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1988 LR90, 300tdi/R380 LT230
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460 Posts
Miami, FL...On my MoD system in the LR90. It's cooling very well at night with the outside temperature at 89F.
In the 98 f, 80-95%humidity daytime it keeps the interior JUST a bit cooler than sweating.
The windows can stay up just fine even sitting in traffic.
I'm going to take it to the AC shop that made the hoses and completed the install in Ft.Laud to check and make sure it's got the right amount of freon and pressure. It's basically been on a shakedown test for the last 1500 miles driven.
The roof rack is off getting cleaned up and painted, so when that goes back up it will cut some of the direct sunlight on the roof which will help.
I do have quite a bit of Dynamat, Noicco and Carpet/Rubber mats in the 90 so that helps very much. I commented to someone just a couple of days ago that I can have a perfectly fine conversation between myself and my kids sitting in the forward facing back seats while driving at speed.

I'd like another 5 degrees of cooling from the system if possible. I read on the forum of someone covering the unit that is inside the engine bay and insulating that unit from the heat of the engine and that is definitely a possibility.

Ozzie
 

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45 Posts
I recently finished installing the MoD ac system and Puma style dash to my 93 200tdi 90. Throughout the whole install I was aware that insulation would play a great part in keeping things cooler here in the excessive Palm Springs heat, 115 f and up is a regular thing here, winters however are quite laughable with a notably cold day being in the 40's! Overall it was a very straightforward installation and I also used turbo wrap on my RHD trucks downpipe and a turbo jacket, can't hurt right.
The system works really well for me, I am using the two eyeball vents plus a further two vents blowing into the footwells along with the slightly modified factory windscreen vents.
Waiting for triple A tow trucks has never been more pleasant, though I have not had to need to use the heater yet other than to confirm that it works!
 

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1985 Ninety R2.8
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195 Posts
At this exact moment, I’m not impressed with my MoD unit at all.

Just had it vacuumed and recharged.

It takes 10 degrees farenheit off the input/ambient temperature (91 degrees at the footwell becomes 81 degrees at the vent).

I’ve double and triple checked that there is no coolant leaking through the system too.

And now the condenser fan remains on for at least 10 minutes after I shut the truck off.

Not super thrilled with it.
 

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391 Posts
Personally, I would construct a fresh air flap. Connect it to the fan speed cable so that you can open and close it. That solves the winter issue. I have no idea why they don't do this with the original design.
Can even use the choke puller and cable for this if need be. My choke system is not being used at all but the puller and cable are there. Wonder who else has theirs in and not using it.
 

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Go Mundo Maya!
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570 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
At this exact moment, I’m not impressed with my MoD unit at all.

Just had it vacuumed and recharged.

It takes 10 degrees farenheit off the input/ambient temperature (91 degrees at the footwell becomes 81 degrees at the vent).

I’ve double and triple checked that there is no coolant leaking through the system too.

And now the condenser fan remains on for at least 10 minutes after I shut the truck off.

Not super thrilled with it.
Has the vendor provided any solutions ?
 

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1995 300tdi ROW
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224 Posts
Their YouTube Video shows them not using the electric fan. They kept the stock radiator fan.
You NEED the fan if you're not moving the AC will be **** without it.

 

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1985 Ninety R2.8
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195 Posts
I think I figured out one of my issues.

I checked the vent temperature again today. After 1-2 minutes I was super excited because the vents were showing about 22 degrees Fahrenheit cooler then the footwell/ambient… but after about 5 minutes it went back 10 degrees difference (the cold air warmed up!)

I checked the coolant control valve for the 4th time (not leaking).

BUT, I discovered the one way valve on the outflow water line for the heater core had a healthy leak. It was allowing retrograde flow of hot coolant into the heater… warming the air up.

I just wanted to update, I’m very hopeful I will get some much better performance once I get the one way valve sorted out.

I’ll let you know what the vendor recommends.
 

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1985 Ninety R2.8
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195 Posts
I’d be incredibly happy with 40s-50s at the vent!

I heard back from MoD first thing this morning. Very fast response.

They are sending out a new one way valve, and a new relay (for the fan staying on after the truck is shut off).
 

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12,200 Posts
I worked on a 110 that had the MOD setup.
Any HVAC add-on for the ROW Defender will have pros and cons.
The under dash AC units take up a lot of space and in very warm temperatures will put out colder air than the MOD unit I observed, but the vehicle was in for other work and there is no assurance that the MOD install was done properly and fully charged with refrigerant.
The thing I didn't like about the MOD unit is that it uses the same under dash chamber as the heater uses in the original configuration. This chamber gets exposed to a lot of under hood heat in the summer and takes away from the AC efficiency.
It worked pretty well before everything got warmed up.
As the under hood temperature went up the AC output temperature went up proportionately.
Unfortunately it only took the edge off and didn't really cool down as well as a good working under dash unit.
As mentioned earlier, don't know if the MOD unit was working properly that I observed, but it was not effective at high temperatures.
To be fair the under dash units will also struggle when it is 100 deg F outside, but our unit puts out much colder air after the engine and under hood area is hot.
Didn't even try the heat because it was in the hot Virginia summer when this ROW 110 was here.
 

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1985 Ninety R2.8
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195 Posts
This morning I removed the heater lines from the unit, and it’s blowing as cold as I would expect now. The poorer performance was definitely related to a faulty one-way valve.

Ambient temp of 71 degrees and the temp at the vent got to 49.6 degrees… so taking about 20 degrees off (which I am happy with).

My observation though is that you have to be travelling at speed to get this temp. If you are just sat idling (with the condenser fan running), it will only take 10ish degrees off ambient.

If it is 90 degrees out I’ll expect 70 degree output at the vent… if it’s 110 degrees out, I’ll take Range Rover Classic😉

I’m happy with it again. I could make the cabin a lot easier for it to cool by tinting the glass and adding some insulation and a headliner… but I’ll leave those to the next owner.




 

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Go Mundo Maya!
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570 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
This morning I removed the heater lines from the unit, and it’s blowing as cold as I would expect now. The poorer performance was definitely related to a faulty one-way valve.

Ambient temp of 71 degrees and the temp at the vent got to 49.6 degrees… so taking about 20 degrees off (which I am happy with).

My observation though is that you have to be travelling at speed to get this temp. If you are just sat idling (with the condenser fan running), it will only take 10ish degrees off ambient.

If it is 90 degrees out I’ll expect 70 degree output at the vent… if it’s 110 degrees out, I’ll take Range Rover Classic😉

I’m happy with it again. I could make the cabin a lot easier for it to cool by tinting the glass and adding some insulation and a headliner… but I’ll leave those to the next owner.




View attachment 478895
Good update. Enjoy!
 
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