As a daily driver.
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Yeah its worth it in the southeastern part of the US.
It pretty much doesn't work over 95F but below that it can do the job. Above that, you're just knocking off the edge. Down in the south the assistance with dehumidifying is very nice as well.
If it never gets above 90F where you live, then probably not worth the effort.
It pretty much doesn't work over 95F but below that it can do the job. Above that, you're just knocking off the edge. Down in the south the assistance with dehumidifying is very nice as well.
If it never gets above 90F where you live, then probably not worth the effort.
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I’ve daily driven the snot out of my 110 for years now. From Uncle Doug’s in Virginia to North Dakota oil fields in January one year, stayed/worked in ND for the winter (did 30+ below zero) from there it was down to South Dakota for a wind farm job. Wheeled all through the Badlands and Black Hills. From there on to Colorado and off road all the way through the mountain passes through the desert to Moab for the National Rally. Then back to SD. From there it was off to Iowa for another wind farm job for a couple of months then back to SD then in December it was off to Wisconsin for a month and a half. From there it was back down to the house in Western NC for a month then up to Toledo, OH for 3 months. That’s just one of my trips. So drive it and enjoy it, everything on the truck can be fixed or replaced.
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Thank you so much for your input . Appreciate your help
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Your truck has the cummins ? Thats so cool.
What motor is in yours? Diesel or Gas ?
Regarding your D90's bucking, I had the very same issue on a 1995 NAS D90 3.9 L about 20 years ago. I chased every single fuel and ignition possibility I could....for years. Since you say it fixes itself temporarily when you change the cap and rotor, I think this issue is in your distributor. What happens is the rotor gets very well stuck in place. So when a tech or you go to pull it off, it damages the bottom of the distributor shaft and it's stay (the clip on the bottom). So your distributor shaft has too much play in the up and down direction. You can probably confirm this with the rotor off. My D90 would buck and shut down at pretty much the same RPM......for years. I suspect a new or different distributor will fix your bucking. But....from now on, use anti-seize inside the female flange on the bottom of the rotor every time you install a new rotor. In this way, it will come off more easily. (Or you have to use channel locks to crush the old rotor in place in order to get it off.) I hope this fixes the issue. Please report back.
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Thank you so much for the tip . I will have this looked at ! Wonderful !
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1,857 Posts
I DD my 300tdi 110 for 2+ years (sold my D3 during the pandemic as it just sat). I also DD'ed my previous 300tdi 90. Regarding Aircon, Trevor put a MoD kit in mine that I'm very happy with. I love driving it, my kids love it, I will never get stuck and I love how much of a workhorse it is. I now need new springs from hauling so much stuff to a new property I recently bought.
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5,049 Posts
200Tdi
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You're a Maryland guy. Who would you recommend as far as a good NAS Defender michanic in the Baltimore area? Maybe I need to find a GOOD reputable old school Defender Michanic
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Years ago I had the exact same “bucking” problem! Would nearly give me a heart attack. I think it ended up being a bad connection to a relay. Drive for a bit, then see if any of your relays are really hot. If there’s a weak connection from plug to relay a lot of heat can build up. I discovered it by hearing a relay clicking when it was bucking. Now that I think about it, the other thing it might of been was the ignition switch losing contact momentarily. That’s the 4 prong switch on the back of key. I seem to recall replacing that around the same time my problem went away. Also, I spray down all electrical connections under the hood with WD40. I think it helps keep the moisture related demons away. I do it at every oil change. My trucks a daily driver. 200k+ miles. I’ve had it a long time.
I installed AC in my 94 3.9 90 last year. I used a NAS 97 kit that I retrofitted with new Vintage Air parts, wiring etc. Will freeze me out of the truck. There’s absolutely no going back once you’ve installed. I even use it in the winter as an intermittent dehumidifier. On the lowest setting, compressor occasionally running, it will dry out all of the condensation on the glass inside on the truck in minutes.
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4 prong switch on the back of the Key? Stearing column ?
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Have you had good luck with your 3.9 ? I'm at 128,000 miles.
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You likely have an ignition problem. The tps typically presents as a consistent problem rather than random. Another possibility is exhaust clogged with cat honeycomb but again constant problem once it happens.
As said find someone competent to replace your distributor, cap, rotor, amplifier, and coil.
Use only components from this company. Do not allow shop to supply parts. If you are unsure what to order message me and I’ll help you. This company, Powersparks is know to supply the highest quality ignition components for your engine. @ this point in your trucks life these should be considered maintenance items.
simonbbc.com
Many on this site have driven Rover v8’s coast to coast. I drove one 7k miles last summer in a 4 week period, I only put gas in it. They are extremely reliable if a competent mechanic using quality components sets it up.
As said find someone competent to replace your distributor, cap, rotor, amplifier, and coil.
Use only components from this company. Do not allow shop to supply parts. If you are unsure what to order message me and I’ll help you. This company, Powersparks is know to supply the highest quality ignition components for your engine. @ this point in your trucks life these should be considered maintenance items.
Powerspark Ignition - Classic Car Ignition Problems
Modern Electronic Ignition for Classic Cars. Supplying Classic Car Parts, Fuel Ignition Coils, HT Leads and much more.
simonbbc.com
Many on this site have driven Rover v8’s coast to coast. I drove one 7k miles last summer in a 4 week period, I only put gas in it. They are extremely reliable if a competent mechanic using quality components sets it up.
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Unfortunately I have no personal experience with any of the Rover Shops in the area. Over the years I've been able to do the required work to the truck with the help of this forum and other enthusiasts in some cases. I know people that have had good and bad experiences with EuroCars in HV, but no personal Experience. I know a local enthusiast in Columbia that swears by Independent Land Rover in Bethesda, and like I mentioned in a PM, I recently met the owner of Mid-Atlantic Rovers in Columbia and he seems like a good guy, but again, no personal Experience.
But I echo others comments, your issue sounds ignition related, and replacing the base components with the best known quality components you can get ahold of should be the first step..
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