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Discussion Starter · #901 · (Edited)
I noticed the M51 Range Rover (P38 2.5), which shares the clutch housing with the M52 Defender, has a clutch pipe that goes up and over from the slave cylinder on the right hand side to the left side. So that's helpful for the LHD truck. The bracket is NLA, but I found one with the pipe on eBay UK (I'll make a new pipe in stainless steel). I figured out the bracket mounts on the lower starter bolt and the flange is too wide on the Denso starter I have from the M54. So it needs a starter with a narrow flange like this Bosch starter for an M50. The P38 M51 starter would work of course, but it doesn't have a terminal 30h on it (so you'd need to crimp a larger ring terminal onto that wire to connect it to the field terminal.)

Now I'll just need to figure out the fittings for the hose to the bulkhead pipe. The P38 hose has 12mm x 1.0 fittings on each end. The NAS Defender hose has 7/16-20 fittings. I'll have to check the length required as well when I get it fitted to the truck to see if a stock hose would be possible. If not, then I'll have a custom hose with the M12 fitting on one end and 7/16-20 on the other.



 

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Discussion Starter · #902 ·
Here's a small update. I have such limited time for the project with school, work, and homework.

I rebuilt the starter. It's pretty similar to the V8 one pictured in the 93 NAS workshop manual. Of course it's so simple instructions aren't really necessary. Land Rover's instructions call for three different kinds of grease, that aren't readily available to consumers. I used synthetic moly grease on the planetary gears and bearings, and regular Lucas green on the pivot lever. After I assembled it I tested it and it works good. :) I would have bought a new one, but this older style without the threaded flanges is not available from Bosch anymore. (The only new replacements I found are made in China.)







 

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Discussion Starter · #903 · (Edited)
I’m contemplating omitting the 3/2 way fuel valve. It is optional to upgrade fuel system evaporative emissions components when swapping the engine, even in California according to CARB documents. I was looking into what the valve does and I’m not sure how much it would lower evaporative emissions.

When the engine is started the valve opens and the fuel system operates as a return system. Then 20 seconds afterwards it closes and it becomes a returnless system. In theory that prevents fuel being sent back to the tank after it becomes heated in the rail at the engine and therefore reduces evaporative emissions. However, fuel stays in the lines waiting to be used by the engine and doesn’t have a chance to circulate back through the system which reduces the temperature. I think the fuel would therefore be a higher temperature at the rail which would increase evaporative emissions. Vapor lock also becomes a problem as trapped air can’t be freed at the tank. It can only exit via the injectors.

Edit: I better install the valve just in case there are specific settings for the engine in the ECU. There isn't a stock tune from BMW available for the S52 that doesn't have the 3/2 way valve (there is only the M52 tune for the 1997 528i). I don't want to mess with any custom tuning. At least the valve goes in front of the filter so fuel is still continually filtered. It just returns at the valve instead of going into the engine compartment. I guess that's a good thing. I was reading that a lot of returnless setups have the filter in the tank. So this one is a hybrid setup. Maybe it gets all of the advantages without the disadvantages. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #905 ·
This project is not done yet? Eight years and counting...when do you expect to finish this project. :)
Well I'm not getting paid to work on my own project, and with so little time to work on it... it's takes a lot of time. It used to bug me, but it doesn't much anymore. Although I still do have a goal to finish it this summer.

I was back in school this past year so I took a pause from the project since last year. When I was younger I didn't take school quite as seriously as I should have so I had some fixing to do before I can go to grad school. I managed to earn straight As for the entire school year which was an accomplishment for me. I'm sure that comes easy for a lot of people, because it's mostly just commitment. Now I have to commit to wrapping up this build, even if it's mostly a distraction...
 

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As a fellow NAS owner and BMW enthusiast this is probably my favorite build thread. The fact that its taken 8 years and the slow steady drip of updates only adds to the appeal. I do look forward to seeing the completed project.
The payoff will be when he completes the project and recreates these photos of the fresh faced young man that embarked on this build. The "before and after" of owner and truck after 8+ years should be good



 

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Discussion Starter · #908 ·
Update time. :) I finished the ABS brake pipes. Hopefully they don't leak (fingers crossed). I had some troubles with the Eastwood flaring tool I posted in the Misc chit chat forum. Making the brake pipes was very complicated and tedious. I'll post my measurements later in case it helps anyone. I prototyped them out of Copper Nickel first because it's easy to bend, then I made them in stainless.

I decided to route the pipes up on the bulkhead like they are on a NAS & 2.8i instead of below the lip like on a Td5 & Puma (new holes would have needed to be drilled for the clips and I may need to put wiring through the hole in the center.)

I put male ends on the pipes that go to the rear and joined them with a union because that's what Land Rover did. I don't know why they did it like that instead of putting a female fitting on one end. I didn't want to think about it too hard so I did the same thing.

I decided to go with all Puma hoses so I had to make the proper cutout in the front hose brackets on the chassis. That was a lot of filing. I also made a cutout for the abs sensor. I figured out an easy way to attach the tension clip for the hose is to hold a small piece of wood against it and lightly tap on it with a small mallet.

I'm including a photo of the rear hose bracket because it wasn't immediately obvious how it mounts. The tab goes in the existing hole and you just need to drill a hole below it for a 5 mm screw. The parts catalogue shows a 6 mm screw, but I think that's for the larger hole on the bottom. I'm not sure what is suppose to attach there. Maybe the ABS sensor wires? But then I would think a plastic clip would go in there.

Another tip: I found new generic, but genuine Wabco ABS sensors for much less than the Land Rover specific ones. The only differences I can tell are lack of corrugated sleeving and missing the grommets & clips. I'll add those myself.











 

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Discussion Starter · #909 ·
I finished the clutch pipes today and I made a bracket for the other side of the hose. I routed the bell housing pipe to the opposite side of the bracket compared to the P38 so that the hose comes down instead of going up. I put an M12 x 1.0 bubble fitting on the end of the pipe from the master cylinder so I could use the standard P38 clutch hose (that's an expensive hose, but at least it's an off-the-shelf item.)

As long as nothing leaks I'm done making hard lines. I'd love to do stainless fuel lines too, but then I'd need to purchase a bunch more tools. I think the nylon lines will be okay for now.

I know most of you probably want to see the engine. That's next!





 

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Discussion Starter · #910 · (Edited)
I'm measuring the clearances for the main bearings. I started out trying to use the dial bore gage and micrometer, but I found it too complicated, so I decided to use the plastigage instead. That's what BMW's instructions say to use anyways.

They look good to me! Clearance range is suppose to be 0.020 mm to 0.058 mm.

Number 1



Number 2



Number 3



Number 4



Number 5



Number 6

This one is the least tight, but the mark is still wider than the .051 mm bar so it must be within spec.



Number 7

 

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Discussion Starter · #911 ·
I was thinking my clearances look a little loose, but it looks like BMW's bearing clearance specs are a little tight in general according to this page: Official S65 Bearing Specification/Clearance Wiki (includes S52 specs)

Mahle recommends 0.00075" to 0.001" clearance for each inch of journal shaft. So for the 60mm crankshaft journals that would be 0.045 mm to 0.060 mm clearance. That's on the high side of BMW's recommendation. Mine appear to be slightly under that mostly (maybe about 0.035 mm) except for number 6 which looks about 0.045 mm. Of course all I'm after is a general idea to know I can use the standard bearings and don't need to order other sizes. I think these are fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #914 ·
ABS is still blowing my mind. I would pay good money for an ABS conversion. Nice work!
Thanks! I'll post a separate DIY thread in the tech forum in case it helps anyone. I think it's really not that complicated. Basically need ABS axles with sensors, the pump and ECU, the new pipes, and wired to a Td5 era warning light panel. For traction control you need a 5 volt throttle position signal. So for a V8 Defender I think it would need to be changed to a Thor setup with Bosch Motronic from a Disco 2 or late P38.
 

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Discussion Starter · #915 ·
I got the crankshaft installed with new oiled screws and LM 48 Installation Paste on the bearings and journal surfaces. I checked the end float. It's perfect. 0.08 mm. That's the minimum for the range.
 

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Thanks! I'll post a separate DIY thread in the tech forum in case it helps anyone. I think it's really not that complicated. Basically need ABS axles with sensors, the pump and ECU, the new pipes, and wired to a Td5 era warning light panel. For traction control you need a 5 volt throttle position signal. So for a V8 Defender I think it would need to be changed to a Thor setup with Bosch Motronic from a Disco 2 or late P38.
YES! That would be awesome and super helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #917 ·
I installed the pistons. I think the hardest part was installing the wire locks on the wrist pins. My thumbs are still a little sore lol. I checked the clearances of the connecting rod bearings. They're about the same as the main bearings. I made sure to clock the piston ring openings about 120 degrees from each other.

Next is the oil pump and pan. Then the cylinder head. I ordered a new oil check valve from the BMW dealer and new dowels because some of them got messed up at the machine shop when they removed them. The old check valve is probably fine, but just in case, it would be a pain to pull the head to replace it later.







 

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Discussion Starter · #919 ·
I rebuilt the oil pump. There isn't much to it. The challenging part was holding the piston down while putting the snap ring on. The new spring has quite a bit of force. I made sure to oil everything and apply the installation paste. The new pickup tube is the reinforced Z3 version.





I safety wired the sprocket nut so it won't come off. It probably wouldn't, but I've read it sometimes can.



Today's project is transferring the valve springs to the replacement cylinder head and installing the valves and valve stem seals.

 

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Discussion Starter · #920 ·
Look at those shiny new valves. :)

I got the valves, valve stem seals, and valve springs installed. It was fun installing the valve stem seals. They're so little and cute. The tool I got to push them down fits them perfect.

Now the head is ready to go on the block.







 
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