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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am going to try and tackle my front axle seals…the birfields are leaking and I have grease caked on the inside of my wheel, I am going to clean up and reseal the front axle…does anyone have a parts list I can use to gather what I need? Also a DIY write up? I am going to tackle this and what to take my time and do it right....appreciate your help and insight…

I found this…I assume I need everything except 4,5,11 and 16, these can be cleaned and reused as long as no damage…correct?
 

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Image didn't show but the rebuild steps are in the repair manual.

You should replace all the rubber and paper seals , hub lock washer if present, single shot grease, swivel bearings, wheel bearings, hub seal.

You will need a fishing scale to measure preload.
 

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Perfect time to convert to oil filled hubs.
edit: I interpreted above as full wet axles— rereading I see just oil filled hubs. Below addresses full wet… which if I ever went to oil filled hubs, I’d probably do…

in regards to full wet front axles…:

if you do that, you’ll want to also replace the bronze thrust bushing on back of stub axle, the needle bearings inside it and remove the seal behind the bearing (it is possible to remove thrust bush and bearing and reuse…but they are cheap and have to be removed to get to the frggin seal…and it’s also possible you’ll bugger them on removal). I run wet bearings in the rear, but in the front I just use 1 shot. It’s worked fine for me for 20 years. Also need to take out the axle shaft seal in the swivel ball. I agree with Vern that wet is superior and do run that in the rear. But the last thing I want is to drip oil from the swivel balls or axle ends, new seal or not. But I’ve debated it a lot (running full wet fronts…).

If you run wet hubs (not wet axles), replace/renew both the axle shaft seals and the swivel ball seal. Then use wet lube until it leaks then switch to one shot :).

I’m literally in the process of rebuilding a Salisbury rear and a Defender/disco front to put under my truck—and debating just this (wet or dry front…). I have all the parts— not the issue. Just debating if I want to deal with the inevitable, eventual leak…. It’s definitely a question and if you are running full wet fronts, it’s not reversible by “just add one shot if they leak” since you lo longer are using axle seals…. Everything needs to be perfect. And use Corteco swivel ball seals… 0 pitting on your swivel balls too. However Vern may be suggesting not “full wet fronts” just oil filled hubs. if That leaks you can run one shot…

would I do it? Possibly… I’ll let you know in a week, lol. Edit: I've decided to run full wet fronts. That didn't take long...

here is the stub showing bronze thrust, bearing and seal behind it… The other seal is in the back of the swivel ball housing.
 

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Sorry i did mean full wet front, which i have been running for years, and always comvert my rovers too. No leaks on my current set up after 8 years. Only time i have ever had wheel bearing issues is from greased bearings. Also i only ever run upgrade half shafts, which the inner seal doesn't fit.

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Yeah, that was my bad reading skills, 100%. Plus it was a very loquacious morning for me. No sleep last night, too much stress, almost stream of consciousness…. Go wet. Lol.
 

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Yeah, that was my bad reading skills, 100%. Plus it was a very loquacious morning for me. No sleep last night, too much stress, almost stream of consciousness…. Go wet. Lol.
Don't forget to remove the inner axle seal, and fit rtc3511 hub seals.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
WHOA! Man. Measuring pre load, wet versus dry. I guess I need to do some research. Holy moly. I really want to tackle this myself.
 

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WHOA! Man. Measuring pre load, wet versus dry. I guess I need to do some research. Holy moly. I really want to tackle this myself.
Preload will be measured dry as you do the swivel without the swivel wiper seal in place.

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Download the genuine workshop manual and parts catalog. Read it. If you have any questions at that point return.
 
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