable trucks immortal. There is a right way to have it done and not every galvy shop knows. The bulkhead needs to hang above the galvy tank for a bit to get it warmed up to temperature before the dip to keep it from warping. It isn't terribly expensive. When you get your bulkhead repaired, if you are happy with it, dip it. My $0.02.
Agreed, mine was I about this shape or worse. Reapaired and painted. Rusted out again in about 6 years due to nj/NY salt use Ilona the roads. Replaced with a galvinized bulkhead moved to California... Problem solved!
thanks for the update. I will look and see about buying the whole section complete. any suggestion on where? I checked YRM, Britcar and rovers North did not see any assemblies. I have the vent, the door pillar and footwell all as separate parts right now. it would be nice to have as one section for the door alignment.
thanks.

------ Follow up post added January 28th, 2018 11:52 AM ------

I will look into the galvanizing as I am sure the other side is just as bad. there has to be a place around here to do it.

Option to moving to Calf. is not on the table right now......
Look into a company in the UK called YRM. They make all kinds of replacement pieces for Land Rovers. Their prices are reasonable and with exchange rate shipping is not bad. We order pieces from them a lot. Give them a look.
I had not thought about getting it all galvanized. Is it worth doing?
Galvanize everything.
thanks for the input and help. I will start to look into galvanizing options with local vendors.
I have the exact rust area on the right side except it is where the inner and outer come together where the rubber door strip mounts onto the flange...and have looked with zero luck in anyone having a weld in piece...will do what others suggest and make a piece from scratch as it's a fairly non complex area hidden by the door rubber...
I have the exact rust area on the right side except it is where the inner and outer come together where the rubber door strip mounts onto the flange...and have looked with zero luck in anyone having a weld in piece...will do what others suggest and make a piece from scratch as it's a fairly non complex area hidden by the door rubber...
Well that's two separate pieces. That's the outer bulkhead pillar and the inner footwell. If you replace both then you can replace that.

Or

Cut it back flush to both panels with a disc and Weld a small plate at 90 degrees to replace that pinch Weld and give you something to put the door seal on
YRM does not provide the piece you need. To my knowledge, no one does.
will I need the bulkhead removal weldment that I saw on Rovers North's website to pull the bulkhead? not sure since this will be my first try at it.
I have a pair of the Bulkhead Repair Panels: https://yrmit.co.uk/product/bulkhead-repair-panels-per-pair-land-rover-defender-series-23/ Let me know if you can use them and I'll make you a deal. I did the pillars last year--it is rather tricky to get everything just right, but take your time and they will weld in pretty well. I did the drivers floor at the same time...
Hi Davis
thanks those look like the panels I have already. from what I have gotten replies back on I need to fab up the inside sections that I need to attached those to. thanks for the advise I will take my time and do a good fit up before I start welding on them. I have to replace both footwells too, so I have a lot of fitting to do. I am doing the easy side first before I pull the driver side.
Look at Ashtree bulkheads out of UK. May be a quick win for you.

You will need a sawzall! Lol. If I were to do my own, I would watch every youtube vid, many just to see what not to do. In my opinion, the good repairs use a jig to ensure it all comes out straight. Then you need to put it back straight, have some ratchet straps handy. No matter what you will need to get a screw and fastener kit, new seals for top of bulkhead and top of windscreen frame, new door fasteners...

Once you do this, that part of truck will have a long life ahead of it.
I make most of my repair panels. Takes mins with a 4.5 cutting wheel, sheet of steel,and a die grinder.
Not to derail this thread... but my bulkhead is possibly the worst one in the history of Defenders. My doors are a couple hard closes away from falling right off. Is it really worth repairing these when a new one can be had for $2k that you know is good? Just seems like there's a lot of holes and bends and what not in the factory bulkhead that could easily get messed up when repairing it.
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