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1988 Defender 110 3.5 V8 Twin SU carb “ROW” South Africa
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
She’s almost ready for blasting and paint. Left front swivel is off. Right front to go.
sand blast next week followed by epoxy primer.

Neat thing about the OKD out of South Africa was the chassis were galvanized.
My Persephone’s out of body experience is almost over. Her galvanized frame is doing what it’s supposed to and the covering is sacrificed and now very thin.

some pics. More to follow.

cheers.






 

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When you say "blasting" you mean like a soda blast - ie something that is not to abrasive? I understand the galvanizing process, I also understand that bare metal can be exposed once you wear off that thin layer of zinc so you really only need to clean it and degrease it so you can put the etching primer on it and then paint it - correct?
 

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1988 Defender 110 3.5 V8 Twin SU carb “ROW” South Africa
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When you say "blasting" you mean like a soda blast - ie something that is not to abrasive? I understand the galvanizing process, I also understand that bare metal can be exposed once you wear off that thin layer of zinc so you really only need to clean it and degrease it so you can put the etching primer on it and then paint it - correct?
Hey there. Well I have been doing research for months and it seems that the abrasive blasting will do the job without removing the zink…I think. 🤔.
my thought is that I will epoxy prime the chassis after blast and then chassis paint.
I am ignorant to a lot of this and am reading “ad infinite um” and it seems it’s 50-50 on how I should proceed.
always looking for guidance.
appreciate you reaching out.
 

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1988 Defender 110 3.5 V8 Twin SU carb “ROW” South Africa
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This is awesome! It'll feel so amazing to have that all be rock solid.
Thanks brother. It’s keeping my brain working. Final right swivel off. Now prop shafts and the cleaning begins.
mom going yo try first what series 2a said and if not happy will go back to blasting idea.
 

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Abrasive blasting WILL remove galv. I blast in my garage and frequently clean off metal to weld so I know this first hand. And I’ve also painted a lot of galv, both with and without success. You need to properly remove and oxidation from galv, properly clean and etch to provide adequate paint keying of surface, pretreat it and properly prime then paint. Galv quickly oxidizes/flashes with small crystals of zinc oxide and to prevent this “white rust” many galvanizers use a waxy spray to prevent (for new galv) that needs to be removed— so all this has to happen through priming one after the other to prevent zinc oxide after cleaning, then pretreat with zinc phosphate, then prime and paint. there are other methods, every one which limits time between cleaning and priming…. Keep the zinc crystals from forming or paint gets separated from metal and won’t adhere. In my experience.
 

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1988 Defender 110 3.5 V8 Twin SU carb “ROW” South Africa
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Abrasive blasting WILL remove galv. I blast in my garage and frequently clean off metal to weld so I know this first hand. And I’ve also painted a lot of galv, both with and without success. You need to properly remove and oxidation from galv, properly clean and etch to provide adequate paint keying of surface, pretreat it and properly prime then paint. Galv quickly oxidizes/flashes with small crystals of zinc oxide and to prevent this “white rust” many galvanizers use a waxy spray to prevent (for new galv) that needs to be removed— so all this has to happen through priming one after the other to prevent zinc oxide after cleaning, then pretreat with zinc phosphate, then prime and paint. there are other methods, every one which limits time between cleaning and priming…. Keep the zinc crystals from forming or paint gets separated from metal and won’t adhere. In my experience.
Wow…thank you so much for this direction. I had not read THAT far apparently.
mom on it and it was fortuitous that I posted and got this feedback. Grateful.
 
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